Cylon helmet Ceta builders required...

[ekuth]

Fantastic! Now we need the "woosh woosh" sound for the eye...

 

[ekuth]

Mwhahahaha!

Found it. Here's a FANTASTIC reference site, guys:

http://www.wegottafindearth.com/

This guy has pics, reference photos... you name it! :twisted:

 

[BazookaJo]

Mwhahahaha!

Found it. Here's a FANTASTIC reference site, guys:

http://www.wegottafindearth.com/

This guy has pics, reference photos... you name it! :twisted:

Well done Centurian 8) Great stuff!! I can't wat to see the tut for this. Are you going to try get one of those Star filters the site recommends?

As for the video - I'd just sign up with photobucket. You can post video clips on there and then simply post the links to the clips on here - easy peasy

As for the eye peice I'll try my best to finish it this weekend - I'm fairly close now. Just have a go at the mouth peice in the meantime - that will keep you busy :-D

BTW I'd think twice about putting the 'warble' sound in your helmet if you're going to wear it for more than 1 or 2 minutes at a time - apparently the sound ringing in the helmet constantly has been known to drive some people quite mad :razz: BUT if you could rig it up to do a cycle of flashing with sound for say 10 seconds with a 'By Your Command' thrown in for good measure that would be cool 8)

P.S. WGFE is indeed a great site - I will indeed be using it as one of my reference points for further Cylon parts :twisted:

Regards

Paul.

 

[ekuth]

I did post a link to a vid of the eye electronics in action a few posts above- did you get to see it?

 

[BazookaJo]

I did post a link to a vid of the eye electronics in action a few posts above- did you get to see it?

Ekuth - U DA MAN!

I can't believe you knocked it up in that space of time - it's excellent!!

So how much did it cost you in total (in money, not blood sweat and tears:grin: )? Also, can you adjust the speed?

Anyway, eye socket could/should be done by tomorrow so we could be in serious business :twisted:

Best regards

Paul.

 

[ekuth]

Hehe... thanks. I'm pretty proud of it. :-D

Total cost was around $25 USD. Part of that is my fault, I bought a bunch of the parts at Radio Shack because I didn't want to wait.

And, of course, I ended up going to an actual electronics shop anyway... :roll:

If you bought everything either from an actual shop (Radio Shack doesn't carry much anymore and what they do have has a 200 -300 % markup) or from an online supplier, you'd probably be looking at around $10-15 USD.

Speed is not adjustable (well, it sort of is...) but that could easily be rectified by adding a variable control pot (rherostat) in the circuit at the correct point. Trouble is, most of them are HUGE, so...

My lights actually run slower than the original guy's- instead of using 180 Kohm resistors for the 555 timer chip I used 220 Kohm. It slows down the sequence to a more correct level. I think mine is pretty close to the original shows, maybe a little bit faster. If you used 300 Kohm resistors it would be even a tad slower...

If I lost you there, you'll understand once you actually start building the thing.

BTW, I've just about completed the mouthpiece, but it seems to be missing a part... J11? This is the part with all the tabs for attaching to the inside of the helmet. Doesn't seem to be on the PDF I got (1 page of the grill parts).
I can make one by tracing, but I thought I'd let you know. :-D

 

[BazookaJo]

Hehe... thanks. I'm pretty proud of it. :-D

Total cost was around $25 USD. Part of that is my fault, I bought a bunch of the parts at Radio Shack because I didn't want to wait.

And, of course, I ended up going to an actual electronics shop anyway... :roll:

If you bought everything either from an actual shop (Radio Shack doesn't carry much anymore and what they do have has a 200 -300 % markup) or from an online supplier, you'd probably be looking at around $10-15 USD.

Speed is not adjustable (well, it sort of is...) but that could easily be rectified by adding a variable control pot (rherostat) in the circuit at the correct point. Trouble is, most of them are HUGE, so...

My lights actually run slower than the original guy's- instead of using 180 Kohm resistors for the 555 timer chip I used 220 Kohm. It slows down the sequence to a more correct level. I think mine is pretty close to the original shows, maybe a little bit faster. If you used 300 Kohm resistors it would be even a tad slower...

If I lost you there, you'll understand once you actually start building the thing.

