2001 ASO USSC Discovery One

Discussion in 'Science Fiction & Fantasy' started by DanBKing, May 15, 2012.

  1. Revell-Fan

    Revell-Fan Co-Administrator Administrator

    WOOOW!!! Sorry if it eluded me, but did you enlarge the pattern or is it the original size provided by UHU?
  2. DanBKing

    DanBKing Active Member

    Original size ........... :cool:
  3. Cforrest900

    Cforrest900 Member

    First of all, this build is incredible. Props to you for the amazing work you've showcased in this thread. I've tried (twice now) to build this model, but I have issues with the cone-shaped part that joins onto the back of the sphere not fitting. Any ideas as to what's going wrong?
  4. DanBKing

    DanBKing Active Member

    In what way is it not fitting ?
  5. zathros

    zathros SENIOR Administrator

    Posting pics can get a lot of help, some good, some not, but you'll probably get the right answer. :)
  6. Cforrest900

    Cforrest900 Member

    the wide end of the ring is far too small to fit over the hole in the back of the pressure sphere
  7. DanBKing

    DanBKing Active Member

    Mmmmm... I can think of only two reasons why that is happening:
    1. The flange ring is assembled incorrectly and is not 'flared' enough, and/or,
    2. The command sphere is assembled incorrectly and the shape is incorrect at the rear.
    Master UHU's tolerances are very tight on his models, and as I have found out, especially on the Discovery!

    As I showed a little earlier in the thread, adding a former ring inside the flange seems to of worked for me.
    Admittedly, I have not fitted the sphere to the flange on my model yet, so I don't know if it is going to turn out ok or not!
    But the test fit is looking promising....
  8. DanBKing

    DanBKing Active Member

    A small update .......

    I have at last worked out in my head, how I am going to run the wiring for the cockpit lighting.
    As I have mentioned, I am going to put Discovery in a display case, with LED's to light up the model, (without creating shadows o_O,) and to have the model suspended so as to depict it floating in space.
    And the suspending part of the plan, is where I had to make decisions on how I was going to run power to the LED's in the cockpit.
    At first I thought of a battery pack housed in the engine module with a remote switch, triggered by a small remote control key fob.
    The remote switch system would save on having to run wiring external to the model to an external power source.
    But, the receiver circuit, which would also be housed in the engine module, would be constantly powered up waiting for a signal from the transmitter. After a few calculations, I worked out that the drain on the battery pack would cause me to have to change battery packs more times than I would switch the cockpit lighting on! So, I scrapped that idea.

    What I have decided to do is suspend the model from the top of the display case using very fine fishing line. As previously shown, the spine of my model has a metal tube instead of a wooden dowel. I can use that to my advantage to run wiring out of sight.
    As previously stated, I want to be able to dismantle the model for transport purposes, as four separate components: The sphere and neck assembly, the spine and modules, the antenna array and lastly the engine module. With this in mind, that means I need a wiring connector between the sphere and the spine. Once I run the wiring in the tube, I am then going to connect these to very fine wire, sprayed black. These fine wires will then run from the spine tube to the base of the display case and then to the power source. Having these wires will also help stop the model swinging on the suspension lines.
    The white lines in the pic are the suspension lines and the red lines are the power lines. Hopefully that makes it a little clearer.


    Anyway, my idea should work, but that remains to be seen!!

    Now that I am relatively confident that my wiring plan is going to work, I at last fitted the light box to the cockpit windows.
    I used black silicone as a glue and a sealant against stray light. I used the beermat jig to keep the cockpit window aperture square and true, and clamped the light box in place and left it to dry/cure.


    Also, to make sure that the cockpit lighting wiring does not snag anywhere when removing/fitting the sphere and neck assembly, I decided to add a tube to the neck assembly to smooth things out and make a passage for the wiring. I also coiled the wires to give them more freedom of movement.


    I am pleased with the cockpit lighting now, it looks much better than the test I did earlier.
    Oh, and you can also see in the pics, that I have detailed up the dark equatorial band of the sphere. :)

    General_327.JPG General_328.JPG

    See you all soon with more....

