My freelanced railroad
- Thread starter Gavin Miller
- Start date
msh (sorry, didn't catch your name?),
I like your suggestion about white lettering. It sounds good in theory anyway!! Hope it works in practice
I will have to give it a try next time I am doing some lettering.
Thanks guys for your other positive remarks.
Cheers
Gavin
I like your suggestion about white lettering. It sounds good in theory anyway!! Hope it works in practice
I will have to give it a try next time I am doing some lettering.
Thanks guys for your other positive remarks.
Cheers
Gavin
It won't work. I tried it a long time ago. The printer "whitens" the image by using the "transparent" background (the paper). If you print a color such as an extremely light gray, the printer just lays down an extremely fine layer of black. add red, and you get an extremely fine layer of black with a little red. The assumption by the printer manufacturer is that you are using white paper, therefore the printer uses the paper as a "color source" for white. I used to have an early Cannon inkjet that one could buy colored ink cartridges for. You could only use one color at a time though. It was good for pie charts and such. The great thing about it is that you could get white ink cartridges. The white ink wouldn't work too well on most paper as it just soaked in. It did work OK if the paper had a slick finish. I haven't used the printer in over ten years and I'm not sure the cartridges are still available. It would be worth digging it out of the store room if they were...
Tom F
Tom F
Thanks Tom.
You know, after I posted my "idea" I thought more about it and came to realize the same thing - that the color I had suggested really was no more than a real light shade of gray and the printer would only print the black to make that color gray on white paper.
All I have to say is - NUTS!
You know, after I posted my "idea" I thought more about it and came to realize the same thing - that the color I had suggested really was no more than a real light shade of gray and the printer would only print the black to make that color gray on white paper.
All I have to say is - NUTS!
G-R-E-A-T
That is some fantastic work Gavin, from the rolling stock to track work to scenery to backdrop, for a lack of better words it is simply WOW!!!!!!!!!!!
That is some fantastic work Gavin, from the rolling stock to track work to scenery to backdrop, for a lack of better words it is simply WOW!!!!!!!!!!!
My freelanced railroad is a modern-era all-diesel operation hauling mainly unit trains and intermodal traffic.
However I just couldn't resist these two steam offerings by Bachmann and Life Like.
They are both little gems, run smoothly and quietly and have beautiful detailing.
At least I have the excuse that these old steamers are on my railroad as "preserved excursion" trains.
If you operate a steam-era layout it is a little more difficult to explain away an SD90MAC outside the roundhouse!!!
I edited this shot in Photoshop to make it look more "steam-era"
However I just couldn't resist these two steam offerings by Bachmann and Life Like.
They are both little gems, run smoothly and quietly and have beautiful detailing.
At least I have the excuse that these old steamers are on my railroad as "preserved excursion" trains.
If you operate a steam-era layout it is a little more difficult to explain away an SD90MAC outside the roundhouse!!!
I edited this shot in Photoshop to make it look more "steam-era"
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Hi Gavin , the Lifelike Y3 looks great , althought i am a avid HO modeler i am very tempted , do they run as well as they look.I dropped into Stanbridges but couldn't see any , is PHC the only place thats got them?
Cheers
Ian
Cheers
Ian
Ian,
Yes they definitely run as good as they look (although there have been some grumbles about their pulling power - about 20, not 50 cars straight and level).
PHC may still have a couple.
Gavin
Yes they definitely run as good as they look (although there have been some grumbles about their pulling power - about 20, not 50 cars straight and level).
PHC may still have a couple.
Gavin
Thanks Gavin , love the pictures as well , the first is even my new wallpaper on my PCreen.I check out PHC tomorrow and see if any are left.
That pulling power is fine by me saves borrowing to many cars from the people
Ian
That pulling power is fine by me saves borrowing to many cars from the people
Ian
Gavin,
Those steamers look just fine on your layout. Everyone needs at least one to keep the sinuses clear. Don't fret about the pulling power. It gives you twice as much operating enjoyment doing a second trip.
Those steamers look just fine on your layout. Everyone needs at least one to keep the sinuses clear.
Don't fret about the pulling power. It gives you twice as much operating enjoyment doing a second trip. Gavin
I just have to say your railroad is a true inspiration for me.
(I was going to sell my Kato C30-7.. but seeing yours has made
me decide to stay my hand).
The Steam locomotives look great too, thanks very much for
sharing these photo's with us
Graham
I just have to say your railroad is a true inspiration for me.
(I was going to sell my Kato C30-7.. but seeing yours has made
me decide to stay my hand).
The Steam locomotives look great too, thanks very much for
sharing these photo's with us
Graham
Here's how I model "buried" track, either overgrown industrial sidings or tracks buried in "concrete" (eg on a wharf).
My module benchwork is built out of balsa wood.
To bring the level of the terrain up to sleeper (tie) height, I first glue down a thin sheet of balsa (about the same thickness as the cork underlay). Then I scatter scenic material over the sleepers and the "raised" terrain surface. In this way, the tracks look like poorly drained, poorly maintained, half buried industrial trackage (centre and right).
For my wharf area (left) I simply use a thicker sheet of balsa topped with sheet styrene (painted light grey). The combined thickness of the balsa/styrene sheets should be just shy of the railhead for ease of cleaning and operation.
Might be of use to someone planning something similar.
Gavin Miller
Perth, W. Australia
My module benchwork is built out of balsa wood.
To bring the level of the terrain up to sleeper (tie) height, I first glue down a thin sheet of balsa (about the same thickness as the cork underlay). Then I scatter scenic material over the sleepers and the "raised" terrain surface. In this way, the tracks look like poorly drained, poorly maintained, half buried industrial trackage (centre and right).
For my wharf area (left) I simply use a thicker sheet of balsa topped with sheet styrene (painted light grey). The combined thickness of the balsa/styrene sheets should be just shy of the railhead for ease of cleaning and operation.
Might be of use to someone planning something similar.
Gavin Miller
Perth, W. Australia
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That's GREAT looking trackwork, Gavin!
As I get a little more experienced with N scale, I realize the challenge of getting N scale track to look that good.
I hope I can get to a point one day, that my N scale track can look as good as yours & Tysons!
As I get a little more experienced with N scale, I realize the challenge of getting N scale track to look that good.
I hope I can get to a point one day, that my N scale track can look as good as yours & Tysons!
Beautiful layout Gavin.
I can't get enough of your photos.
Who makes the articulated light rail vehicles? I'm sure I could make use of a couple. I assume, being Japanese, that they are good runners.
John.
I can't get enough of your photos.
Who makes the articulated light rail vehicles? I'm sure I could make use of a couple. I assume, being Japanese, that they are good runners.
John.