Discussion in 'General Card Modeling' started by burneggroll, May 14, 2011.
Noob question? Should I cut; inside, outside, or on the line?
Center of the line, of course. Not that it matters, most of the time We are talking about some 1/10 mm here, are we? Do you count the thickness of the glue layer?
It may not matter where you cut on the line when you are making planes, ships, buildings, (I do not make them, so I do not know that for sure.) but it makes a big difference if you are making models of people or anime characters, especially if their faces are white or pink colored. When you cut in the center of the line, there is still a very narrow black link that will show up on light or white colored surfaces of the model. Thin, black lines do not look good on a face, arms, or legs. Perhaps the most important thing is that you are consistent in your cutting style. Cut on the line all the time, inside the line all the time, or outside the line all the time. I am still a newbie, so please correct me if I am mistaken. Thanks.
I actually do use pinking shears, great for making tabs for curved parts.
I feel "safer" by cuting in the center of the line, since you are always following a straight line and no white (blank) remains will be left in the usable cut-out.
Whatever you do, it is important to always maintain the same reference. Otherwise, you can end up with an accrued intolerance which can come around to "bite" you. I also have found it is better to do the bow and stern of a ship first as it is oft times easier to make up any problems in the center of the hull.
Depends on if you want the line to show or not. I tend to cut just inside the line so it does not show on the model.
Some models are designed to be cut on, in, or outside the line. If you can contact the designer and if the designer has built the model for test purposes, you can ask where they recommend to cut. If not, I suggest cutting on the outside of the lines as cutting. That way, after dryfitting, you can tell if you need to make adjustments to your cutting.
If you're worried about the black lines showing on the finished model, (something I stress over frequently now a days), take some 1000 grit or higher sandpaper and sand the black edge down at an angle. This eliminates the black line (results differ from different papers) and you can take your retouching medium (I use acrylics) and retouch the edge where the black line used to be.
all the same to me
I cut on the line but some times you have to cut on both the in side and out if there is some distorion in the printing. micromodels buildings offtem needed correting and the lines on some of the sheets of the sd14 that i am buildng at the moment, are smugged .
Depends on colour and type.
If you build something that has bright colours like a anime model, you want just on the inside
If you are building something metal eg
Helmet, tank, wall, or dark coloured models a just cut out and what i see is white and vissible, i go over in black felt or marker pen.
And if it is non textured, then who gives a rats' maggot ridden backside
Depends soley on model
I'd agree that it really depends upon the model. Many model, such as the Canon architecture series, are basically 3D line art. That is they have lots of lines visible on the object faces. With that type, you probably want to keep your lines. With more texture-oriented models you might want to trim the lines, particularly in a critical area like a face or something. Even card modelers get to make artistic decisions now and then.
That's a tough poll because all of the answers could be right! Go with what the designer intended. Do dry fits to determine final trim...pinking shears actually do make great glue tabs (and shark's teeth)!lol
Fold, crease and score lines will usually give you an indication of where to cut. If the black line (part outline) is beyond the score line in the glue tab, then more than likely you are to build the model without lines. If the black line IS the outline AND fold (score/crease) line, then your model should be built with the black lines showing. This isn't a hard and fast rule, just a general observation.
Like everyone else said, the model is the big factor here. For what it's worth, any model that is spit out of pepakura should probably be cut on the line. just my personal experience.
I just got a Silohouette Cameo cutting machine. I also found out that Pepakura just came out with a designer package that includes software to cut the models you design on this same machine. I wonder if there is an option to set where it cuts. I don't do Pepakura, but many do so this issue will become relevant in another way. I purchased my machine for $269 (a gift from my Mother, actually), Thanks Mom!!
Your so lucky John, wish I had one of those.
I don't know whether I'd want a machine to cut parts for me. Next thing they'll just have a machine that makes the whole model. Oh yea, they do. Sometimes I wonder at what point craftsmanship will just be a matter of pointing an clicking (sigh).
That's not fair. Where's the picture and link to the machine that makes the whole model?!?
In my case, an injury to my Spinal Cord makes it very difficult for hands to do this kind of repetitive injury. I got a lot of guff (and support too) on another forum when someone made a comment about my lack od models recently, Remember you don't have to buy one of these machines and there are lots, and I mean lots, of people in my situation or similar, with arthritis, etc.. PepakuraDesigner has just released a version that makes the embedded marks for the machine to follow. It's here, and it's happening.
Having a machine that put's a model of your choice together, that a ways off. I used to program CNC machines. Some people thought it would put machinists out of business, it didn't. The management did that.
Hi! Thanks to reading this thread, I just tried out pinking shears for cutting a large cicular part that needed tabs. Way cool!!
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