Arabella & Mary Rose (sailing ship-russian site)

Discussion in 'Ship & Watercraft Models' started by Tirta, Apr 20, 2005.

  1. Tirta

    Tirta Member

    Hello All,

    I am new to this paper modelling stuff but I am very interested at sailing ship model.
    Have you built these ships:

    They look very nice and I have translate the russian into english.
    However there is no clear instruction on how to set up the masts and sails.
    Do I use wood for the mast and cloth for the sail? What kind of cloth? What kind of wood? How long
    is it? what is the diameter? How do I attach the sail to mast?

    I would be very glad if you could give me some suggestions.
    And if some of you have built them, could you post some of the pictures please.
    Thank you.

    Best regards,

  2. pbhawkin

    pbhawkin Member

    English translation copy


    I too have these ships and the Cruiser as well.
    I have not started them as yet.
    I am very interested in doing the 1896 Cruiser "Oslabya".
    I would like a copy of the English translation for these ships if that is possible?? This would be a great help.

  3. 46rob

    46rob Member

    I would use wooden dowels for the masts and spars. Taper them to get a realistic shape. Sails are optional--most serious model ship builders leave them off, as they require extra rigging and hide a lot of the intricate work (including rigging) that the model has done. I suggest finding a book that details model ship rigging for ships of these periods...should be something at your local library, or, a good hobbly shop that carries wooden ship models will have several publications, or could recommend one.
  4. Tirta

    Tirta Member

    Hi Peter,

    This is the english translation:

    Reading captivating novel, we, unfortunately, can compose about the construction of ship itself, about its combat and sail armament the general idea itself. Its length - not more than 30 m. three masts with six by sail widths ensured to ship decent speed, but the two-level arrangement of guns from each board - sufficient firepower in order to enter into the battles with where larger Spanish galionami.

    It is here according to this meager data, according to ancient engravings and figures of the ships of those times, and also to the descriptions of combat and commercial it is ship in other historical novels let us try to nevertheless reconstruct the appearance Of "arabelly".

    Probably, after falling onboard this vessel, we, first of all, they would astonish not to the guns, which shoot on some 50... 100 m, not to his primitive sails and to anchors. The work of engravers on the tree first of all would rush into the eyes, the artists. The ships of those times equipped with cabins with the excellent windows, doors and walls, made not simply from smooth boards, but those still and decorated with splendid thread.

    Furthermore, the masters of those times knew how so to paint by their colored paints, that was created the impression, as if you are located not on board the warship, but somewhere in the artistic gallery. Aboard the contemporary ships, by the way, this tradition was preserved. Only thread, pictures, expensive decorative finishing of panels moved from the deck inside the cabins.

    But let us return to "arabelle". We on a scale 1:100 have performed its paper model. All developments are placed on sheets 1 - 4. We do not advise to immediately be sufficient at the scissors. We recommend at first attentively to be introduced to the assembly drawings, to clarify for itself the order of assembling separate it is main, the sequence of connection of large and fine details. Let you it not confuse, that the total number of developments is more than nine tens.

    By a smaller number we hardly could transmit the characteristic features of the ships of those times, and their larger number, on the contrary, would substantially complicate construction, would require for the assembling much time and would frighten away impatient modelers. But here you dismantled the construction Of "arabelly", which is called, on the bones. Prepare working place, tools, glue (bustilat or PVA) - however, about all this we constantly speak on the pages of periodical. Here now it is possible to undertake the scissors

    After cutting out sequential detail, do not forget to place its number from the back side. We recall that the details, designated on the sheets only by the object lines (they are not painted inside), one should stick on the thin cardboard. In essence this of detail, that form the frame of ship. Their additional glueing with the cardboard will considerably increase the strength of housing, and paper skin it is onboard and deck not it will cave in in the hands. The basis of housing compose longitudinal detail 1 and cross ribs 15, 16, 18, 20 - 22.

