UHU02's Valley Forge

Discussion in 'Science Fiction & Fantasy' started by OhioMike, Oct 22, 2007.

  1. ekuth

    ekuth Active Member

    Steve, I needed that laugh. sign1

    Good mental picture.

    ARMORMAN Guest

    also, don't forget....living in their parent's basement, never having kissed a girl....
  3. cjd

    cjd Member

    & then, when the bomb drops - 'ooohh, I've wasted my life...'
  4. jparenti

    jparenti Member

    Even though I agree with you, remind me NEVER to be critical of you guys. :rofl:
    Seriously, though, I always welcome tips like, "That part is upside down" or "That circle is supposed to be cut out." It's criticisms like, "It isn't accurate" and "I can see the seams and the edges aren't colored" that really make me mad. I need constructive criticisms, not scorn. (We cardmodelers are a sensitive bunch.) :)
    I've been looking for Valley Forge resources as well. It looks like they could barely keep the original prop in one piece, which makes it difficult to reproduce. (Cardstock and glue could do better, I say!) With those blueprints available, someone is bound to try it. I myself have no knowledge of drawing programs. If I did, I'd have done some of this by now. :(
  5. Odysseus

    Odysseus New Member

    Wow, Didnt know I was going to generate such a %^&*$storm for noticing somethings were wrong. Anyhoo, I am not a rivet counter or some ravenous fanboy with no life. This is one of the hardest ships to model period. And the engineering and execution are beautiful-but more than the domes are wrong. Things that I noticed were wrong were Domes too high, superstrucure on the main hull completely off, the overall shape of the main hull is completely off, and the girderwork (while impressive work to be sure) is also wrong. (the three main struts are made up of three smaller rods, with interconnecting rods connected by spheres) A gent Nmaed Mike Dentzer and myself spent about a year researching this ship to make models for ourselves. I even spent $32 for a copy of American Cinematographer from 1977 that had an article about the making of the miniature. If you care to see a brief article on our research it is stored at starshipmodeler.com in the reference section. In summary, its a good model it's just wrong.....:mrgreen:
  6. Gixergs

    Gixergs Well-Known Member

    So is someone going to try to make a model of the Valley Forge or not? Just wondering as the thread seems to have got bogged down a bit. No offence just wondering
  7. CJTK1701

    CJTK1701 Banned

    Now that would be an interesting model, also a bit of a challenge. :thumb:
  8. OhioMike

    OhioMike Member

    I've already started it in polystyrene...sorry for that vulgar word, but i also have trouble with CAD, and i have been working with polystyrene:eek:, all of my life in modeling. I'll eventually get the 3D and unfolding thing down pat but not yet. As far as complainers or those that find it neccessary to critisize....Hey, build one better than fella!
  9. CJTK1701

    CJTK1701 Banned

    Oh Dude! You sound like me! LOL. Don't like it? Build it better! LOLsign1
  10. Odysseus

    Odysseus New Member

    Actually, Michael Dentzer did build a better model-an amazing model. It is showcased on one of the websites that has reference pics of the V.F.
    Valley Forge - Models

    There is a link to a mesh at the bottom of the page, but I think it may have too many Polys to unfold.

    Michael had come up with an ingenious way to simulate the girderwork on the domes-fine brass mesh stretched over the plastic hemisperes. The thing that stopped me with my build, was the interconnecting supports for the main truss. Each segment that runs down the the long access of the ship contains little support brackets which have a bar with asphere in the middle ike this I-0-I . This is a side view of the brackets. Now heres the tough part. the two flat parts on the ends are comprised of three rings comprising a triangle, with a slightly smaller disc in the middle.
    / \
    o o

    I calculated that it would take 96 of these little buggers to construct the main truss, and that photo-etched brass would be the best medium, unfortunately I couldnt find a Photoetcher willing to take on the job (at least affordably) and do it yourself photo-etch was not an option. Doing this with ridgid card may be feasible, but I am new to this hobby and I'm sure that are others more qualified to speculate. The Blueprints alluded to earlier in the thread were made by the late Allan Everhart and were the basis for my build. they are not screen accurate, but are very close. Oh, and lastly, another thing that makes this ship a bugger to model is the main girderwork actually goes THROUGH one of the "stems" of the Eco-domes. If someone does manage to get this unfolded, I would be most eager to offer any asssistance (beta builder, etc).


    P.S. apologies for the crude diagram-its supposed resemble an equalateral triangle-8^(
  11. CJTK1701

    CJTK1701 Banned

    Thanks for the information and the links, that's all very interesting and informative. I'm not a member so I cannot DL the mesh, but I did get the add-on for Celestia. :thumb:
  12. ajmadison

    ajmadison Member

    I guess it depends upon what scale (size) these truss components are. Would it be possible to make them like tinkertoys? Meaning, resin cast a series of the 'rods' with the one of the connectors already attached, and where feasible, a set of holes in the connector ready to accept the end of one of the other rods? If the object is simple enough, a resin caster can do a couple rounds of cast, mold, cast, re-mold to produce a mold that can make, say a dozen of these things at a time. I've played with resin casting enough, that even a beginner can produce simple parts well and in volume, and is not the rocket science it appears at first glance.
  13. Odysseus

    Odysseus New Member

    Hmmm, interesting idea but the interconnecting struts would need to be the diameter of a finishing nail.

    I'm assuming you mean casting pieces that look like this:


    yes, no?
  14. ajmadison

    ajmadison Member

    Yes. Since the parts are not structural, they should have plenty of strength for what you need them to be. There would be some breakage, for sure, but with an effort this large, you'll be throwing out a handful of rejects anyway.

    The other alternative, is to cast small parts that look like this:

    O-< >-- and attach them to sections of Evergreen or Plastruct tubing.

    To look like this:

    O-<=========>-- End caps as it were. You would then need 192 of them, but again, you set up a mold of a dozen or so of them, you should be able to crank them out in a reasonable amount of time.

    Now that I know the scale of the effort, there is yet another alternative. Try a crafts store. You should be able to find a package of beads that would do a decent approximation of the center piece. Beads have come a long way from being shapeless lumps o'plastic. You may also want to study the Plastruct on-line catalog. There may be brackets in it that approximates the construction pieces you want to duplicate for the VF.

    I am definitely interested in your efforts, I'd love to build my own VF.
  15. Odysseus

    Odysseus New Member

    Beads were my inital thought for the connecting pieces as well, my idea was to take a micro drill bit and drill three smal holes in each bead; then stick small gauge wire or styrene rods in them.
  16. Joe Brown

    Joe Brown New Member

  17. uhu02

    uhu02 Active Member

    Valley Forge

    I run an idea in silence:wave:

    Attached Files:

    • vf1.jpg
      File size:
      91.7 KB
    Revell-Fan likes this.
  18. ekuth

    ekuth Active Member

    Oo! Oo! Oo!

    Oh, hell yeah! :twisted:
    Last edited by a moderator: Jan 29, 2014
  19. Elliott

    Elliott Senior Member

    Oh man! Be still my heart! Way beyond my meager abilities now; it would really be something to aspire to as they improve.
  20. Gixergs

    Gixergs Well-Known Member

    I feel there is a need here for a WOOHOO!!! Thank you and I now return you to our original programme:thumb:

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