  9. Revell-Fan

    Revell-Fan Co-Administrator Administrator

    AMAZING!!! :Bravo:

    You could use 3.5 mm ear phone plugs and jacks to connect the wiring from one module to the other. Also, magnets should be effective in holding the parts together. :)
    DanBKing likes this.
  10. DanBKing

    DanBKing Active Member

    Yep, I've already worked out which connectors I am gonna use.

    These .......

    PCB Headers ......Two of these fit nicely inside the spine tube..... ;)

    Also, I am going to use a magnet to hold the antenna array in position. The other modules will fit to the spine tube with an interference fit, so shouldn't require any magnets. I'll show some pics when I do final assembly so you can see how I intend to fit everything together. :)
    ASC Mclaren and spaceagent-9 like this.
  11. Revell-Fan

    Revell-Fan Co-Administrator Administrator

    These, too!:) Excellent strategy!
  12. spaceagent-9

    spaceagent-9 Right Hand Man and Confidant

    incredible model and awesome work on it by you!!
  13. DanBKing

    DanBKing Active Member

    Thanks Jim.
  14. zathros

    zathros SENIOR Administrator

    DanBKing likes this.
  15. DanBKing

    DanBKing Active Member

    Thanks for the nice comments guys!

    Again this week, I haven't had much time for modelling but the build has progressed a way ...

    I started finalizing parts of the model.
    The engines needed to be fitted properly to the engine module. I started thinking that the removing and replacing of the engine module, would create stresses here and there and may weaken the parts over time. So, I decided to strengthen the parts that needed it. As I have shown previously, the centre engine stem fits over the end of the spine tube with a light interference fit. It is because of this interference fit, that I needed to strengthen some places.
    I used 3mm thick cardboard and attached the engine tubes with plenty of glue for a strong joint, after of course making sure everything was lined up properly.

    The module is then slid over then end of the spine tube and through the formers and then connects to the centre engine pipe. The interference fit of the connection holds everything firmly together without the need for glue or magnets.


    The pic below shows the strengthening plates and the attached tubes more clearly and shows how the tubes are fit together.

    So, for transport purposes the engine module, complete with engines, is now removable. :)

    General_335.JPG General_336.JPG General_337.JPG

    With the engine module now complete, I moved on to the neck and command sphere.

    The tube that I fitted in the neck for the wiring was too tight on the spine tube and required unnecessary force to remove it. So, this tube was removed and another fitted. I also strengthened up the back of the neck cap with thick card too.


    Inside the sphere, I made a loose knot in the wire and added a protection piece with glue. This protection piece will jam up against the tube in the neck, preventing the wires from being ripped from the light box if the wire is pulled too hard by accident.
    I decided to do this because once the neck is glued to the sphere, I have no way to get inside the sphere again.


    I fed the wiring through the tube and also made a stopping piece to stop the wire springing back inside the sphere. If it did spring back in, I don't think I would ever get it out again..... :)


    I did some final adjustments and checked everything thoroughly including that the lighting works, and then glued the neck to the sphere.
    It is not a 100% perfect fit, but it is the best I could get it. Once the glue has dried thoroughly, I will burnish the joint to improve it a bit.

    General_342.JPG General_343.JPG

    I am relatively pleased with that. :)

    In my next instalment, I should have the wiring finalized in the spine.
    I am also having a bloody nightmare with the antenna dishes, but that saga I will explain in a later post. :sadno:

    Take care everybody.

  16. Revell-Fan

    Revell-Fan Co-Administrator Administrator

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  17. micahrogers

    micahrogers Active Member

    absolutely beautiful work Dan
    DanBKing likes this.
  18. Tonino

    Tonino Member

    Wow! I'm trying to imagine what if you had A LOT of time for modeling!!! :wideyed:
    DanBKing likes this.
  19. DanBKing

    DanBKing Active Member

    Well, for one, indirectly, I would not have time to work so much, and I could live with that arrangement!! :):);)
    Tonino likes this.
  20. DanBKing

    DanBKing Active Member

    @Tonino Oh, and thanks for providing my 200th 'Like' :D
    Last edited: Jun 19, 2015

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