Windows without interiors on aircraft

[flpaperguy]

In a recent aircraft "Model Build" thread (https://www.zealot.com/threads/modelart-f117-desert-storm-1-48-scale.182405/ ) , Zathros suggested cutting out windows on aircraft without interiors and adding plastic windows. Then blacking out the interior.

I am thinking about trying this technique on a very simple aircraft model I will be starting shortly. It is a 1/50 scale model of the Lockheed Have Blue designed by Model Kertas. This model has no detailing, except for very basic landing gear. So, I think it needs something extra. The problem is part #2 (see the red arrow in the photo below) is almost all windows. The part would loose its integrity if the window areas were cut out. I wonder if gluing plastic on top of the paper windows would work, and, if so, what glue I should use? I have seen several posts that state Super Glue will damage thin plastic so it won't work.

 

[Rhaven Blaack]

You can use UHU glue. However, use it sparingly on the edges only. If you have never used UHU glue, I have to warn you that the glue will get "stringy" and "webby" when using it. So, I would strongly suggest practicing with it and getting use to how it reacts when using it, prior to using it on your final project.

 

[Revell-Fan]

Yep, that was the idea I hade when I made the care center. But on my model the windows were so tiny that I skipped the idea.

 

[Revell-Fan]

I wonder if gluing plastic on top of the paper windows would work, and, if so, what glue I should use? I have seen several posts that state Super Glue will damage thin plastic so it won't work.

No super glue. Use double-sided tape on the edges, not on the complete face itself.

 

[Revell-Fan]

Elmer's / white glue will work, too. But use it sparingly so that it does not spill over the part when you press it toward the frame.

 

[Revell-Fan]

Use part 2 as a stencil. Trace it onto a piece of clear sheet. You may use leftover packaging material, acetate sheet or PP (polypropylen). Anything thin will do. Then slightly score the middle line with a cutter and bend the part. Then stick the printed frame onto double-sided tape. Carefully cut out the windows, paint the edges and place the frame part over the clear part. Align the frame at the mountain fold in the middle. Trim all excess. If this is too difficult make a new one but cut the clear sheet a bit shorter. If the frame disintegrates into several parts attach the struts separately and paint the cutting seams. Attach the finished cockpit piece with white glue. Apply only on the edges; this is called "edge-gluing". To achieve a more substantial effect you may add another frame on top but as @zathros said one layer will do on an F-117.

 

[zathros]

ZIP DRY works very well. I stuck a paper clip to a piece of plastic with it. It is non-Toxic, and will not yellow when it ages, as it contains no lignin. The way I used ZIP DRY is to put a tiny dab ob the points I wish to attach, put it together, then separate and as the matrix forms, clamp it back together. That method seems to give the best bond without the thickness of it causing a gap.

I don't use any kind of Crazy Glue on models, firstly, it builds up Cyanide n your system, and the fumes will destroy plastic windows, leaving a film that clouds the interior.

I used Crazy Glue, with an accelerator chemical, to fix a pulley that I chipped a piece off of on an M.G. 1275 engine I was working on. That cast iron pulley has lasted for almost 35 years so far.