    Between themselves them connects not only slit lock, but also cover plates 2 - 10. Details 14, 17, 19, 20, 23 stick on the outer duct to the edges. Subsequently their valves will reliably retain onboard skin. The installation of fastening under the masts completes work with the frame of ship - this of detail 11. But it is necessary to cut from masts themselves (detail 79, 81 and 84) the rods of conical shape. Their height you will drive on more lately on the place, and diameters are such: from below - 5 mm, above - 4 mm. the lower ends of rods one should split and on glue plant into the grooves of detail 1

    Thoroughly prover'te assembling the frame of housing. You will ascertain that all connections are executed correctly. Fix their position and give to glue as one should be gripped. But thus far it dries, take up the preparation of the details, which compose spacecraft skin, its deck, the deck structures and combat armament. Let us begin from the skin. It is comprised from details 24, 25, 26 and 27. Accurately cut out by their scissors and thoroughly "roll" against the edge of table top in order to give the proper sagging. You will apply skin to the frame and will ascertain that edge they will be joined without the noticeable clearances. But now grease valves by glue and rapidly you will plant on your places. Give to glue to be gripped.

    Cut circular openings under the muzzles of guns by razor blade. On top above each opening nakleyte ports (detail 98) The guns, established on the deck, are collected from details 56. The stems (in the figures there are not them) it is necessary to prepare independently. Cut out 28 paper billets with the size of y2khy0 mm. each from one side grease by glue you will twist along the long side into the small tube with an outer diameter of 3 mm. when glue it will dry, dip each stem into the black India ink. Eight are trunk nakleyte to the gun carriages (detail 56) - two guns you will more lately install on to the nose of ship, and six - on the upper open deck. From those remained 20 it is trunk 14 you will establish in the openings on the lower deck. Following stage - work with the deck. We focus your attention on the quality of conducting this stage of work. Here, as you see, is concentrated a basic quantity of large and fine details. Therefore work is conducted in the strictly defined sequence, otherwise least error can lead to the irreparable results. In deck details 42, 45, 51, 57 and 60 cut openings, bend on the place of their fastening between themselves and accurately you will join on to glue to the frame of ship. Further consecutively nakleyte to the deck of the details, which close nose and to fodder, that form anchor winch, anchor, gangway, stairs, bilge lattices, captain's bridge, stern gallery and the keel.At this point in the nose section it is necessary to establish inclined front mast. As you see, in the figures of the part of the masts, that come out from the housing, this the yet not final construction. It is necessary to still increase each mast to the short rods of cylindrical form. It is necessary to select experimentally their lengths, takeing into account the height of sails and parts mating between themselves. Between themselves the rods will be joined by flat surfaces on to glue and for the strength tighten by the turns of the thick threads, moistened by glue.

    By yards (detail 80, 86, 88 and 90) serve thin wooden rods as the diameter not of more than 2,5 mm. To the masts they are attached with yokes 63 and 64. Rope ladders - mated parts 68 and 69. It is possible to accurately cut out them and to stick in the finished form. However, to experienced modelers we recommend to use the proposed by developments as templates and with their aid to obtain more plausible construction. For this of detail 68 and 69 you will assume on the board and you will catch by small nails in those places, where the ropes tie to the deck and mast boards. Then stretch to the nails thick threads and on to glue connect them between themselves with transverse cotton steps. When glue is gripped, reticulated stairs without the special labor can be will be fastened on the deck and under the baskets on the masts.

    Matter after the sails (detail 93 - 98). Their developments are given on this page. More qualitative form will acquire model, if sail you cut from the white silk. But also thin white paper will look not more badly. True, one should remember that in the light paper of the sail in yr -two will acquire yellowish nuance. You will fasten sail according to their places. It will not interfere with still additionally connecting yards, lower ends of the sails with thick threads, as shown in drawings. The installation of flags completes the work on the model. Their three (details 72, 73 and 74). Cut out them on the outline, bend in the middle and skleyte the half between themselves, without having forgotten to establish flagstaffs - thin office pins. You will drive in their sharp ends at the small depth into the ends of masts.