BTW, I've just about completed the mouthpiece, but it seems to be missing a part... J11? This is the part with all the tabs for attaching to the inside of the helmet. Doesn't seem to be on the PDF I got (1 page of the grill parts).
I can make one by tracing, but I thought I'd let you know. :-D

15 bucks:shock: That's incredible - With the 300 Kohm it would probably be spot on!

I am Sooo tempted to have a go when I get a bit of spare time - so I beg you be very descriptive when you do the tutorial - I live in the UK, and you can bet your @ss any codes for parts will be useless (much like the staff in my local Maplins electronics shop).

As for J11 it should be hiding in a file called 'Formers-StandardCard'. I tried to organise the plans by creating a file for each media type i.e. all the mirror card parts in 1 file, all the black gloss parts in another etc. though this might not be quite as helpful as I had hoped.

Maybe when the instructions are finished and get an index it might make more sense:roll: .

Anyway, I went a little mad today and bought a voice changer online to see if you could get something passable for a cylon voice on a shoestring.
http://www.adventurersemporium.co.uk/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=188
It's probably going to be total pants, but my bro can do a reasonably good cylon impression without any equipment, so maybe one of the settings can just take it to the next level.

If I get anything good I'll post samples of my bro 'with' and 'without' the voice changer, so prepare for a chuckle :grin:.

Of course if you've got $500 to torch you could go for the read deal http://www.hyperdynelabs.com/products_elec_vortexVoice.php :-o

Anyway after 11 o-clock here in UK so off to bed - tomorrow I finish the eye.

Regards

Paul.

 

[Dnlgtr]

Was anybody able to either open or save this file??
http://members.fortunecity.com/wavjunky/swl-c/cylon.wav.
I click on it & get a Denial.jpg. I 'right-click--save as' & get an error message "Cannot be played--contains unexpected data"when RealPlayer trys to open it.
winMedia states:"File format not supported"
Alsong states; "encountered error"

I downloaded the link 5 times & get errors every time!!

Can anyone help??

Oh yea, I go to this page & click on links & get Google search pages ONLY!
http://members.fortunecity.com/wavjunky/swl_cde.html

 

[ekuth]

The helm is almost done!

Just a little work on the bottom edge to do, and finish the eyepiece.
I'll have to mod whatever Bazookajo sends us to fit with my electronics, which I went ahead and mounted in the helm. It looks SWEET, if I do say so myself.

New vids of the helm in action:

The first shows a frontal view, the second a side view. There's some glare from my monitor on the helm in the second vid...

http://www.dropshots.com/day.php?userid=301190&cdate=20070602&ctime=090952

And some static shots:

First is a front view of the helm:

View attachment 11937

Side view:

View attachment 11938

Inside of the helm. The circuitboard fits perfectly in the crest of the mohawk and acts as a former!

View attachment 11939

Closer view of the underside of the circuitboard and the back of the eye electronics piece. I took and made an surround for the LED's out of scrap gunmetal cardstock I had left over from the mouthpiece. Simple semi-circular piece cut to the radius of the helm eye opening. One for the top, one for the bottom with side tabs and a backing of extra gold cardstock to give rear reflection. The LED leads (ribbon cable) feed out the back as you can see. The ribbon cable, circuitboard and wires to the battery I hotglued into the mohawk.

View attachment 11940

A simple slide switch goes on the bottom of the end of the mohawk; along with the 9 volt battery that powers the whole thing. Again, secured with hotglue. Still lots of room left to add the voicebox circuit, which I'll pick up from Radio Shack and run to a secondary switch by the first.

View attachment 11941

So, whatcha guys think? :-D

 

[Amazyah]

That is pretty dang slick!

A really cool build!

Very nice work, ekuth!

Russell

 

[B-Manic]

I think that is some mighty fine work. 8)

 

[BazookaJo]

The helm is almost done!

So, whatcha guys think? :-D

All I can say is that must be the best $25 cylon helmet ever made - truly awesome. Only glad I could have been a part of it.

Just 1 question Ekuth, could the upper plate have been 'tilted'up at the front to make it more flush with the top of the eye apperture, or is the helmet limiting the positioning?

Now all we need a cheap substitute for a star filter :grin:

Again - truly magnificent!

Regards

Paul.

 

[MOS95B]

Holy cool!!!

Great work, designer and builder!!!

 

[BazookaJo]

Okay Ekuth and friends - Cylon eye socket on it's way.

Let me know how you get on.

Regards

Paul.

