Alternative to manufactured roadbed...
- Thread starter dougget
- Start date
I lay my track down on 5/8 inch foam insultion board, can cut rivers , ponds and also use it for adding scenery . Such as cliffs, hills and mountains with tunnels. point of interest,... is have an old Vaccum cleaner handy as it is messy, but cheap, and easy to use .
Bob
Bob
N
nachoman
I have used 1/4 masonite. You can get a 4x8 for less than 10 bucks, and "cookie cutter" the roadbed pieces.
Kevin
Kevin
I do plan to use the insulation foam to cover my entire table and build a mountain/tunnel at one end. Also thinking about a river cut into the foam. I'm cool with that part. What I really want to do is get my track up off the surface of the foam.
I like the masonite idea... Did you use a router to bevel the edges? How did you attach the track to the masonite? It's pretty hard stuff.
Finally, what is the "cookie cutter" method?
Thanks,
Doug
I like the masonite idea... Did you use a router to bevel the edges? How did you attach the track to the masonite? It's pretty hard stuff.
Finally, what is the "cookie cutter" method?
Thanks,
Doug
N
nachoman
The "cookie cutter" method simply means cutting individual pieces out of a larger sheet using a jigsaw. In years past, one could either build a layout atop a continuous sheet of plywood, or cut out the plywood and place it only in areas where the track goes. What wasn't covered by plywood was an open frame covered by plaster scenery.
You are right, masonite is hard stuff. I either beveled the edges using a router or a sander after the individual shapes were cut from the larger board. I either glued the roadbed to the plywood underlayment with yellow glue, or fastened it using small nails. In those days, I used atlas code 100 track, and I simply drove the atlas track nail through the hole in the tie and into the masonite. If I was doing it again, I would glue the track down using latex caulk.
Kevin
You are right, masonite is hard stuff. I either beveled the edges using a router or a sander after the individual shapes were cut from the larger board. I either glued the roadbed to the plywood underlayment with yellow glue, or fastened it using small nails. In those days, I used atlas code 100 track, and I simply drove the atlas track nail through the hole in the tie and into the masonite. If I was doing it again, I would glue the track down using latex caulk.
Kevin
There was an article in Model Railroader about using "topper tape" the foam single sided tape used to keep truck toppers from rattling. It works well, but costs the same as buying Woodland Scenics.
MR also had an article about creating a hot-wire "profile" tool to carve the shape of the roadbed and ditches right into the foam base itself.
Andrew
Andrew
I worked on a layout whose owner used door skins (1/8" wood covering for doors) which was cheap. I felt it was splintery and was glad someone else was doing that part of the work.
I bought a roll of cork ( 20m x 0.6m wide), and simply cut 19mm wide strips.
Why thin strips? Because you can bend them to follow the track curvature. Two strips glues next to each other make a full roadbed width.
The cork roll is about 2 to 3mm thick, so ideal for this use.
It's a LOT cheaper than commercial roadbed but has the same sound-qualities, heck, it's the same stuff!!
Why thin strips? Because you can bend them to follow the track curvature. Two strips glues next to each other make a full roadbed width.
The cork roll is about 2 to 3mm thick, so ideal for this use.
It's a LOT cheaper than commercial roadbed but has the same sound-qualities, heck, it's the same stuff!!
That same kind of cork can be bought at Michael's (craft store - $$$) or possibly your local big box hardware ($$).
Andrew
Andrew