New Engine Breakin?

Discussion in 'N / Z Scale Model Trains' started by Mrplow123, Jul 28, 2006.

  1. Mrplow123

    Mrplow123 Member

    So I got my new Atlas Dash 8-40 today, can't play with it, I mean "test it" untill I get off work:cry: . I am just wondering what is the best way to break in a new engine? Should I just run it or is there a better way? I know when I was doing the RC car thing, we would break our new electric motors in on a dyno to seat the brushes.. I know that when we did that the motors would run harder and last alot longer. Obviosly I am not going to put it on a dyno, but do i just run it at full speed a few laps? Or maybe Half speed? Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.
  2. shaygetz

    shaygetz Active Member

    If it's a kit, I run it on the bench for a half hour in both directions. For RTR engines I run them on the club layout in both directions for a half hour each way. Then I clean and lube them.
  3. pnolan48

    pnolan48 New Member

    Diesels really don't need break-in periods, although a half hour in each direction at varying speeds won't hurt a bit. Steamers in N gauge need about 20 hours of break-in to reach their full potential.
  4. LoudMusic

    LoudMusic Member

    What about old engine break in? I've got a small group of diesels that have been sitting in a box for about ten years - is there anything special I should do before I apply voltage?
  5. pnolan48

    pnolan48 New Member

    I'd suggest a thorough cleaning and lube first. The cleaning includes removing all the oxidation from the wheels and contact points. I'd suggest 91% isopropryl alcohol and lots of elbow grease. Then put them on the track at max voltage. You'll probably have to coax them along for a few minutes. Eventually they'll start running.
  6. 60103

    60103 Pooh Bah

    I try to put a new engine on a loop of track at about half speed for half an hour in each direction. (There's a use for that loop of EZ track!). I also try to run it equal time pointing clockwise and counter-clockwise, so that it gets run in for both right and left turns. (should have a fig, 8)
    Local company makes rollers that can go on the track for stationary running.
    Probably should have ammeter and voltmeter hooked up, but I can never find them in time.
  7. 3railguy

    3railguy Member

    Atlas claims to pre-lube their engines during assembly and recomends not lubing them until they really need it. This is because oil and grease are dirt and hair magnets with N scale and you want as little lube as possible on the moving parts. When I first get a new Atlas engine, I usually check it and like to put a tiny dab of conducta lube on the motor bearings with a toothpick no matter what. Then break them in for a couple hours by running them light in both directions(no cars in tow). I like Atlas conduta lubes because if they sling around, they are less prone to cause electrical contact problems. An ailment N scale engines are notorious for. After lubing an engine, I run it in both directions for 1/2 hour with the shell off. This is so any loose oil slings out of harms way. I also wipe the truck bottoms with a rag to remove any loose oil that could eventually end up on the track
  8. Mrplow123

    Mrplow123 Member

    Thanks for all of the input and suggestions. I got it going and ran it like everyone said. I am beyond amazed of the quality of this engine. It is hard to believe there are better quality manufacturers out there. I am soooo happy with this Atlas engine, I don't see the need to buy anything more expensive. I guess I am just so wowed by it because all my other engines are quite honestly JUNK. my other engines require more then 50% throttle on my power pack just to get them moving. So you can imagine the look on my face when this one started creeping at 10%:thumb: . Finally I can go across turnouts without having to floor it. And it is so quiet at anything under40% throttle, that when it goes into my tunnel, I keep thinking "crap it must have stalled". My other engines sound like ****ed off grizzly bears when there are in the mountain. Now I just need to go to the train store tomorrow to find a solution to my coupler and derailment issues.:rolleyes: If anyone cares to help me on this issue, see this thread.

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