And TADAAAAAAAAAAAA!!!!!!!!! You now have a 2-10-0 LOL....
This is the time where you have to test run this unit looking for binds or hesitations. You may have to run some temporary wires to power the unit while testing.
A few things about this picture......
1. WHERE THE HELL DID YOU GET THAT 5th DRIVER?.........
Funny you should ask that. The origional run of Mikes came with 4 sets of drivers. The pulling power of this locomotive with this arrangement was unsatisfactory to alot of modelers because of the lack of a tractiontire. Kato then produced for thoes disgruntled people (not for free) a EXTRA set of drivers with (YOU GUESSED IT) a Traction tire. Thats where I got the extra driver.
2. HAHA...YOUR DRIVERS ARE OUT OF QUARTER...FOOL.....
Yes they are. But you should notice that Drivers 3 and 5 are in sinc. Why is that you ask? Simple. When Kato origionaly make the Mike, they had powered the drivers 2,3 and 4. Driver 1 was a 'dummy' driver that was actually turned by the side rods. Drivers 2 and 4 were actually NOT connected directly to the side rods (because they are geared with the number 3 driver).
3. IN WHAT ORDER DID YOU REINSTALL THE ORIGIONAL DRIVERS?
OK....this is a little tricky to explain. So I will be thourogh.
The Origional drivers on the Mike we will call 1,2,3,4 (Starting from the pilot)
and the 'extra' driver 5. This is what you will find when you remove the drivers from the chassis....
Driver 1 has NO gears and has holes for the siderod pins.
Driver 2 has gears and NO holes for the siderod pins.
Driver 3 has gears and SQUARE holes for the siderod pins (master)
Driver 4 has gears and NO holes for the siderod pins (With Traction Tire)
Driver 5 has gears and NO holes for the siderod pins.
The only driver that needed modification was one with gears and NO holes for the siderod pins or put more simply....either Driver 2 or 5 (Ill pick 5). The modification done was simply the removal of the gears. This driver will be in the 'A' position ( I will be switching to LETTERS NOW to avoid confusion...LOL).
New Driver A=Old Driver 5 (Moded by removing gears)
New Driver B=Old Driver 2
New Driver C=Old Driver 3
New Driver D=Old Driver 4 (with traction tire)
New Driver E=Old Driver 1 (With holes for siderod pins)
If you can imagine (if you cant, just look again at the picture), the reason I moved the 'dummy' driver to the rear is obvious; it is ungeared and is "out in the open for all rivet counters to see". The NEW dummy driver is now in the A or 1 position and is hidden by the Valve stuff. We WILL eventually extend the side rods to the first driver, but I havent decided yet if I am going to attach it with pins.
4. AH HA!.....THAT LAST DRIVER IS GOING TO FALL OUT BECAUSE IT IS NOT BEING HELD IN BY THE ORIGIONAL UNDERFRAME!
Yes, thats correct!. Everyone has extra Kadee #5 coupler boxes around....I just extended the undercarrage with the 'top' of one-----perfect fit-----. Just use your imagination (a pre-requesit for bashers)...there are many ways to extend the origional under carrage!
That is it for today.
To be continued
David