 

[ekuth]

Just 1 question Ekuth, could the upper plate have been 'tilted'up at the front to make it more flush with the top of the eye apperture, or is the helmet limiting the positioning?

Now all we need a cheap substitute for a star filter :grin:

I'm pretty sure I understand what you're asking- no, the helmet did not limit where I positioned the eye electronics. I had plenty of room to play with on that. Basically, I put it where I did for two reasons:

One, that's about where the eye is on the studio models
Two, wearability. I wanted the eye to be above the wearers line of sight to avoid glare from the electronics.

Unfortunately, the star filter is not something that we can apply here- star filters are lenses that go on the end of a camera to give the effect. I'm still debating creating a clear cover to go over the LED's for a slightly more diffused look.

I'll post some shots later once I finish the modding the eyepiece parts you sent us to work with what I have so far. Piece V2 is what I really, really needed, so THANK YOU! :-D

 

[Bowdenja]

That is just Too Cool!

 

[BazookaJo]

I'm pretty sure I understand what you're asking- no, the helmet did not limit where I positioned the eye electronics. I had plenty of room to play with on that. Basically, I put it where I did for two reasons:

One, that's about where the eye is on the studio models
Two, wearability. I wanted the eye to be above the wearers line of sight to avoid glare from the electronics.

Unfortunately, the star filter is not something that we can apply here- star filters are lenses that go on the end of a camera to give the effect. I'm still debating creating a clear cover to go over the LED's for a slightly more diffused look.

I'll post some shots later once I finish the modding the eyepiece parts you sent us to work with what I have so far. Piece V2 is what I really, really needed, so THANK YOU! :-D

Ah - just had a look at WeGottaFindEarth - you are indeed correct sir - the eye apperture is a little bit straighter than I have it ATM - oops!

You could amend this peice (A3) and stick a replacement over the top of the original to bring the helmet flush with your eye. Now need to think how much work it would be to change this prior to public release - hmmm......

As for the Star Filter - I was a bit confused. I'd followed the link from the pumpkin page and thought it was the wrong site. But I think the diffuser would be a neat touch - especially if it could partially obsure the LEDs themselves.

Back to you :grin:

Best Regards

Paul.

 

[Red]

Red lens

I'm pretty sure I understand what you're asking- no, the helmet did not limit where I positioned the eye electronics. I had plenty of room to play with on that. Basically, I put it where I did for two reasons:

One, that's about where the eye is on the studio models
Two, wearability. I wanted the eye to be above the wearers line of sight to avoid glare from the electronics.

Unfortunately, the star filter is not something that we can apply here- star filters are lenses that go on the end of a camera to give the effect. I'm still debating creating a clear cover to go over the LED's for a slightly more diffused look.

I'll post some shots later once I finish the modding the eyepiece parts you sent us to work with what I have so far. Piece V2 is what I really, really needed, so THANK YOU! :-D

What about using a transparence sheet for the printer and print dark red.
Could go with two layers thick and it should give close to the effect that you want with the bright LED’S
As for the line of sight the acttors had to look out though the little holes above the red eye.
This information came from the special features of the Universal DVD Collector's box set.

 

[ekuth]

True, but unfortunately the helmet is too small, or my head is too big to put the eyeholes there... LOL.

I modified the eye parts Bazookajo sent us to fit what I had done- it leaves a small opening for vision. With the helmet on and the electronics going, you can barely see the person's eyes. I'm pretty happy with it.

It's a tight fit, though- if I were to do it again, I'd probably scale the model up by about 10 to 20%.

I also found it necessary to add another row on the bottom of the mouthpiece grille- it didn't quite reach the bottom edge of the helm.

Admittedly, my version is heavily modified due to the addition of the electronics, but I have to take my hat off to Bazookajo.

This model is VERY well designed and fairly easy to build, given the amount of compound curves it has.

Kudos!

Now get to work on the neck and shoulder piece, will you? :-D

Seriously. I'd love to see this evolve into a full suit.

 

[B-Manic]

You can get different colours and shades of gel sheets at theatre supply stores. They are placed in frames in front of stage lights.

http://www.bulbamerica.com/products/16181

What about using a transparence sheet for the printer and print dark red.
Could go with two layers thick and it should give close to the effect that you want with the bright LED’S
As for the line of sight the acttors had to look out though the little holes above the red eye.
This information came from the special features of the Universal DVD Collector's box set.