This might take some work.
When I first saw this thread, I though that this would be the typical problem with power routing switches, where gaps have to be cut strategically in the two rails coming out of the frog if they don't belong to a dead end siding.
However, after actually reading the post , it seems like we are dealing instead with the switches not being "DCC Friendly". Let me begin by saying I use DC exclusively on my own RR (see logging in eastern TN. on the DG CC & W RR in1928 over in the logging, mining and industrial section); but have exposure to DCC at our local club (see Bill and Tom's excellent adventure. . . . . also in the logging mining and industrial subsection).
on the traditional power routing switch (and I believe that includes the Peco switches unless the design has changed in the many years since I used them exclusively) is the point assembly and the frog are an electrical unit. thus when the point contacts one stock rail, it makes electrical contact, so that that point, the frog, and the opposite point, are all getting power from the point that is touching the stock rail.
The problem occurs as a conductive wheel rolls between the opposite open point it momentarily touches the point and the stock rail on which it is rolling, causing a momentary short, which is benign in a DC system , but will trip the hyper sensitive circuit breaker needed to protect those powerful , complicated and expensive DCC components.
What is needed is a different electrical design for the switch. Unfortunately, these needed changes negate some of the great advantages of a Peco switch. It would be very handy if you had a switch that wasn't installed yet, to experiment with, and I hope you have a good soldering tool, and good soldering skills. If you don't, you will need them in this hobby eventually, and I will be happy to coach you as beast as I can.
the first thing we need to do is to isolate each point from the frog electrically. we do this by cutting a gap through the rail between the frog and the hinge point of the each point.. then Ideally you could run a jumper wire from each stock rail to the adjacent point rail on the frog side of the point hinge. ( I hope you are following my terminology-some of which I may have made up). now each point rail is electrically wedded to it's adjacent stock rail, and that pesky wheel can't cause a short.
Unfortunately, we also have an un powered frog - or a dead short, if we havent also cut through the jumpers Peco molds into the ties under the switch to confuse us. so the next thing we have to do is hook the switch up to a ground throw or a switch machine that has an electrical switch made on it to power the frog appropriately. This is a bummer, as the thing I like the most about peco switches is not needing a ground throw or a switch machine.
On my own RR, where most of my track is hand laid, I use little DPDT (double pole double throw) electrical switches to make home made ground throws, that can power the frog. comercial ground theows with electrical contacts are also available, but in any case ther is a lot of work involved in fixing this problem,
Good luck, and to save the trouble, when buying a switch, research your optiond to see if the switch is DCC Freindly.
Bill Nelson