More Atlas switch thoughts

Discussion in 'HO Scale Model Trains' started by Gary S., Apr 18, 2007.

  1. Gary S.

    Gary S. Senior Member

    As I learn more and more, and gain experience, I have found another aspect of the atlas code 83 custom line switches that worries me. Here's a pic showing where my concern lies. The little plastic nubbins that hold the points don't look very robust to me. Looks like they could easily wear or break off. If they did, I suppose I could tap a hole in the plastic and put a short screw down through to take the place of the nubbin.

    What tipped me off to this was one of my installed switches was not acting right. I noticed that the plastic of the throwbar was jammed right up against the point rail instead of having a gap. Either the little plastic nubbin wasn't formed right or the point had slipped off of it. I don't know because the switch is already glued down.

    One more thing to be concerned about:cry: Seems the nubbins should be a bit longer, and a little more stout.

    Anyone else have any experience or problems with this?

    Attached Files:

  2. MilesWestern

    MilesWestern Active Member

    I have. I think the Caboose Industries Ground Throws do break the "nubbins" off the switches..Also, I agree that they should be stouter. However the switches seem to work fine w/o the nubbins in place..hmm. :rolleyes:
  3. Gary S.

    Gary S. Senior Member

    On mine, the wheel flanges were catching and hopping over the plastic where it was against the point. I exactoed it to an angle to give the flange some room to ride through.
  4. NCMRailroad

    NCMRailroad Member

    ATLAS switches...

    Hi Gary,
    You're right about the lack of workmanship in regards to the ATLAS switches. I have had nothing BUT problems with the 6 or so A/switches I have installed on my layout. However, saying that I also found it to my advantage a couple times since I laid my track. The lack of properly "sealing" these points you are talking about helps reposition the throw bar to the opposite side of the switch. Sometimes this can be a good thing and it works just great but takes a bit of patients.
    Try using a tiny dab of silicone to keep the plastic throw arm and metal connections from having any play. If you use a hard drying glue like crazy glue it may break off or bind the supposably moving parts together....Perminantly!
    Just a thought!
    PS...If I knew then what i know now, I would never have purchased the ATLAS switches. Peco would have been my choice...hands down!
  5. MasonJar

    MasonJar It's not rocket surgery

    I agree with NCMR that the sole advantage afforded by the loose fitting throw bar is the possibility of turning it to the other side. I had to do that once or twice with my old snap switches. 'Course, most other turnouts come with a throw bar that extends out both sides - and you just trim off the one you do not want...

    You can tighten the "nubbin" like you would a rivet - take a standard/slot screw driver, and push it into the nubbin, spreading it out a bit like the end of a soft rivet. If you want to glue it use something with a bit of flex, like Walthers Goo. But be careful (very!) not to get any where it is not needed.

  6. Nomad

    Nomad Active Member

    Why does the throwbar have to be free moving? Counldn't you replace it with a pc board tie and solder the points? That's what I did years ago handlaying turnouts and they worked ok.

  7. Gary S.

    Gary S. Senior Member

    good thought Loren, that comforts me somewhat. If mine go bad, they can be fixed.

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