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ekuth said:Mwhahahaha!
Found it. Here's a FANTASTIC reference site, guys:
http://www.wegottafindearth.com/
This guy has pics, reference photos... you name it! :twisted:
ekuth said:I did post a link to a vid of the eye electronics in action a few posts above- did you get to see it?
ekuth said:Hehe... thanks. I'm pretty proud of it. :-D
Total cost was around $25 USD. Part of that is my fault, I bought a bunch of the parts at Radio Shack because I didn't want to wait.
And, of course, I ended up going to an actual electronics shop anyway... :roll:
If you bought everything either from an actual shop (Radio Shack doesn't carry much anymore and what they do have has a 200 -300 % markup) or from an online supplier, you'd probably be looking at around $10-15 USD.
Speed is not adjustable (well, it sort of is...) but that could easily be rectified by adding a variable control pot (rherostat) in the circuit at the correct point. Trouble is, most of them are HUGE, so...
My lights actually run slower than the original guy's- instead of using 180 Kohm resistors for the 555 timer chip I used 220 Kohm. It slows down the sequence to a more correct level. I think mine is pretty close to the original shows, maybe a little bit faster. If you used 300 Kohm resistors it would be even a tad slower...
If I lost you there, you'll understand once you actually start building the thing.
BTW, I've just about completed the mouthpiece, but it seems to be missing a part... J11? This is the part with all the tabs for attaching to the inside of the helmet. Doesn't seem to be on the PDF I got (1 page of the grill parts).
I can make one by tracing, but I thought I'd let you know. :-D
ekuth said:The helm is almost done!
So, whatcha guys think? :-D
BazookaJo said:Just 1 question Ekuth, could the upper plate have been 'tilted'up at the front to make it more flush with the top of the eye apperture, or is the helmet limiting the positioning?
Now all we need a cheap substitute for a star filter :grin:
ekuth said:I'm pretty sure I understand what you're asking- no, the helmet did not limit where I positioned the eye electronics. I had plenty of room to play with on that. Basically, I put it where I did for two reasons:
One, that's about where the eye is on the studio models
Two, wearability. I wanted the eye to be above the wearers line of sight to avoid glare from the electronics.
Unfortunately, the star filter is not something that we can apply here- star filters are lenses that go on the end of a camera to give the effect. I'm still debating creating a clear cover to go over the LED's for a slightly more diffused look.
I'll post some shots later once I finish the modding the eyepiece parts you sent us to work with what I have so far. Piece V2 is what I really, really needed, so THANK YOU! :-D
What about using a transparence sheet for the printer and print dark red.ekuth said:I'm pretty sure I understand what you're asking- no, the helmet did not limit where I positioned the eye electronics. I had plenty of room to play with on that. Basically, I put it where I did for two reasons:
One, that's about where the eye is on the studio models
Two, wearability. I wanted the eye to be above the wearers line of sight to avoid glare from the electronics.
Unfortunately, the star filter is not something that we can apply here- star filters are lenses that go on the end of a camera to give the effect. I'm still debating creating a clear cover to go over the LED's for a slightly more diffused look.
I'll post some shots later once I finish the modding the eyepiece parts you sent us to work with what I have so far. Piece V2 is what I really, really needed, so THANK YOU! :-D
Red said:What about using a transparence sheet for the printer and print dark red.
Could go with two layers thick and it should give close to the effect that you want with the bright LED’S
As for the line of sight the acttors had to look out though the little holes above the red eye.
This information came from the special features of the Universal DVD Collector's box set.