    Mary Rose:
    "Mary Rose" - combat English karakka While the seamen of South Europe and Mediterranean already swam on enormous karakkakh and naves, the peoples of North Europe continued to use obsolete small koggi and khulki. This is why large impression on the severoyevropeyskikh ship-builders produced karakka "Peter from Danzig", which visited into several German ports. After a certain time similar vessels began to construct entire North Europe each, introducing into their construction numerous improvements. Typical karakka OF THE XV century had high(ly)-boardwide short housing and three masts with the bowsprit. Average mainmast bore enormous quadrangular straight sail. Nose mast had small square foresail, and stern was equipped with the so-called Latin sail. English karakki usually had composite masts with the sliding topmasts, which carry significant wind-resistance area. This made it possible to rapidly overhaul masts after severe Atlantic it was gale. Karakka had multistage superstructures on to nose and fodder, and also the boarding grids, which prevented enemy from falling on ship. They also protected people on the deck from the fragments of our own masts, destroyed by artillery fire of enemy. Armament on the first combat vessels consisted of many small-calibre instruments, located in the superstructures and thrown rock nuclei and pieces of iron up to the small distance. The caliber of artillery substantially increased to middle OF THE XV century, instruments began to subdivide into the heavy and the lungs. For positioning the heavy guns in the boards of ships they began to hack square windows - cannon ports. One of the first warships with the heavy artillery it was "Mary Rose". Karakka had seven anchors, two of which was basic. The seaworthiness of this vessel was low, similar type ships were inclined to overturn because of the traditional arrangement of light artillery on the high superstructures. Specifically, for this reason with the moderate breeze and agitation in the beginning of July 1545 it perished "Mary Rose".

    We propose to you to paste the simplified paper model of this ship on a scale 1:150. Prepare the necessary tools. They will be necessary by you: straight and manicure scissors, chopping knife with the sharp end for the slotting of the locked outlines inside the developments, square with the right angle, mold, thin awl, chisel with the wide blade and sharp knife. But from the materials prepare the copper wire with a diameter of 1,5 mm, glue PVA or bustilat, wooden straightgrained laths. The grid from the packing of fruits will approach for the boarding grid, but it is possible to use the gauze, preliminarily painted in the black or dark brown color. The black and brown threads of different thickness will approach for the tackle. But still prepare liners with thickness from 1 to 1,5 mm, whatman and colored paper. Blocks it is simplest to make from the beads of black color.

    Technical characteristic: Length on the water line, m 28 - 30 length on the keel, m 22,5 width are greatest, m of 12,3 sediments, m 3 displacement, t 1000 armaments: the heavy guns of 36 light guns 42 wind-resistance area, square meter 750 crew: the sailors of 415 soldiers 285

    Here now it is possible to take up work. Immediately let us be specified, that not all details of karakki take the final form. Because of the shortage of place on the pages of periodical the part of the details is depicted in the form of halves, for the missing parts it is necessary to finish building independently. For this transfer them to the thin cardboard, draw the missing part relative to the axis of symmetry, and only then boldly cut out. In you will come out the template, with which you will work further. The axis of the symmetry of detail on the drawing is depicted as dotted line. Of details on the supplementary sheet and the cover in the color preliminarily nakleyte by the wrong side to the colored paper or the whatman (color at your discretion) so that the finished model would not show multicolors by letters and numbers, printed on the back side of each page. For some detail, possibly, it is necessary to drive on on the place. First of all transfer to the cardboard by the thickness of 1 mm and cut out by the pairs of detail 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10 and detail I and II, and to the cardboard with the thickness of 1,2 mm - keel 12 and transom 14.

