Discussion in 'WarHammer40k' started by Faschist Hippy, Sep 23, 2013.

  1. Faschist Hippy

    Faschist Hippy New Member

    This may be in the wrong place to post if so then I apologize.

    But what paint do you guys use to repaint your 40k card models??

    I've got plenty of Citadel Paints but I'm a bit concerned about what to prime the model with.

    Would i get away with just using a Army Painter Spray or would that just warp the model.

  2. zathros

    zathros -----SENIOR---- Administrator

    Try spraying consecutive light layers of clear coat. When you have built up enough, then paint it. The paper should be sealed by the clear coats. :)
  3. Vger1981

    Vger1981 Member

    Hi, I'm using Humbrol or Revell classic enamels with no problem, but it's good to have large parts laminated in any case. Few layers of clear coat (very thinned) applied with big soft brush also clean up fuzzy edges. Just watch vhat you are using, (enamels, acrylics) for base, color, coat, it's better to work with one medium. Don't use water based primer, water+paper=bad surprise, if you do, just do it as Zathros said, more thin layers, not one heavy. Good luck!
  4. silveroxide

    silveroxide Well-Known Member

    If you look at most of my threads, you will notice that I hand paint most of my models. I laminated heavy, which helps in maintaining the integrity of the parts. For large projects, ie: Baneblade, I will use regular automotive grey primer using at least three coats of light spray. As you already know, primer is a great base for humbrol, revell, GW citadel and off the shelf acrylic paints in tubes. The Baneblade I made, I handpainted the whole project in water based black acrylics as a base, then I hand painted over that and Olive green. Remember, that the base will dictate how the color is going to be in the long run. Red primer is great for Blood Ravens and Grey for The wolfs. Experiment but be sure the paper is thick enough to withstand the water based colors. One sheet of regular cardstock will warp in parts that are large, while it will hold if the part are small. Experiment and have fun. At least paper is forgiving, make a mistake, print out another sheet or in worse case scenario, start over. Imagine making a mistake with a GW Baneblade, it will cost you a bunch, but a cardstock baneblade, only the irritation of starting over. Enjoy and see you around the forum.


    I use sandable auto primer and paint with Citadel.
  6. mcusanelli

    mcusanelli Member

    I use Krylon triple-thick clear gloss to seal the paper, or Testors gloss or flat clear finish. Then you should be able to use acrylics ( like Folk-Art, or Dlta Ceramcoat, ect) or enamels, I've had no problems. Then, if you like, you can seal your finished work with the same spray, I would reccomend you do as it preserves the work, and strengthens the surface. And at this point, you can even use Future acrylic floor finish, also called Johnson's Clear. This is my favorite as it has saved some really bad screw - ups on my part, like spraying a coat of Krylon on a damp humid day, turning my model's surface cloudy grey!
    You can airbrush Future, but I prefer to brush it on, BUT only on a paper model that has been sealed with Krylon, or Testors, ect. Found that out the hard way, of course. Sharpie permanent markers can also be used to color parts too.
  7. zathros

    zathros -----SENIOR---- Administrator

    Moisture really clouds up paint, it is especially notable on clear coats.

    30 years ago, I made a model of a little sailboat i had. I still have it. After I built it, I took it outside and poured liquid crazy glue, the really thin stuff, all over the model and made sure that none of it pooled anywhere. After it dried, it was as stiff as glass! I then painted it. It still survives, though on of the seats fell out, and I know it is around here. I would never do that again as cyanoacrylates (Super Glues) are so bad to work with, and even though I did it outside, if you can smell it, you are breathing in the fumes. I do not use Crazy Glue for any modeling now. I have used it for fixing some automotive parts, when nothing else would work.

    Sharpies are great, but they do fade under U.V. rays, in my experience. :)
  8. fleetsailor1981

    fleetsailor1981 New Member

    Glad I found this topic as I was getting ready to post the same question. Thank you all for that info
  9. Chrispysurfer

    Chrispysurfer Member

    Great post guys!! I haven't been able to build in over year while in school but I drop in every now and then and see the great work. I haven't painted yet but really want to try. In the past I have used markers. For some things I like the black edging, it almost gives it a comic book feel.
  10. Vger1981

    Vger1981 Member

    For the edges it's good to have school water colours set, easy to use and you can mimic any colour tones in few seconds, just do not use too much water. Nice, retouched edges will improve your model a lot. :thumb:
  11. foxgoth

    foxgoth New Member

    thanks should have found this tread before starting mine :oops:sorry. Im going down the superglue route for added strength ,I have a large pot with its own brush for fitting a new rope to the door of our logburner so I will try that with a face mask.

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