HMS Eskimo designing ships for dummys

Darwin

Member
Sep 26, 2005
317
0
16
78
Idaho Falls, ID
Barry, I had the same staining on the deck while rigging the Blue and Helena. About the only way I can see to avoid it entirely is to glue the rigging to the deck from the bottom of the deck platform. If one thinks far enough ahead, it would be possible to figure out where the attachment points are located on the deck, and attach lengths of thread to the deck gluing them on the bottom side of the deck platform (threaded through appropriately positioned pin holes, of course) before gluing the deck in place. I did that with the Maly Cutty Sark I was working on before the house ate it (quite literally....it fell off behind the book shelf it was sitting on between build sessions, and I've never gotten the internal fortitude to spend the day or two labor to dismantle the shelving to get to it). In fact, I went so far as to put on the lines in "pairs", with the "pair" actually being one long string, so there was no detachable end beneath the deck structure...all real attachments were to the masts and spars. It was working well, but were a pain to work around while attaching the various pieces of deck equipment in place. The other thought I've had is to leave putting on the hull side skins until last, so the underside of the deck is accessible when rigging the ship. However, my guess is this would work best if one had at least one extra hand....ever wished you were a Barsoomian? That would make it a lot easier to tighten the lines while attaching them.

Speaking of the "free" 3D cad program....I wonder how much the "small fee" will be to make it functional when not connected to the internet, and whether that will remove the adware feature?

Sorry to hijack your thread....looking forward to your next installment.
 

Orion

New Member
Jun 18, 2005
35
0
6
65
Poland, Tarnow
Hi

Barry....
The effects, which you present are not good.
I think personally - very bad.
I do not like it : lack of blocking( retouch), curves the pull-offs ,
apparently drops of glue, etc....
You are experienced modeller yet.
Could you to explain me?

I see, you want very fast to finish this model.
You have pace of works very "impressive"
Why?
Where you speed?

I hope you will correct this elements
It was wished to was waste one's work
Maybe model is too difficult

I wish persistency
Sorry, I criticized but one should sometimes so....
 

Maurice

Member
Jan 16, 2004
152
2
16
Barry

An alternative alternative for access to rigging, for waterline models, is perhaps a double bottom. Before starting put windows in the base between former positions. Put a "solid" thin base on underneath later if wanted.

Darwin

USD 50, no way, try it with ads, no way, unless they do something about it before the release Alibre have managed to lose my interest.

Cheers
Maurice
 

bholderman

Member
Jul 21, 2004
112
0
16
Barry,

Just a question going all the way back to the beggining. You started by saying you were using Photoshop to design this thread, but I'm a bit lost at what you started with? An old model, blueprints, etc.?

Cheers,
Brad
 

barry

Active Member
Jan 28, 2004
1,557
1
36
86
Brighton Uk
Eskimo C deck

Hi All

Steel pins are better than copper, superglue is stronger it still leaves a mess. I found the right size wire for railings you take apart a computer flat cable and when I have found some glue to stick it together it will be great. A few more bits left to design and then it can go on the shelf as my first attempt at scratch building and gather dustand I will build it again before long you need not worry I shan't post it all again.

PIC_1318.jpg


PIC_1319.jpg


@brad

The plan I used is the one I posted on June 21st

@Maurice & Darwin

I think you have the answer as always I was looking at it tonight and realised that I would have tto move the base join along a bit somehow but it would work. If I left the sides till last I would smash all the railings probably but I suppose you could leave the wires off.

@Orion

Is it too difficult for me of course it is 1/250th scale too small for a destroyer with any detail especially as I was trying to design it at the same time. However from 10 feet away it looks like a Tribal come to think of it built properly it would look like one from 2 feet away.

I don't have as much experience as you think apart from a couple of free downloads I've built Savage, Takao, Fuso and Hood none of them brilliant but they gave me a lot of pleasure. However experience is not talent whether I like it or not and I'm not going to improve they will get worse. I can put on the gloves with the steel braces in them but they hurt and really stop my fingers working. The arthritis will only get worse and so will the models. Touching up is a joke take a look at the forward blast shield for an example had I any artistic talent I would be an impressionist.

Designing is a different thing altogether, I have half a chance of being reasonable at it with the minimum of tools in fact the ones I already have. My fingers shaking can be stopped with the shift key and I get perfect straight lines, using Siatki (Polish I think) I can draw funny shapes and if I can't do a bit like the turrets some kind soul here draws them for me.