    Cut out upper deck 11. Nakleyte it to the cardboard with the thickness of 1,5 mm. cut in it all necessary openings. Subsequently before sticking detail in the place, previously cut in it all hatchways, windows and other openings. When the above-indicated details get dry, try to gather entire collection of housing, without cementing it. Attain the dense and correct fit of all details. Cut, if it is necessary, cut on the details, after which remove deck and under the opening of large hatchway vkleyte detail 13. In the same place you will install on it support for the mainmast, as shown in figure. Prover'te, everything is made correctly, and place on your place the upper deck. You will ascertain that the misalignments in the housing be absent. Deck can be temporarily fastened to the keel and the frames by pins. You will assume housing by keel upward, after placing anything under the middle part, and to be awl accurately smear by thick glue all joints. Thus far glue finally was not gripped, prover'te the correctness of assembling model. Leave model to dry on day. Now let us study skin. Aboard the present ship external and inner casings were carried out from the separate boards. Our model is made on the simplified technology; therefore its skin is made from the flat paper it is sheet. These sheets are designated on the drawing by letters from A to L in the alphabetical order. Cut out the details indicated. On the body you will determine the place of the skin E (it rectangular form it is located between frames 5 and 6). Mark this place on the frames of model, but detail E thus far do not stick. From frame 5 into the nose and from the frame 6 V to fodder begin to stick the sheets of skin, superimposing them so that in favor of the frames ends would speak not more than on 5 mm. some sheets must be incised it was boundary after pasting on the risks to the frame, on which they were stuck. Sheet A must be preliminarily lengthened against the edge of the table by back side in order to give convex form to it. Accurately prikleyte it butt to the keel and frame 1. You will join sheet L to the skin k, after establishing it in its place. The coming out edge of the skin L cut through every 5 mm and outside podkleyte to the transom, trying it not to bend. After which to it prikleyte on top detail 15. Lastly shut with sheet E openings in the skin.

    Place on your place the deck of quarter deck (detail 16), having preliminarily bent its wide end. It forms the wall of below-deck accomodation. Prikleyte in their place taffrail 18, having preliminarily transferred to its back side the line of setting deck (UP). The deck of quarter deck must be abutted by stern end precisely against this line. In this case front wall must remain vertical. You will pass the branches of frames 8, 9, 10 into the lateral cuts of deck, after giving to it easy bend. Fix deck by glue. In the place indicated you will establish the point of attachment of last mast. You will establish the deck of tank 17, as shown in figure. This deck rests by stern end on frame 3, and it lies down by nose end on the upper edge of stem. In this case the branches of frames 1 and 2 penetrate the openings and the slots to deck. You will fasten deck by glue. To the upper edge of taffrail 18 and the "horn" of frame 8 prikleyte the stern gallery, assembled from details 19 (area), 20 (left side), 21 (the starboard), 22 (sorting), 23 (stern sorting). To the "horns" of nose frames 1, 2, greased by glue, you will plant the nose gallery (detail 31). The opening of foremast will serve as the orientator of the correctness of installation. Nose gallery consists of details 24 (the starboard), 25 (left side), 26 (stern sorting), 27 (nose sorting), by 31 (area). Even this entire knot and you will finally fasten by its glue. Let us further gather grotto- hatchway. Cut out frame 28 and nakleyte to the thin cardboard. Take the piece of plastic grid with the square cells and you will place the framework on the grid so that the threads would be parallel to its sides. By felt-tip pen encircle grid on the external outline and cut on the outline. Then still cut off from each side allowance not more than for 1,5... 2 mm. prepared grid you will place on the opening of hatchway, but you will on top place the framework greased by glue. Two small hatchways 29 and 30 serve for the communication of decks. Being guided by figures, you will establish on each hatchway of the framework. So in each hatchway you will establish gangplanks and ladders. You will fasten on the deck of tank 17 support for the foremast. On the completion of the installation of decks and superstructures study fastening onboard skin. First prikleyte detail 32 and 33 (the starboard), 34 and 35 (left side). Previously prikleyte to four stern cannon ports 32 and 34 from each side with respect to detail 40 - they will serve as the point of attachments of the instruments of main battery.

