Bracket mounting ideas?

Discussion in 'HO Scale Model Trains' started by iis612, Mar 20, 2008.

  1. iis612

    iis612 Member

    I am kicking a few thoughts around...
    What would be the best way to use brackets on a concrete wall?
    I have an impact drill, and I was thinking of placing plastic screw anchors into the concrete.
    As for the brackets, some of the areas of my layout are going to be wider than the standard 24-30" range Armstrong suggests.
    Since I am going to be building on a foam base rather than ply, I was thinking that I would use a 24" bracket and attach some 1x2 on the top, making a cantilevered bracket. Since the height of the concrete portions of the walls are not all the same, I will have to "customize" a few of the brackets.
    I have yet to do the math, but I think this method will prove less expensive than an all wood setup.
    Any thoughts? Did I bump my headwall1 in thinking this would work?
  2. nachoman

    nachoman Guest

    it the wall oured concrete or concrete block? I have attached brackets to concrete block walls using those blue concrete screws They work pretty well. i would recommend first screwing a 1x4 to the wall, then fastening the bracket to the 1x4. The reason for this is that it is diffiuclt to drill into concrete without having the bit wander. And since you need the brackets to be precicely located, you can locate the 1x4s as close as you can get, and then it is much easier to screw the brackets to the 1x4s and adjust them if you need to.

  3. Russ Bellinis

    Russ Bellinis Active Member

    Check your home supply store (Home Depot, Lowes, Ace Hardware, or what ever) for the various choices they have for concrete anchors. They have hardware for anchoring bolts and screws into concrete and other designs for anchoring hardware into cinder block. I suspect there are also anchors for use with red brick. I would second Kevin's suggestion of using the anchors to mount a 1x4 furring strip to the wall and then mount your brackets to the furring strip. Actually you will need 2 furring strips. one for each row of mounting screws for the brackets. For reinforcement for a foam base, I like luan door skin material. It is very thin, very smooth, and very strong. It is a bit flexible, but foam is not at all flexible. Laminate the foam to the luan with a water based adhesive, either white glue or carpenter's glue, and it will be both a light weight and very stiff base for your layout.
  4. stdguage

    stdguage Member

    I can second the recommendation to frame the garage/basement wall first. I would tend to go heavier than 1x4 material however. Even if you do not think so today, eventually you will be fishing electric cables or something through the framing. Try drilling for a phone cable edge-wise through 3/4 material. The std 2x4 framing lumber may be overkill if it is not also structural. I would suggest 2x2. Also, the bracket strength is partially transfering stresses into the attached framing, so again 1 by material is a bit thin.

    My thoughts on this are free and probably priced just about right!

  5. lester perry

    lester perry Active Member

    By the time you buy wall anchors and 1x4s a couple masonry bits and metal brackets you could frame up a wall with 2x3 on 24 inch center and forget all the time and work needed for attaching for same price with same result and easier to work with when you need an extra brace some where that you can't see now. also would give space for insulation if needed.
  6. Mountain Man

    Mountain Man Active Member

    There are several ways to attach furring strips to concrete walls:

    1. construction adhesive.

    2. lag bolts and anchors.

    3. concrete nails using a nail driver - uses .22 blanks.

    4. If overhead rafters are exposed, frame the wall and attach to overhead, attach at bottom to prevent shifting.

    **Wire the wall beforecovering it with anything. fishing wires through anything will try the patience of a saint. :cry: If you aren't sure what wiring you need, put conduit in and leave you options open.
  7. stuart_canada

    stuart_canada Member

    use concrete screws to attach the 1x4 to the wall at the height you desire, attach the bracks with screws to the wood gives you the room to level up and down depending on the floor if your plan is to run along a shelf along the wall
    if you jsut want to use metal brackets, tap con screws ( blue concrete screws) using a hammer drill to drill the holes
    lots of ways to attach the brackets, all depends on your load weight and how long you want to keep it attached to wall
  8. sgtcarl

    sgtcarl Member

    I have tried several methods mention aforhand. I prefer using a concrete bit, in a 3/8 drill, and then screwing lag bolts into the wall. You will need a good 3/8 sqaure drive ratchet, for best results. And, by the way, use a flat washer under the head of the lag bolts.

    Just my opnion, though.
  9. iis612

    iis612 Member

    After looking at my options, I have opted to use an epoxy. There are a few areas in the concrete that look to have too much aggregate, thus making it easier to damage the integrity of the wall.
    Can anyone recomend a good adhesive/epoxy?
  10. stuart_canada

    stuart_canada Member

    i would look at a construction glue, here in canada it is called pl 300 looks like caulking not sure if it will take the weight
  11. Russ Bellinis

    Russ Bellinis Active Member

    I noticed you are from Chicago. I haven't had any experience living in the snow country, but how warm is your basement in the winter? If you are going to want to heat the basement on winter or cool it in summer to make the layout room more enjoyable, a stud wall against the concrete, with insulation installed and then drywall will make the room a lot more comfortable and easier for climate control year around.
  12. RonP

    RonP Member of the WMRC

    From experiance there are many products available for this. However time and time again my method of construction wire hammered in beside a nail works great.

    The commercial product is called Tap Con

    adhesive is your descision use pl2000 I think it is called it is in the truck right now but I'm too lazy to go look.

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