progress on my layout

Discussion in 'HO Scale Model Trains' started by viperman, Aug 27, 2006.

  1. LongIslandTom

    LongIslandTom Member

    LOL, it's lightly weathered. (notice the pastel-chalk weathering to simulate a bit of faded paint, india-inked grilles, and rooftop diesel exhaust soot).

    I didn't want to go super heavy realistic weathering with peels and rust on that model just yet, because it means I'll have to weather everything else on my pike and roster to the same degree, and I'm too lazy to do that! :D
  2. Russ Bellinis

    Russ Bellinis Active Member

    Not necessarily, as one who has lived in So Cal and seen the S.P. up close and personal regularly before the U.P. takeover, S.P. was consistently much more weathered and rusty looking than Santa Fe or U.P.
  3. Canopus

    Canopus Member

    I don't think that's neccesary - not all locomotives will be in the same state of cleanliness at any given moment in time. Your loco looks like it was cleaned a week ago, if that. Surely there would be a few there that haven't been cleaned yet, and are awaiting their turn? I mean it's up to you how you weather them, it's your tastes, I'm just saying I don't see why you'd have to weather them all the same.
  4. viperman

    viperman Active Member

    Attention Readers

    I have decided that since I have been talking about changing the trackplan, I will. I was at Hobby Lobby today, and was looking through an Atlas trackplan book. I came across one called Rancoca's Harbor Belt, and though I will give my hand at this one. I like the track plan. It is more or less a loop (two loops make up one full circuit), sidings, a small yard. It's all good. Now to go and dismantle the layout I have now, not that it'll be very hard to do, there isn't much there
  5. dr.5euss

    dr.5euss Member

    Did you buy the book or just use Hobby Lobby as a librarysign1 ?

    Looking forward to seeing this develop :thumb:
  6. viperman

    viperman Active Member

    Tried to use HL as a library, but ended up buying the book. There is just too much to the layout to memorize, and it even describes how to set up the benchwork, the wiring, and everything. Even has a supply list for all the track pieces needed, switches needed, etc.

    I've already started to dis-mantle my layout. I'm in the process of removing the 2x2 patch I added in the walkway gap. As seen in the pics, my layout is 2 4x8s, with a 2x4 section cut out of one. The remaining 2x4 section remaining will be cut off to make a 4x8 with a 4x4 L
  7. UP SD40-2

    UP SD40-2 Senior Member

    Steven, GLAD you found a trackplan you like!!!:thumb::D . are you staying with BN? or are you changing era and roads? what are your plans? :D -Deano
  8. viperman

    viperman Active Member

    Sticking with my BN loco. I do have a Dodge Viper to put on the layout, along with a 74 Ford van, and a BN semi. Those 3 alone would make it modern (well, the Viper and the semi anyway). I will be sticking with the shorter lengh cars, as the trackplan calls for mostly 18" curves. I will try to get a pic scanned of the trackplan from the book its in, to post it up here.

    Early dilemnas:
    Do I build it with the harbor, as the plan is, or just scenic it?
    Do I build it cookie cutter style as the book has it (cheaper), or go buy risers and inclines?

    I would like to lay foam down under it this time around, probably with 2", so if I do go with the harbor, or even just any water for that matter, I can carve down from the track level, as the plan is somewhat of a level plan, though it does have its ups and downs (no pun intended).

    Question about soldering track. I think I would also like to solder the tracks this time around, any tips?
  9. UP SD40-2

    UP SD40-2 Senior Member

    Steven, THANKS for answering my questions:thumb: . Hmm, 18r and you want to stay with a BN era layout, 50' boxcars WILL make an 18r curve, that will help make it look "modern". Harbor, thats something you will have to decide, i haven't seen the trackplan, so i really cant tell you what I think;) . i am "old school", i have ALWAYS done layouts cookie cutter, i have never used foam. i only solder the curves, i always thought you had to keep some track NOT soldered for expansion and contraction? others might give you better advice on that;) . ONE THING, i personally have NEVER had good luck with #4 switches:( , i suspect the layout plan might call for them. when i "use to" use #4's, i used Atlas code 100, perhaps there is another brand that makes better ones so you wont have problems. when it comes to trackwork, i HATE that part of the hobby, and am BY FAR NOT an expert on that:( . i hope others will chime in with good advice for you:thumb: . you have a lot to think about, GOOD luck with your new plans:thumb: . i WILL be checking to see how you progress:thumb: , keep posting pics!:thumb: :D -Deano
  10. Canopus

    Canopus Member

    Rail served harbours are cool, but can be a bit overwhelming if you've never done one before.

