progress on my layout

green_elite_cab

Keep It Moving!
Yeah i definitely wouldn't follow any premade track plan. You really should come up with your own, because if you follow someone else's plan, its not going to be able to do what you want.

You might find your BN GP40-2 to be to big, and a billion other shortcomings. You need your layout to be custom for what you want to do.
 

viperman

Active Member
Steve, that is the trackplan!

The plan right now is to use a foam base, and use risers and inclines to elevate the track. The book says to use the piers to raise the track, but I don't want to do that.

I never did get a chance to scan any of the pics today, but they don't really have a detailed drawing of the trackplan with buildings, just of the track pieces needed
 

Canopus

Member
I never did get why some guys will BUY risers when you can make them just as easily, so good for you for opting not to buy them!

I know I made the harbour scene sound a little complicated, but how about a small fishing port? You can actually buy fishing boat kits, so you wouldn't have to scratchbuild anything. All you'd need is a fishmarket and some cold storage warehouses - your rolling stock would be reefers out, fuel tanks in. Would be pretty cool, and if you ran it using switchers and road switchers as a small branch line it would work with your tight curves. Also that would open it up to all sorts of cool small details here and there, like lobster pots, crates, nets, etc. Plus you could have a small town that has built up around it.
 

pgandw

Active Member
Steven

You can cut your own risers from pieces of left over foam.

If you are going to use 18-22" radius curves, then Atlas #4 turnouts are fine. They will handle anything the curves will.

my thoughts, your choices
 

TruckLover

Mack CH613 & 53' Trailer
WOW this thread has really taken off!! I have to catch up. I caught a glips of the new track plan and I like it:thumb: :D

I have 18-22" radius and I also use #4 switches and they work well.
 

jbaakko

Active Member
Canopus said:
I never did get why some guys will BUY risers when you can make them just as easily, so good for you for opting not to buy them!

I know I made the harbour scene sound a little complicated, but how about a small fishing port? You can actually buy fishing boat kits, so you wouldn't have to scratchbuild anything. All you'd need is a fishmarket and some cold storage warehouses - your rolling stock would be reefers out, fuel tanks in. Would be pretty cool, and if you ran it using switchers and road switchers as a small branch line it would work with your tight curves. Also that would open it up to all sorts of cool small details here and there, like lobster pots, crates, nets, etc. Plus you could have a small town that has built up around it.
Buying is easy, thats why. I have to mention though, I found that 1 out of 3 Woodland scenics foam risers are too tall.
 

viperman

Active Member
If I have enough leftover foam that can be sculpted into risers, I probably would go that way, but I'm still not that far yet. I have to put the base foam down next weekend. Maybe I'll even get to start laying out the tracks, to see what all I need to get yet, and get a feel for the trackplan. I do need to get new roadbed yet too. Should I go with cork or foam for that? Does one have an advantage over the other?
 

jbaakko

Active Member
Cork will be a hold out for many, it works best if tacking the track down with nails, or hand laying. WS Foam roadbed is sweet because its soft, and it cusions the blows of the rail cars hitting the gaps in the rails. BUT there's also this option:
http://www.trains.com/mrr/default.aspx?c=a&id=293

They showed how to use foam double sided tape for roadbed, quick & easy!
 

viperman

Active Member
I like the idea of using that foam tape too. It sure is an alternative I hadn't thought of, and is probably a bit cheaper than actual roadbed, but I would still need something on top of the tape to hold the track down. I was planning on using tacks to hold it down, then letting the glue with the ballasting do the rest.
 

viperman

Active Member
I have noticed people telling me I shouldn't use the Atlas trackplan. The thing is, I can't come up with anything I like by myself. I have seen other plans floating around the site I would love to use, but don't have the room for. I included a photo of the available space to build the layout, just incase anyone wants to give it a shot. Galen, you reading this?
mytrainset-27.JPG
 

UP SD40-2

Senior Member
Steven, looking at the space you have, it looks to me like you could do a track plan with an outside mainline that would have a 22r:thumb: . you could have it be able to switch to an inside line with 18r;) . OR, you could have a mainline with 22r and a couple passing tracks, then shoot off it in a couple places for industries:thumb: . use the smaller part for a yard;) . just a couple thoughts:D -Deano
 

viperman

Active Member
I was thinking of using the 4x2 section as a yard, maybe with an engine house or something. I would like a 22r main around it, but I don't just want a simple loop, which is why I like the idea of the Rancocas
 
Ok so let me get this correct....you have a room to build your layout in?

From your picture I see it being 8x8?

If you hook me up with the room size I will tool around with a track plan.
 

MilesWestern

Active Member
How about an "O" shaped layout, so you can have a good sized yard, and large radius curves for larger equipment, Trust me , the LAST thing you ever want to think or worry about while buying that steamer or modern diesel is "will it make the curve?" :curse: I know I;ve had to live with that :curse: problem since I built my layout!!!
 

green_elite_cab

Keep It Moving!
viperman said:
I have noticed people telling me I shouldn't use the Atlas trackplan. The thing is, I can't come up with anything I like by myself. I have seen other plans floating around the site I would love to use, but don't have the room for. I included a photo of the available space to build the layout, just incase anyone wants to give it a shot. Galen, you reading this?
mytrainset-27.JPG

Its tough to come up with a plan. the best thing you can do is use real life inspiration. if there is a particular part of the BN you know well, do it. find out what runs there often. find the major industries on the line.

stick to the widest curves you can.

its all about figuring what you want.
 

green_elite_cab

Keep It Moving!
viperman said:
I was thinking of using the 4x2 section as a yard, maybe with an engine house or something. I would like a 22r main around it, but I don't just want a simple loop, which is why I like the idea of the Rancocas

I live near Rancocas New Jersey... but i bet you are thinking of a different Rancocas.
 

green_elite_cab

Keep It Moving!
MilesWestern said:
How about an "O" shaped layout, so you can have a good sized yard, and large radius curves for larger equipment, Trust me , the LAST thing you ever want to think or worry about while buying that steamer or modern diesel is "will it make the curve?" :curse: I know I;ve had to live with that :curse: problem since I built my layout!!!

lol, i just got an SD80MAC, and i haven't been able to try it out past test runs. i'm going to intentionally run it on 18" curves because it will make your brains explode.
 

viperman

Active Member
GEC, when I last referred to Rancocas, that is the name of the trackplan. Not the town in NJ (which I just learned exists).The table is the 8x8, its in the basement at my parents' house which is very cluttered, so this is about all the room I have. I do have another 2 sections of wood about 2x2 each that could be added on if needed, but not on the right side, as there is a fridge and a freezer there. The room I have to work with is somewhat cramped.
 

jbaakko

Active Member
viperman said:
I like the idea of using that foam tape too. It sure is an alternative I hadn't thought of, and is probably a bit cheaper than actual roadbed, but I would still need something on top of the tape to hold the track down. I was planning on using tacks to hold it down, then letting the glue with the ballasting do the rest.
The tape should be double sided, if not use the adhesive caulk idea. You can buy it in squeezable tube, so you don't need to spend the money on a caulking gun.
 
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