    Cut out the gun stems of main battery from the rectangles of the thin paper of black color (with size of yashchkhyshch mm; detail 88). Billets on to glue roll up into the small tubes on the awl with a diameter approximately of 2 mm. the length of the barrel of the gun 15 mm. in all the instruments of main battery it is necessary to make 32 pieces (in the figure of the model of 4 stern ports of lower gun deck they are closed). You will establish the same instruments (8 pieces) on the upper deck. For them it is necessary to prepare gun carriages 87 on wheels 89, 90. Do not thus far establish instrument on the gun carriages on the model. To the stern superstructure prikleyte detail 36 (the starboard) and 37 (left side), which will shut the spaces between the decks. But before nakleyte from the inside of these details the bar of solid foam plastic 121, in which will be held the ends trunk the instruments of small caliber. In frames 8, 9, 10 for this bar the cuts are provided. The instruments of small caliber prepare from the copper wire with a diameter of 1,5 mm. of the opening of the installation of instruments on details 36 and 37 are designated by points. Similar operations perform also with the nose superstructure. You will establish detail 43 and 44 in the cut of frame. Now let us study the installation of the instruments of main battery on the lower deck. Cut out details 38 (skin of board right) and 39 (skin of board leftist). Cut in them cannon ports. You will apply skin alongside below previously stuck onboard skin by 32, 34 with the overlap of details on 2... 3 mm. you will temporarily fasten skin to the housing by pins. Prover'te, correctly skin lay. Under details 38 and 39 on the skin directly designate openings under the cannon ports by awl. Remove skin and cut openings by sharp chopping knife on the outlined outlines. Then to details 38 and 39 from within prikleyte the holders of instruments (detail 40). Attempt to again apply skin alongside, just as they made earlier. The holders of instruments must completely be sunk into the housing and be arranged in it between the upper deck and the stringer. Make skin on both boards. To all openings of cannon ports outside nakleyte framework 85. To the openings, which emerge on the upper deck, the framework compulsorily nakleyte from both sides. On the upper deck you will establish instruments on the gun carriages. Vkleyte the barrels of the guns of main battery into the holders

    Let us further study the installation of boarding grids. Prikleyte transverse wall 48 to the stern superstructure. Gather from details 49, 50, 51 transitional bridge and you will establish it between the superstructures. You will establish to the model of mast and the bowsprit. Height of masts, which includes the below-deck part: mainmast 92 - 160 mm; foremast 93 - 127 mm; mizzensail- mast 94 - 153 mm; Bonawentura- mast 95 - 108 mm; bowsprit 96 - 100 mm and shot stern 97 - 40 mm. The length of grotto- topmast 98 - 110 mm, and fore-to-mast 99 - 70 mm. mainmast is established without the inclination, foremast is barely inclined forward, whereas mizzensail is inclined a little back. Bonawentura- mast is inclined back somewhat more than mizzensail- mast. Bowsprit you will pass through detail 52, will strengthen by cardboard and prikleyte to the nose superstructure. In the middle part of the ship and on the stern superstructure you will establish the laths of boarding grids. For network itself use a plastic mesh. You will fasten it on the rafters by pasteboard strips. If you want, in the fodder can equip the cabin of captain. It it is possible to gather from details 56 - the platform of stern cabin, 57 - enclosure of the upper area above the cabin, 58 - nose wall of cabin, 59 - floor of cabin. From the strip of brown cardboard cut out sorting under the cabin and prikleyte to it door (detail 61, 2 pcs). Equip cabin with upper hatch 62