    First of all there are so few ships available in HO that you really have to scratchbuild. For a large cargoship that's going to be impossible, since a model of a bulk carrier would in HO gauge be 2 meters long. You could however build coastal cargo and tanker ships, which would be around 70/50 cm long. Of course you'd have to learn a bit about model ship construction methods, ship design, ship operation, and model ship detailing first. That takes nothing but time spent searching the internet for photos and asking lots of questions on model boat building forums. For a pair of standard sized cargo coasters, assuming that the hulls and superstructure were scratchbuilt, I'd say it would cost you about $80 to $100 per ship in detail parts and materials. Then you'll want to add dockside features like bollards, cranes, bumper tires, harbour walling, warehouses, supply stores, repair shops, fuel tanks, distributor and trader offices, harbour masters office, maybe a few smaller boats here and there, which with the help of walthers would probably all come to around $800, excluding the ships. So that's $1000 you've spent so far, now you've gotta put water down. At about $2 per 10cm squared for decent stuff, I'd say you'd be looking at about $120 to cover your whole harbour area. So $1120, lots of time, and quite a bit of work will get you a complete harbour scene.

    Reckon you're up for the challenge? If you are, I would be more than happy to save you a lot of time by helping you with learning ship design and by handing over whatever ship photos you would need for references, as well as my knowledge on model ship building. If not you better start thinking about what's going to go in it's place (IE industry).
  11. viperman

    viperman Active Member

    I have to try and scan some of the article from the book today, if I get a chance. A haror would be neat to do, but I'm more of a train running through the scenery type of guy. Not sure what type of industry I would replace it with yet, but would be cool to put a town in there.

    I don't recall off-hand what type of turnous it calls for. I'll have to double check, I don't even know what types I have right now. I'm guessing #4, but is there a way to check?

    I do plan to use my BN loco as said before, with shorter length cars, like Deano was saying. I already have some 40 and 50ft cars, but want to expand the collection. Looks like the longer cars I have will be getting put to good use taking up space. Think I may even look into building a display case that can be put into the benchwork, kinda like a cabinet under the layout.
  12. green_elite_cab

    green_elite_cab Keep It Moving!

    I think you should try and figure out a way to fit larger curves in there. Whats the overall space you have to model?

    Also, you can just have a bunch of barges to be loaded without outragous amounts of ships and space being taken up. I have made a layout plan like that before.
  13. green_elite_cab

    green_elite_cab Keep It Moving!

    I think you should try and figure out a way to fit larger curves in there. Whats the overall space you have to model?

    Also, you can just have a bunch of barges to be loaded without outragous amounts of ships and space being taken up. I have made a layout plan like that before.
  14. 91rioja

    91rioja Member


    If I recall correctly, some of the Atlas plans on paper actually did not fit right in real life. I remember reading something about using flex track in most places instead of the curves suggested.

    Good Luck.
  15. viperman

    viperman Active Member

    I'll try to build it as the plan is, and see what hapens. Hopefully it'll all work out ok. I'll keep everyone updated as I progress.

    Right now, I have all the track and wiring up, and most of the roadbed too. I plan to put foam down (probably 2"), then get new roadbed, again probably foam.
  16. jbaakko

    jbaakko Active Member

    There's also an airvent on the nose (the round bump), wind defelectors (the greyish thing to the front to the cab's side windows), windsheild wipers, MU Line (the big red one!), ditch lights (depending on era), lift rings, drop steps...

    I'll stop there, otherwise you'll get into detailing the underframe.
  17. viperman

    viperman Active Member

    Ok, well, everything is off the boards now. Next step is to put the foam base down. Should I use the pink or blue? Is there a difference?
  18. Nazgul

    Nazgul Active Member

    There is no difference...most people use which ever is available.

    Is this the track plan?
    View attachment 30415

    Attached Files:

  19. jbaakko

    jbaakko Active Member

    I've avoided using foam, I'm gonna go very open with my layout, but in your case, but what ever is available. There's a Green foam too.
  20. Nazgul

    Nazgul Active Member

    These are strictly MY opinions as a novice;)
    If you're going to use blue or pink foam as a sub roadbed I would dispense with the cookie cutter method and use foam risers (great product and easy to use).
    The answers to many of your other questions, about the harbor and such, will become clear as you progress and SEE your layout unfold. I think you should PLAN on a harbor or at least a pier or two....If you later decide you don't want can just scenick it as a hill or houses or something else.
    #4 turnouts.....Deano's right about those...if they can be avoided, do so. The same goes for small radii. The problem is...they're not usually a choice (without considerable compromises to your track plan). My layout has about 14 turnouts...12 are #4's. I have not had a problem with them but if I had the space I would have liked to use #6's.
    Steven, It's like anything step at a time....and have fun!:thumb:
    Post that pic of the track plan with harbor and other feature locations.

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