I hope when I finally get this design placed on the right sheets of cardboard maybe Rob or Ted will build one for me so I can see it done properly.

I love looking at the Polish site and even more when occasionally one of you comes over and writes a bit in English here, the trouble is you all get exasperated with us because we can't keep up. I happen to think your build is brilliant and I am envious but even the Poles cheat on AA gun barrels.

DN gave me a prize out of kindness and said it was because I was crackers, but I think quite a few people had a go at Fuso who would not have done and that can't be bad.

When someone on the Polish site had a go about my arty farty pictures I didn't mind he thought the photos were crap but I got pissed off with him taking the piss out my cheap camera.

Having written all that crap keep sending the pictures please so we can all learn if not catch up.

pozdrawiam

barry
 

Maurice

Member
Jan 16, 2004
152
2
16
Barry

Orion tells me he did not realise and that he did not wish to offend.
I also hope he will go on posting his pictures.

Cheers
Maurice
 

Orion

New Member
Jun 18, 2005
35
0
6
65
Poland, Tarnow
Maurice said:
Barry

Orion tells me he did not realise and that he did not wish to offend.
I also hope he will go on posting his pictures.

Cheers
Maurice

Barry...
I feel low.... foolishly and clumsily :( , you believe me.

I couldn`t join with server "cartmodels" from several days.
So, really I took back message today and I read your plots.
Maurice also wrote me about your ailment.
I didn`t know about it, sorry.
I didn`t want to offend anybody, my friend

It changed essence of matter.
I hope you will continue your raport and work..... over model
I wish successes and I will watch with pleasure
 

Darwin

Member
Sep 26, 2005
317
0
16
78
Idaho Falls, ID
Barry, keep me in mind for a copy of your plans....I would like to take a crack at building it before my hands seriously go the way of yours. I'm headed down that path myself....I find myself dropping things more and more frequently, and no longer need a weather man to tell me it is going to rain before midnight. This getting older isn't for sissies, for sure. Funny thing about a bit of viewing distance....errors take their proper perspective. In my younger days of building flying models, I tended to look down my nose at the "stand-off scalers" in the group. Thank God they had a high tolerance level and allowed me to live long enough to appreciate their art. Screw the critics....if your efforts satisfy you, then they are good enough. I may not be as good as I once was, but I'm as good once as I ever was....just wonder how much longer I can keep believing that? More like the truth is that it now takes me all night what I used to be able to do all night. Keep the builds coming, my friend.
 

murban

Member
Apr 23, 2004
118
0
16
Scheessel, Germany
www.cardinspace.com
Hi Barry,

it really looks like your Eskimo is about done - good job! I wouldn't have the patience to design and build at the same time. Seeing a part not fitting, ripping it off and redesign it would drive me nuts. Instead, I give my designs to other people for test-building and let them suffer ;)

waiting for more,
Michael
 

silverw

Member
Mar 15, 2004
104
0
16
73
Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
members.shaw.ca
Hey Barry...

Again I say... FANTASTIC STUFF!!!

I too would like a copy of this model when you get her all ready to go. I know , and can appreciate all the hard work you have put into her.


Gret pics too, BTW.

...Bill

P.S. If others complain...tell them to put there pictures where there mouth is!!! :evil: :evil: :wink:

P.P.S. Darwin..... Right ON!!! I see that we are close enough to the same age!!
 

barry

Active Member
Jan 28, 2004
1,557
1
36
86
Brighton Uk
Eskimo last laps

Hi All

I guess apart from rescaling the anchor guides (which are twice as big as they should be) the design itsself is finished probably to everybody's relief mine as well I think, at least it looks somewhat like a Tribal.

PIC_1325.jpg


I think it has to be built like this at the bow end anyway because I have been sitting scratching my head over whichorder you assemble the ship in the funnel area. You have to get the steam pipes onto the funnels, then the davits set up so that you can check where the AA platform goes but the stays from the davits attach directly to the AA platform so you can only attach the ones fixed to the deck. I had made a fundemental measurement error on the mast deckhouse leaving it 2mm too small, not much but you can't get the mast in at the right angle without the space. That got cut out and replaced tonight but I am not going to show yet another lousy pic. I'll bore you with tomorrow instead.

PIC_1324.jpg


pic to show errors.

I am hoping I have got it right that most of the aerials lead down to the bridge or the boxes at the back of C gun deck. Good job I wrote this bit I had forgotten the holes for the mast stays. I managed to touch up the ships boats reasonably well but shaky fingers made a lash up of the "easy" bit the funnel caps so before the job is finished I guess it will have to be rusty sides and smoky stacks.

