what glue?

Discussion in 'Tools of the Trade' started by doctormax, Apr 29, 2009.

  1. Randomepicperson

    Randomepicperson New Member

    UHU all-purpose adhesive. Works for every material, every time.
  2. ZombieHunter

    ZombieHunter New Member

    I started with an elmer's glue stick. It doesn't work well for fine work.

    Lately, I have been using loctite. I started with a gel and that worked pretty well. I ended up buying the thin super glue next. It works to drop in edges but I think the gel was better. Bad thing about the thin super glue is I've had it dry up on a piece before I got them together and then you can't glue it after that.

    If you glue and then move them in alignment, gel is the best.

    If you hold the pieces together in a dry fit manner, thin super glue is the best.

    But I'm going to continue to search and try some of the glues mentioned in this post...I definitely haven't found the perfect one yet.
  3. Zathros

    Zathros Guest

    UHu glue at Michael's Craft Stores is excellent.
  4. raven1999

    raven1999 New Member

    I personally have been using precision Superglue which has a nice small spout and it is long to get the the point i need to glue. but a real nice one is the brush Superglue which allows me to glue without over spreading and getting a nice thin layer on.
  5. Zathros

    Zathros Guest

    I post this every time someone says this use ay kind of Superglue, It should used extremely sparingly, outside, in a 200 m.p.h. wind.

    The cyanide in the glue is accumulative. It is extremely bad for you. If you can smell it, it is getting into your blood stream.

    I strongly recommend Zip Dry over any crazy glue. It will bond leather to steal. It is very thick and is for parts that need a strong glue, otherwise, I like UHU the best.

    White Glues are probably the most nutritious, not that good for models. They take far too long too dry, most contain lignin, which means they will yellow in time.

    If you are one of those kids who used to eat the white paste in school, it's time to stop. :eek::rolleyes::twisted: :p

    I use the two part "Steel" type epoxies to shape into molds for clear canopies.
  6. aleks

    aleks Member

    A good ZIP Dry substitute?
  7. Zathros

    Zathros Guest

    Is that possible? I am amazed at what ZipDry will hold together!
  8. aleks

    aleks Member

    Just wondering how to get it in Italy... It seems to be available only in USA and Canada.
    Beacon sells only in USA and Canada, Amazon.com will not ship it to Europe...
  9. Zathros

    Zathros Guest

    Oh, That stinks. It is such a good product. Maybe someone over there will pick up on it. Rhaven Blaack, our other Moderator is in Poland I believe, he may be able to give you a god alternative. Send him a P.M.. :)
  10. jappert

    jappert New Member

    I only use Velpon....
  11. Vortex_4200

    Vortex_4200 Member

    I have been using the elmer's craft bond papercraft glue gel and rubber cement, depending on what the part is and my needs at the moment, it does pretty good, I wonder if hobby lobby has the Uhu glue though?, I'll have to check it out...
  12. Zathros

    Zathros Guest

    Every time I see this thread, I feel like replying, "What Glue? Glue stuff dat hold models togedder!" :mrgreen:
  13. micahrogers

    micahrogers Active Member

    I use Aileens Quick Dry, Elmer's glue pen, Zap CA, Testors Hobby cement, and Tenax 7R plastic welder. different glues for different jobs.
  14. sirciarly

    sirciarly New Member

    I usually use pritt, but now is finished and I am looking for a glue that leaves less residue with a spout to dump the contents what do you recommend?

  15. reddwarf

    reddwarf Member

    I use B.I.C white glue. I find it works quite well.

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  16. Jadriancz

    Jadriancz New Member

    I have found good succes swith elmers craftbond clear, glue dots and double sided tape. Just spread very thinly with tooth picks... would like to be able to use a needle applicator for it but it's just a little too thick.
  17. zathros

    zathros -----SENIOR---- Administrator

    The problem with double sided tape is the tape's adhesive will dry out, and the model will fall apart, unless you glue it too. :)
  18. Jadriancz

    Jadriancz New Member

    hhmm wonder if the glue dots will end up doing the same thing..
  19. zathros

    zathros -----SENIOR---- Administrator

    Not if they penetrate. Depends what glue you use and how you use it. Sometimes, if possible, scuff up the area that you intend to join, raising up paper fibers, this will allow the glue to form a matrix and enhance it's mechanical hold. On some projects, on unseen structural parts, I take a hand drill, glue the edge, then hand drill small holes, allowing the glue to penetrate, the add small blobs on each side. It forms a rivet of sorts. I did this mostly with models that I flew though. Enough well placed Elmer's construction glue will be stronger than the paper it is attached too. I like Zip Dry because it is Lignin free, which means it cannot yellow. It dries clear and stays clear,and though it has a funny smell, it is completely non toxic. :)
  20. nero_on_fire

    nero_on_fire New Member

    Just wanted to add some experience with "UHU extra" glue to the conversation:

    I've been using it since I started and became kinda used to its downsides (pulling strings and drying fast), while the upsides clearly are a good bond and it drying fast ;)

    BUT: I've used it also on my mechanical paper iris, which has a lot of moving parts, and therefore putting stress (vertical/horizontal) to the glued parts. After about a year after the build was finished, the papercraft would start to make little "cracking sounds" when in motion, which are the bonds slowly but steady breaking up.

    So, I guess using white glue would be a good alternative when building moving parts, as it sinks in deeper into the paper and makes a more flexible bond.

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