    Now let us study the installation of sail armament. From wooden luchinok or laths plane yards. Their sizes: grotto- yard 100 - 170 mm, fore yard 101 - 118 mm, grotto-masthead- yard 102 - 97 mm, odds-masthead- yard 103 - 68 mm, grotto-ray's bream- yard 104 - 69 mm, odds-ray's bream- yard 105 - 45 mm, blinda- yard 106 - 102 mm, mizzensail -rh 107 - 180 mm, the Bonawentura -rh 108 - 118 m. The model of ship is executed on the simplified technology, and therefore in it some elements of rigging be absent. But entire main thing on the spot. Mated parts 63, 64; 65, 66; 67, 68; 69, 70 serve as right and left ruslenyami - the areas, to which are fastened the lower ends of the guys. Nakleyte by their reverse side to the dense cardboard. Then pierce by the awl of the openings, marked by points. Soobrazuyas' with the figure of the common form of model, prikleyte ruslenya to the boards. You will strengthen by their ends 71. For the grotto of rusleney will be required 8 pieces even 20 pieces (detail 72) - for the rest. Knees preliminarily nakleyte to the thick cardboard. Mars baskets - "crow nests" - it is necessary to gather without our aid. In the headers of finished parts cut the circular openings, which correspond to the diameters of each mast. In their borders you will bore openings for the topmast shrouds. You will mount baskets to the masts. The header of the basket of mainmast defends from its top on 30 mm, in foremast - on 20 mm, and in mizzensail- mast - on 10 mm. on top to the header of Mars basket podkleyte the lower end of the topmast. Tie grotto and fore-tos-mast to the masts

    Now let us study sails. To the thin whatman transfer from the periodical page the outlines of sails. Apply to the billets of sails vertical lines with a step of 10 mm. this it will give to paper sail the form of present, cross-linked from the separate widths. Tie to the masts yards with the sails, carrying out thread crisscross. The grottos also of fore yard must be tied up directly under the Mars baskets. Blinda- yard must be established at a distance of approximately 33 mm from the end of the bowsprit. Lengthen all guys, using the figure of common form. Their lower ends proden'te into the openings in ruslenyakh. Stretch and fix by glue. Lengthen topmast shrouds 121. After this, you will establish shtagi 122. They are superimposed above the guys by loop and they penetrate the header of Mars basket. Further conduct sten'- 123 and ray's breams -sten6-wtagi 124, and also the Bonawentura -wtag 125 forduny of 126 grotto- topmasts. To the lower ends of the guys nakleyte detail 76 (circles), while to the lower ends of shtagov nakleyte the detail of 76 triangular forms. Be guided by the rule: the lower is located shtag, the thicker it must be and the greater in the size blocks must be on it stuck. Transverse steps on the guys make from the threads, moistened in thick PVA. Using the figure of the common form of model, conduct running rigging. You will strengthen on the model control 77. On its upper part you will strengthen the tiller, whose end prosun'te into the aperture on the transom. Prepare and hang up to nose ruslenyam of anchors 80, stuck on the cardboard and intensified by wooden rods 118. Color anchors in the black color. The twisted thick thread of black color will serve as anchor rope. You will pass one end of the thread into the hawse of details 33, 35 and, etc. tie to the anchor by anchor knot. The production of model you will complete by the installation of flags and messages.

    I do not have the cruiser oslabya, where is the url?

    You can translate using babel fish.


  5. lizzienewell

    lizzienewell Member

    The translation is charming. I love the wackyness of computer translations. I like guessing what they mean.
    I would guess that "splendid thread" is filigree.
    The "spaceship skin" has me scratching my head.

    This little gem has me thinking of all sorts of possibilites--"Probably, after falling onboard this vessel, we, first of all, they would astonish not to the guns" I'm sure we would astonish the guns after falling onto the ship.

    Oh yeah and the engravers rushing into the eyes. You got to love it.

    The people connected with slit locks LOL.

  6. pbhawkin

    pbhawkin Member

    Russian cruiser Oslayba

    Titra (and everyone else)

    The Oslayba is at:
    It is downloaded as Oslayba.r00 (RAR file, like zip file) file which needs to be unrar'ed and that gives you an .EXE file that needs to be executed prior to seeing the parts!
    This site is very slow!!! (as are the ones for Arabella and Mary Rose).

  7. Tirta

    Tirta Member

    Hi Peter,

    Thanks for the link.
    Is the Oslayba a sailing ship too?

  8. bholderman

    bholderman Member


    No, the Oslyabya was a Russian Pre-Dreadnought battleship. In July of 1904 it was part of the Russian Baltic Fleet at the start of the Russo-Japanese War.


    After "sailing" around Africa, the Japanese discovered the fleet on May 26, 1905, engaging the fleet the following day at Tsushima. Within the hour the Oslyabya was hit and sunk.

