I have a Bachmann Spectrum Class J 4-8-4 steam locomotive. The conection between the locomotive and tender is a pernamently attached piece of plastic(has screws to take it off, but you can see its harder than others to take apart). This plastic bar makes the steam engine very unflexible. If the track even has a slight bump in it, the front of the tender will raise up when the back of the locomotive goes over the bump and 9 times out of 10 the front wheels come back down and derail. Is there anyway to replace this connection so its more flexible. Thanks
Bachmann Spectrum NW 4-8-4 Class J
- Thread starter Nick8564
- Start date
Hi Nick -
Dunno why no replies here, so I'll try to help.
Firstly, I don't have the "J" & my B'mann's don't have that coupling - BUT - a piece of plastic or metal tubing ~1/2" long (just don't foul trackwork) attached to the tender w/a longer screw (& washer under the head, if needed to keep the bar in place) then drilling/reaming the connector-bar hole to be loose-fit on the tube should do it.
Lower the connector on the engine (in the same way or w/a washer or 2) enough so that the tender-end of the bar rides @ ~ the 1/2-way point on the tender's new post - should be enuff vertical movement so the engine doesn't lift the tender, just slides the bar up & down.
Ballpoint pen fillers are useful sources of small tubes, pump spray bottles, etc, or most hobby shops carry brass & alum tubing in many sizes.
Ream the hole w/a sharp Xacto blade if no drill motor, or turn a drill by hand e-z enuff for this job.
Please note that I'm *NOT* curmudgeon enough to suggest that good trackwork would obviate the prob!
Hope this helps.
regards,
Dunno why no replies here, so I'll try to help.
Firstly, I don't have the "J" & my B'mann's don't have that coupling - BUT - a piece of plastic or metal tubing ~1/2" long (just don't foul trackwork) attached to the tender w/a longer screw (& washer under the head, if needed to keep the bar in place) then drilling/reaming the connector-bar hole to be loose-fit on the tube should do it.
Lower the connector on the engine (in the same way or w/a washer or 2) enough so that the tender-end of the bar rides @ ~ the 1/2-way point on the tender's new post - should be enuff vertical movement so the engine doesn't lift the tender, just slides the bar up & down.
Ballpoint pen fillers are useful sources of small tubes, pump spray bottles, etc, or most hobby shops carry brass & alum tubing in many sizes.
Ream the hole w/a sharp Xacto blade if no drill motor, or turn a drill by hand e-z enuff for this job.
Please note that I'm *NOT* curmudgeon enough to suggest that good trackwork would obviate the prob!
Hope this helps.
regards,
I have 2 ten wheeler and 2 consolidation, i found simular problem just moving about in the yard, the stiffness of the loco-tender wires and the tight fit of the drawbar cause the tender to ride up the drawbar pin as the loco corners, lifting the front tender trucks which then strike the switch frogs cornerwise and cause a short and shut down my DCC. carefull reliving of the drawbar hole and little graphite lube, and a little bend in the wires to create some downpressure seems to have solved it.
Hi....I ran into the same problem with my Connie...There was just too much wire hanging between engine and tender. I opened the engine up and shoved some of the wire into the engine. That seemed to help.
I have a similar problem to the one that steamhead mentioned with my Bachmann 4-6-0. The wires between the tender and loco hang down and catch on the switch frogs. Have you checked for this condition?
I have the J, but it may not be the one you've got. I think mine is the B'mann silver series J...I'll have to pull it out and check. She was in the 'shop' for a detail upgrade when we moved and I haven't pulled her out since. As Xmas and other family activities take priority, it may be a while before I do look at it. Good luck with your solution, whatever it may be.