G.E.C's layout pictures

Discussion in 'HO Scale Model Trains' started by green_elite_cab, Oct 14, 2006.

  1. green_elite_cab

    green_elite_cab Keep It Moving!

    Yeah, i have a spare athearn motor. that might be a good project to try to do today. I'll let you know how it goes.
  2. green_elite_cab

    green_elite_cab Keep It Moving!

    Its going to be a pain, because i can't get the current "white" plastic parts of the original drive, and my other repowering parts are not compatible with the current set up.

    Is there any kind of pulling tool i can use to removed these pieces from the motor shaft?
  3. green_elite_cab

    green_elite_cab Keep It Moving!

    pliers will destroy the plastic parts.
  4. green_elite_cab

    green_elite_cab Keep It Moving!

    I'm fairly pleased. the club i belong to helped me get my SD45-2 creeping instead of flying off the handle. I'm going to be going down there this sunday to help with their open house. I'll have to see if i can convince them to let me run it as an actual train. I would have liked to run my Kato SD40, but i need a decoder for it, and i don't think i'll be able to get one quickly in time, unless i can use one of my DH165AOs. I'll have to check that out.
  5. GEC: I checked Digitrax's page and they say that the DH165A0 is made for use in Athearn, Kato, Stewart, Atlas, and more. Should work!

    And...when I said "pliers" I meant very very carefully using needlenose pliers to lever the bit off by fitting the pliers between the motor body and the bit you want off.
  6. green_elite_cab

    green_elite_cab Keep It Moving!

    i have pretty much no faith left in their products.

    there decoder won't easily replace the current board, since the LEDs are funny, and i'm in no mood to be messing with rewiring crap. Its better to just get a decoder with an 8 pin plug in this case.
  7. brakie

    brakie Active Member

    I am confused..I don't understand your logic in using a decoder when Digitrax makes a direct Plug & Play replacement board for Athearn Genesis, Kato, Stewart,Atlas & Other HO Locomotives?

    Digitrax.com: DH165K0 HO Scale Mobile Decoder Fits Kato, Stewart, Atlas & OtherHO Locomotives
  8. Maybe it would be easier to understand if GEC would post a pic of the loco's mechanics and board. If you have one of the newer Katos, then yes, go with an eight-pin. Otherwise, your only real option is a replacement board.
  9. green_elite_cab

    green_elite_cab Keep It Moving!

    Basically, i'm the worlds cheapest person. I have an extra DH165AO decoder on hand (which is also a direct board replacement decoder), and while i have models that could use them, i have nothing in particular I want to install them in. I was hoping i could find good way to put it in my Kato SD40, but last night was in fact the first time since i bought the model that i actually popped the shell off to see the situation on the inside.

    The 8-pin plug looks easier, because i can still use the original lights, since kato has an odd way of using light bars and stuff, with the actual LEDs being deep on the heart of the locomotive. the SD40 seems to be wired up to abunch of copper tabs, and other things. It might not be an actual problem if not for the LEDs and the fact that i don't feel like poking around to much at the locomotive's original wiring. Its technically possible for me to wire any locomotive into this decoder, but it would be a pain to do so, and like Brakie says, there are decoders designed specifically for this locomotive that will fit better.
  10. brakie

    brakie Active Member

    Oh,Ok...I see and that makes good sense..:thumb:

  11. green_elite_cab

    green_elite_cab Keep It Moving!

    New Jersey Transit E60CH #958 pulls into the station.
  12. Heh...I take it you're running out of stuff to shoot?
  13. green_elite_cab

    green_elite_cab Keep It Moving!

    sort of.

    The biggest problem is that one side of my layout is almost always dark, so its hard to get pictures of it easily, unless i steal my sister's lamps. This is the only side of the layout where things are somewhat new and i actually have alot of stuff i can add to make things interesting.

    the other side of the layout i have so many pcitures of that even i'm bored of it. I can't even take a picture there unless i have something totally new on it.

    I do have a C32-8 model coming in, but thats going to get me like, 2 or three pictures and i'll have nothing left again. I also have a CNJ caboose i need to finish, which might get me a few more pictures, but still, not alot new, and i'd hate to keep pumping the same stuff.

    this leads me to my other problem, i focus so much on my locomotives that i often forget the rest of the layout as a whole, so now its nothing spectacular. I really need some inspiration.

    Do you have any photo requests?
  14. You have a yard, right?

    Line up every loco you can fit in there and snap that!
  15. green_elite_cab

    green_elite_cab Keep It Moving!

    I've done that before. There aren't enough new models to justify it. I do have one intersting picture.

    Raise your Pantographs if you love Electric locomotives! If you have a third rail shoe, your welcome to join too. (that ryhmes!)


    And there is atleast 3 more AEM7s to the left of the picture, the end of my HHP8 is sticking out. there are also some more Metroliner EMUs
  16. MilesWestern

    MilesWestern Active Member

    TOO!!! it's TOO!! I really like that TOO!! sorry, to correct you, but I can't help not to.

    sign1 ...anyways, annoying typos aside, pretty awesome photograph.
  17. MadHatter

    MadHatter Charging at full tilt.

    Will the real slim shady please put your pantograph up :)
  18. MadHatter

    MadHatter Charging at full tilt.

    Goodness gracious me, are you collecting a model of each of Amtrak and NJ Transit's locos??
  19. green_elite_cab

    green_elite_cab Keep It Moving!

    I installed Kadee 118 couplers in all of my NJ transit cars. They work wonders. the bottom shelves of the couplers keep the knuckles from sliding up/down and out. For long cars like commuter cars, these are a god send, since when these cars go over hills and bumps its very easy for them to pull out of eachother. It also keeps sagging couplers from pulling out of eachother as well. Its actually difficult to uncouple them unless you twist them right, or you have an uncoupling magnet, and twisting them is dangerous because i've already pulled one of these couplers out of an adjacent care by accident. you can't just lift the cars up.

    I plan to buy another couple sets for my SEPTA cars. SPeaking of SEPTA, i have a new AEM7 to replace my old busted one coming in.

    I also got a coupler guage and trip pin pliers, so i'm having a field day fixing all of that stuff. the guage came with shims to, so i've been correcting the problems with my trouble pieces of rolling stock.

    I'm going to leave it that way just to spite you.

    NAH i'm joking!:rolleyes:

    Specifically, I collect what runs on the Northeast Corridor from Washington DC to New York City, particularly focusing on the areas in New Jersey (I still need a MARC AEM7 to complete my collection of doom). I'm also a huge fan of American Electric locomotives. they've always impressed me the most, but that maybe because thats my major exposure to railroads.

    In the lover left corner, you'll see the old SEPTA unit as well, to add that list of railroads. In the back, you might be able to make out my Conrail E33 and Penn Central E44.

Share This Page