  9. pbhawkin

    pbhawkin Member

    Have you built the Oslabya model as yet, or for that matter anyone else?

    I plan to do it after I finish the Uruguayan cruiser.

  10. bholderman

    bholderman Member

    No, i havent although I would like to. I'm busy making a mess of DN's Dreadnought right now.

    But there is a nice build thread here:

    And a current one over at Kartonbau:

    There is a fascination with (I one of the guilty party) of the Battle of Tsushima. The monuental task of the Baltic Fleet sailing for a year to replace a fleet that had already been trounced by the Japanese, to be blown to pieces within a day is quite phenomenal.

    Material-speaking the Russian had all the advantages except one, the Japanese had just finished off the Chinese Navy in the previous Sino-Japanese war, thus an immense amount of experience. It was taking the Western nations some amount of time to digest all the technical aspects of naval battles with new technologies that occured during the Sino-Japanese war. The Japanese had simply already learned them. Between the writings of Mahan, Luce and Sims, there was a continuing debate over the use of small arms versus big guns which was based mainly on target success percentages, which Sims was in the process of changing in lieu of new targeting techniques.

    But I can go on and on about those changes that led to Dreadnought...fascinating period of history.

  11. pbhawkin

    pbhawkin Member

    Hi, quick reply!!
    The oslabya I was refering to is the one from the Russian site. Not as well detailed as the DN (Romans) one I would think.
    Thanks for the links though.

  12. bholderman

    bholderman Member


    Which model are you referring to? Can you post a link to it?

  13. I tried building that Oslyabya (note the slightly different translation of the Russian Cyrillic alphabet), but I had to abandon it. There are SERIOUS flaws in the framework. David Hathaway started to "fix" this model with the designer's permission, but he stopped after learning of Roman's project. I'd strongly recommend the Digital Navy model, though I have not yet ordered it. (I did build his Ochakov, and I'm very pleased with it.)

    The Oslyabya was the flagship of Rear Admiral Dmitri Felkersam, commanding the 2nd Armored Unit. Felkersam was the second-in-command of the Russian fleet at Tsushima, but he died from a long-running illness three days before the battle. To avoid demoralizing the squadron his death was kept secret from even other captains, and Felkersham's flag remained over the Oslyabya.

    Thus, the 2nd Armored Fleet literally sailed to destruction under the flag of a dead man. The Oslyabya was the first battleship sunk that day.

    Compounding this disaster, the commanding Admiral Zinovy Petrovich Rozhestvensky held Admiral Nikolai Ivanovich Nabogatov (commanding the 3rd Armored Unit -- full of ancient "clunkers" that never should have sailed) in utter comtempt and failed to advise him of Felkersam's death and that Nabogatov was now second-in-command. So early in the battle when Rozhestvensky was wounded onboard his flagship Suvorov (and the main yards that carried his signal flags destroyed), there was a complete breakdown in command. All this and more spelled doom for the Russian fleet.
  14. bholderman

    bholderman Member


    Many thanks for the more complete follow-up.

  15. pbhawkin

    pbhawkin Member

    the link to the russian free Oslabya is earlier on in this topic (I posted it on the 3rd for Titra) so just scroll back to towards the top!!

  16. swiftsword

    swiftsword Member

    I'm building the DN Oslyabya right now and have no problems with it whatsoever.

    I've heard about the "other" one in various threads and am told that even the designer acknowledges that it doesn't fit very well. If you're interested in the ship, I recommend buying the DN one.

    Check out my Oslyabya thread here:

    Incidentally - I'm looking for pictures, especially detailed close-ups of Oslyabya or her sisters, Peresvet and Pobieda. Everything is welcome...


  17. bholderman

    bholderman Member


    Now that you're here, I posted a link to you thread last week. Amazing build.

  18. swiftsword

    swiftsword Member

    Thanks, Brad ;) Roman's put out a great model with this one.


  19. RonC

    RonC Member

    OSLYABYA from the Russion Site

  20. Amouse

    Amouse New Member

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