PIC_1323.jpg


I keep looking at the supposed 4.7 and thinking nearer to 8" in which case it will have to be wire because no way can I roll the thinner ones and I am still not happy with the torpedo tubes a bit too thin

Bill

send you one with pleasure.

barry
 

Bowdenja

Active Member
Sep 26, 2005
485
0
36
67
Madison, MS
Hey Barry,

I think it looks great! Great job!

A tip on rolling paper for barrels/struts etc.......I just recently found this out and it seems to work pretty good.

1. Cut out the part that has to be rolled. As usual.

2. Glue a proper (small) diameter wire to the inside edge....the edge that
is inside after rolling....with super glue. The wire MUST extend out on
each end of the paper.

3. Let the glue dry. Be sure to use just enough to glue one side of the
wire, and glue to the very edge of the paper.

4. Grasp the wire with pliers/forceps and roll the wire while twisting the
paper in your fingers, or on the mouse pad as desribed in another
posting.

5. After you get a tight roll....unroll it and put PVA glue on the paper and
re-roll. Hold till the glue starts to set, or until it won't un-roll on it's own
accord.

6. Grasp the glued roll and hold tight, and twist the wire in the same
direction as rolled until the super glue is released and you can
remove the wire.

Hope this is a good enough explanation. Like a said I just found this out......maybe I'm a dunce. But it has worked for me better than any other way of rolling. I get tighter and more uniformed rolls.

Again great design and build. I love the way you stay the course!

john
 

barry

Active Member
Jan 28, 2004
1,557
1
36
86
Brighton Uk
Eskimo mast box

Hi

John that sounds a great way to make pompom barrels and should work fine for the 4.7 barrels if you leave the wire in place and just wind the "thick bit" at the turret end of the barrel. Thanks for the tip.

A couple more pics showing it is better to put the steam pipes on the funnels before you put the stay wires in especially the one coming out of the mast box. I put the mast in place so I could line it up with the centre of the funnel, of course I forgot to put the rails round the top of it "THIMK AHEAD".

PIC_1326.jpg


PIC_1327.jpg


PIC_1329.jpg


That should have bored everybody enough

barry
 

Jim Krauzlis

Active Member
Sep 26, 2005
1,490
0
36
68
Copiague, Long Island, New York
Bored? No way, Barry!

She's looking better and better with each update...lots of great little details, mate!

I imagine it's difficult enough to try and plan out the assembly when working from a kit, but to do so with a new design must be doubly challenging...but despite an occassional bump, this build is coming along brilliantly.

Keep at it, mate, she's beautiful!

Cheers,

Jim
 

Maurice

Member
Jan 16, 2004
152
2
16
Barry

Bit of wishfull thinking going on if you're hoping to bore people with this.
:D

Cheers
Maurice
 

barry

Active Member
Jan 28, 2004
1,557
1
36
86
Brighton Uk
Eskimo guns

Hi All

Finally could not stand those guns anymore, looked more like wacky baccy rollies, so I used John's method of rolling tubes round a wire but left the wire as the barrel they look a bit skinny (in spite of the fact they are as near as dammit the right guage) but a lot more elegant than before. Added the rest of the ventilators and a couple more carley floats so a couple more pics. Then its two more winches and on to the rigging and masts. Oh Joy !!!!!!!

PIC_0030.jpg


PIC_0031.jpg


PIC_0034.jpg


barry
 

barry

Active Member
Jan 28, 2004
1,557
1
36
86
Brighton Uk
Eskimo masts

Hi

Managed to put the main mast together tonight bit of a laugh as you all know I can't measure for toffe so I printed out the bit of the plan with the mast on stuck it on top of a large lump of plasticene nicked from the grandchildren. I cut the mast to the right length and the struts a bit oversized stuck them through the plasticene and the plan pushed them through to compensate for the thickness of the lump. I can't hold a ruler steady so I cut a bit of paper to the length from the topof the mast to the struts lined the main mast up by eye with the one on the model then hastily jammed the soldering iron down before I wrecked it. Luckily the strus actually fitted round the stack an stays. More by good luck than anything else.

PIC_0036.jpg


Added the quad Vickers machine guns funny contraption apparently not very effective.

PIC_0037.jpg


At least you can see the gun barrels and the water hides the mantelpiece.

barry