Rivet Punch Question

Discussion in 'Scratchin' & Bashin'' started by Mountain Man, Nov 13, 2008.

  1. Mountain Man

    Mountain Man Active Member

    Any N-scalers know what size rivet punch to use? Are they commercially made, or is there something I can modify?

    All input appreciated, except references to the light at the end of the tunnel.

  2. Dave1905

    Dave1905 Member

    Another option is rivet "decals". A company called Archer Fine Transfers sells decals that have small drops of resin at regular intervals. They sell sheets of various sizes and spacings. The smaller spacings would be a finer size and spacing than you could ever hope to get with a punch.


    Dave H.
  3. nkp174

    nkp174 Active Member

    That is a very handy product!

    thanks Dave.
  4. Dave Harris

    Dave Harris Member

    One thing to remember about rivets--- in HO OR N scale , for that matter in most any scale we model in, rivets would be so small as to be invisable if actual scale size. We put them in because we know they should be there & our eye accepts them regardless of their unscale size --- unless they are grossely just TOO big.
  5. Mountain Man

    Mountain Man Active Member

    Thanks Dave. I asked because my layout requires a number of riveted iron stgructures, and I don't think they will look right if there isn't at least a hint of rivets there someplace.

    I understand and agree about the visibility in N-scale, but the moment I photograph something, a lot more detail becomes visible than what would be seen by the naked eye.

    BTW - does anyone know why we say that? I've always wondered.

    Just went to the site, Dave. Outstandiong! Thanks again. :cool:

    Honey? You know when you asked me what I wanted for Christmas? Honey?
  6. 60103

    60103 Pooh Bah

    50 years ago, Model Railroader commented that while some details were too small to be modelled in scale (I think they were talking brake wheels), they were too prominent to be left off.
    Most scale rivets are probably less than the thickness of the layer of paint over them. They become noticeable with side lighting that creates shadows.

    I sat beside one modeller who was putting bolt heads on a model by drilling a hole, inserting a length of plastic rod, and cutting it off above the surface. (This was O scale.)
  7. Mountain Man

    Mountain Man Active Member

    I once modelled an Allied Alligator converted to be used as a radio controlled carrier for a one-ton mattress charge againt bunkers and walls on the Niormandy beachs, in 1/35th scale.

    I made my rivets for the added armor plate by drilling small holes, stretching sprue, inserting small lengths into the holes and clipping them all to the same length, and then slowly and carefully approaching each one with a soldering gun on low heat. The heat softened the plastic and allowed it to shrink down into a rivet head, snug against the hull. Beautiful effect, because they were clearly visible and the airgunned paint revealed the tiny crevices where they met the metal hull.

    Of course, there were a couple of hundred of the @#$%&* things altogether, plus the telescoping carrying arms made out of metal tubing that actually telescoped, plus the detonating device, radio antennae and scratchbuilt mattress charge, plus an entirely scratchbuilt seawall and bunker and some sundry other bits and pices, some of which also had rivets and welds, but it did win a prize for Original Scratchbuilt Armor.

    Frankly, I never want to do that again. wall1

    The decals will be perfect. Mucho gracias.
  8. sumpter250

    sumpter250 multiscale modelbuilder

    The Archer, AR88014 set would probably be the best for N scale, the rivets are 0.008", which converts to 1.25" full size.
  9. nkp174

    nkp174 Active Member

    In O scale, you definitely can get away with stuff that is impossible in smaller scales. I usually drill out the holes for my NBWs and have made my own NBWs in a few special circumstances. I don't see how I could have created the QPs on my paycar in HO short of 100% brass construction.

    I'm looking forward to my foray into 1:20.3 to see what can be done there.

    Lacking rivets is far worse for the illusion than over sized rivets.

    I recall seeing the Yosemite RR modeler replacing his water tower and a few other riveted structures with new structures detailed with rivet decals (just black ink dots, not resin dots like the ones mentioned here). I thought his replacement was a huge step down visually...since the rivets became too defined and produced no shadows/reflections.

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