Instant Roadbed

Discussion in 'Track Planning' started by joeymanko, Jan 21, 2006.

  1. joeymanko

    joeymanko New Member

    Hello Everyone!

    I am ready to put my roadbed on my board (4X14). I just recently saw an ad for AMI instant roadbed. They claim no gluing and it is easy to implement. I am using Gargraves tracks and will be bending some. Has anybody used this? Is it worth a try? I could always remain safe and go with the cork roadbed, or should I try something new?


  2. sumpter250

    sumpter250 multiscale modelbuilder

    I sold a box of AMI Instant roadbed just had been in the store for over two years. Draw your own conclusion.
  3. sammyd

    sammyd Member

    I like it.
    If it's not commonly used it's probably because it's not pushed in the "how to" books and because most folks learned to use cork.

    I like the way it deadens sound.
    to experiment I laid a 22" loop and just placed the ballast on half and glued down the other half. You can tell exactly when the loco hits the area that was glued down.
    I think the glue makes the track part of the foam and turns the whole 4x4 chunk of foam into a resonator.

    I also like the way it holds track without pins or nails. You have to press down pretty good but it holds very well once the sticky stuff does its work.

    It is a bit costly at 23 bucks for 30 feet but you have to weigh the advantages of labor savings against the cost.

    I have a layout going up around the living room and plan on using the AMI roadbed exclusively.
  4. sumpter250

    sumpter250 multiscale modelbuilder

    I have my reasons for not being a great fan of instant roadbed, but I'm also willing to check out the learning curve, when the opportunity presents itself.
    I like spiking track because, if there is any problems with the trackwork, I can remove spikes, adjust the track, and respike, until all the bugs have been worked out. Then I ballast, and the track stays put.
    How easy is it to "adjust" the trackwork, with instant roadbed?, and how solid is the trackwork that is set in instant roadbed?
  5. sammyd

    sammyd Member

    I found it to be pretty forgiving if you catch your mistakes early and don't have anything ballasted.
    I pressed the track down lightly the first time around because it was the first time I had worked with flex track and I was able to pull it up and adjust as I cut and fit. But once I was sure the curve was right and the joints looked good I really pressed it down and haven't had any trouble.
    I think if I was doing anything under 22"r I would drill out the holes in the flex track and pin it just to be safe though, there is a bit of spring in the track. But maybe weighting it for a day or 2 would work as well.

    It lays down pretty easy but was a little difficult to pull up if I was off my mark. So I slowed down a little and it went OK.

    It holds ballast fairly well if you tamp it in good. But I don't think it gets as "heaping" looking as glued ballast.

    I first looked at the stuff because I was going to do something with the Atlas True Track and if I wanted to use a decent switch (say a 6 or 8) I would have had to use regular track with some sort of roadbed. The cork was a tad bit high and the AMI was closer I think it's 1/16" shorter.
  6. Clerk

    Clerk Active Member

    I have it on my layout now and never again in the future.
  7. Chessie1973

    Chessie1973 Member

    I used the AMI stuff on my old 4x8 layout and it worked ok I suppose. However I do plan to use the Woodland Scenics roadbed on my new layout I am planning.

    The AMI stuff never sets. It stays flexible and allows the ballast to come loose very easily. I was constantly having to patch the ballasting. I finally did a "normal" ballasting job over the stuff to get the gravel to stay put.

    However the roadbed is great for making paved roads using nothing but the roadbed and good old play sand. lay your road down and then sprinkle the sand over it. Then you use a rolling pin or similar to push the sand into the roadbed stuff and you have a nearly perfect looking paved road that you can use dilluted paints to stain for things like oil and grime as well as putting road markings using stencils and an airbrush. It also makes it really easy to make things like potholes and ruts for that old worn out look on roads.

    Works great for paved roads. Not so great for rails though.
  8. 13Mtrainer

    13Mtrainer Member

    currently i have WS roadbed on my layout. i love the stuff because it is so cheap its easy to work with and i don't have any problem pulling it up.

    i saw the AMI in my LHS but then a guy told me it was horrable and expensive so i saw the WS and it was only $8 for 24 feet!

    i have not ballasted yet so i could not tell you if it hold ballast but from a couple of tests on some scraps it seems to work just fine.
  9. I used AMI instant Roadbed on my door layout.

    Its good stuff, but there is one thing about it: BALLAST *immediately* don't wait even a couple of hours, as the roadbed will absorb any and all dust in the area and become non-sticky. Ballast will tend to look a little thin, but that won't be a problem if you're modelling older track (eg, not freshly deposited)

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