Soldering Track

[kf4jqd]

This morning, I went to my local hardware store. While I was walking around. I saw some solder paste with flus in it. "What a good idea to use for soldering track!" I thought. I tried it and was very impressed!

Here's what I did. I cleaned the rail joiner and end of the track. I applied a little bit of paste on the end of the rail and in the channel of the joiner. I then used my 30 watt soldering iron and heated the rail. DO NOT lay the iron on the solder paste! Once the paste starts to bubble, remove the iron. Whipe clean with a damp clothe. I found soldering the track in sections of 2 was best.

Here's some pictures of my work.

Andy

 

[hooknlad]

Nice Job !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[Doc Holliday]

Sorry to rain on your parade, but unfortunately you probably used the wrong type of paste/flux. I'd bet almost anything that any soldering paste you buy in a hardware store is intended for plumbing applications, such as copper pipe, and is not intended for electrical connections. Over time it will corrode the joint.
Doc

 

[Squidbait]

It is indeed a pre-tinning paste for copper pipe for potable water. It's about 70% tin, and is caustic, so it's an acid flux.

It might work in the short term, but in the long-term, it's probably going to corrode and oxidize the joint.

 

[kf4jqd]

You are right! I am wrong!:curse: I redone the track. I did solder it though. This time I used electronic flux you get at Radio Shack. I gobbed alot of it to the jail jpoiner. Then I heated it up and applies solder. It sucked it up! It's still a nice solder joint as in the picture.

Andy

 

[Russ Bellinis]

I think just to be safe, I would dilute some baking soda in water and brush it over the joints where you put the paste. The baking soda solution will neutralize any acid that may be left on the joint from the flux. Follow it up with some tuner cleaner to clean up the residue.