Airbrushes

Vic

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My Dad was a commerical artist by trade so I was introduced to airbrushing at a very early age. Used to sit and watch him draw and and re-touch photos for hours.

Just wondering what eveyone's favorite airbrush is? I use Paache H and VL models ( single action and dual action) I've had Badgers and Binks and some other brands too but like the Paache's the best. My compressor was "salvaged" from a piece of medical equiptment and runs so quiet you have to listen hard to make sure its running.
 
C

Catt

I have a Paashe single action that I do all my airbrushing with.I love it.I only spray waterbased acrylics with and I only give it a though cleaning once a month unless I'm switching colours on a single job.

My basic clean up is to fill the jar with water and spray till it comes out clear (takes about 3 minutes)then I putthe brush away till the next job.:D
 
C

Catt

Tyson,airbrushes are really easy to use though oviously not needed for awesome modeling.:D
 

bobrien

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I bought a Badger set 28 years ago, and I tell you, it's still in the box unused.
I kinda got too handy with the brushes instead and never got the courage to try out airbrushing.
Going to give it a serious thrashing this time round tho :D

And I agree with Bill S - as long as you are using water based paints, no problem - but anything else :mad:
 

Vic

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Divided Camp

Ahhhh! I see we have a 'divided camp" on this one!:D Some likes 'em and some don't!

The trick to an air brush is to keep it clean:) Regardless of what kind of paint I use I run some "hot" lacqure thinner through it when done. Just like Catt's it always ready to go.:D
 

alkcnw

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I was just thinking about this subject today at work. The only problem I came up with is I never really used an airbrush before but I have seen some very nice results from them. my question is do I purchase one of those brushes that come with the aresal can just to learn or do I make the big jump and buy a good one right from the start. I do have a very nice compressor and set of regulators so which is the best way to go. and please no fightingover this post!!!!!!!!!!:eek:
 
Andy
I don't have one but I've sure been wanting one. I don't know how to get the same quality finish by brushing that you can by spraying. You just can't brush an auto.
Does anyone know how important it is to have dry air for airbrushing? Maybe the canned air is pretty good, altho $$$.
Like any tool purchase, once you have it, you'll likely find many uses for it. I've never been sorry I bought a tool.
Keep us posted
Cid
 

R.B. Turner

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Andy, if you already have a compressor and regulator you can get away pretty cheaply. I got an old freon tank from a AC guy several years ago. They are similar in size to a 20# propane tank. Plumb it with the appropriate fittings and you can fill it from your compressor and carry it to the train room. I use a regulator on it set for 25 to 30 psi. to the airbrush. I get good results this way and you can do a lot of painting on a tankfull. Or you can always buy one of those portable airtanks.

Randy
 

Vic

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Canned Air

Stay away from that canned air!:eek: That's just in my opinion a big rip off. At over $4.00 a can it don't take long to run up the price of a compressor(one can might paint 2 boxcars). Besides you never can get all of the "air" out of it and the pressure diminishes as you spray. You can actually get an adapter that will let you use the spare tire from your car as an air source. An old refridgerator compressor hooked up to an empty freon tank with a regulator makes a good compressor too. If you decide to buy a compressor stay away from those that are made for paint sprayers or inflating tires. Their air flow is too "pulsed" to work well with an airbrush. Get one that is designed for an airbrush. I've seen Paache H models on sale for under $60 and a good compressor and regulator will run you about another $150. That sounds like a lot but you are buying something that will last your lifetime if you take care of it.:D :)
 
Hey Vic
I agree that the canned air seems to be expensive. In my experience, moisture (humidity) in the air used for spray painting causes problems in the paint (blushing, loss of gloss) and I just wondered if you found it necessary to use a dessicant or other type drier on your compressors.
I believe (correct me if you don't experience this) that all air compressors accumulate moisture in the reservoir and require periodic draining. I just assume (u know what that means) that the canned air is bone dry.
Thanx
 

Vic

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Cidchase...Mosture

Nope, moisture will cause problems regardless of the the kind of paint that's being used. The regulator that I use ( don't know the brand 'cause I threw the box away years ago:D ) has a moisture trap built into it. If you see moisture start to accumulate you simply reach over and press a valve on the bottom to drain it.

What usually causes moisture problems with an airbrush is high humidity combined with the hot air from the compressor. Compressing humid air tends to make the moisture in it condense. The humid air cools at or near the airbrush and "spits" the moisture thru the airbrush. For this reason never hook your airbrush directly to the compressor. I have about 10 feet of clear plastic hose ( the kind used to hook up an icemaker) between the compressor and the regulator. The air is pretty well cooled down by the time in reaches the regulator. The trap in the regulator takes care of any moisture that may accumulate on a really humid day. Plus the added hose combined with the 12 foot length ( extra long) airbrush hose gives me the ability to reach many parts of the layout for scenery work without moving the whole set up from the workbench.

Commerical arrtists who do photo work with an airbrush use tanks of CO2, which is totally dry, to run their airbrushes because they cannot afford to ruin a one-of-a-kind piece of artwork, but that's expensive. For model work a compressor, a tank(if desired), a feed line and a regulator is entirley adequate....OK for T-Shirts too!!!!

:D
 

Vic

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Cidchase....Paint Problems

Hi Cid, never experienced the problem with lack of gloss before. In using lacqurer based paint such as Floquil or ScaleCoat I would get a "sandpaper" finish sometimes but that was my doing as I had to learn the right ratio of thinner to paint. The paint was drying before it hit the surface to be painted.

For the last several years I have been using nothing but Poly Scale Paints (not Polly S which is latex). Man what a difference!!!:D :D :D You absolutley cannot "screw up" with them and WHAT A FINISH!!!!! So smooth you can decal right over a flat finish with no problem and then use their flat finish to hide the decal shine. No smell either, drys in minutes, and is rock hard once its set.

BTW if I want a bright and shiney finish like on a new automobile I use plain old Testors PLA enamel thinned with lighter fluid.
 

Vic

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Errol....What Kind?

Hi Errol, I don't know about the gravity feed brushes....never had one. In all honesty I thinks that they all use suction weather top, side or bottom fed.:D The only top fed brush I have seen around here is at the bakery and they use food coloring to decorate birthday cakes!!!! One of the Paache models....the really "pro" model uses an air driven impeller to "drive" the paint thru the brush. It's only about $600 US!!!!! and they custom build each one!!!! Want one???:D :D ;) Seriously there are lot of good brushes out there but I have been with Paache for years and years and just haven't looked at anything else.:D :)