Recent content by sputnik

The bodies are different, and on some of the GP40-2s, they have different trucks for the SP version (but it's been awhile since those were made, so they aren't so readily available). The chassis are the same, but the motor IS NOT. Some have the "faster" black motor, and the newer ones (those...

I was futzing around with my last post while you posted this one... I understand your not wanting to start over, but will it be worth at least $40 in material and time to crate it, and at the very very least $100 to ship it? Not that it isn't, just realize what it's going to take. ---jps

Yeah, what he said. I've moved my 2 1/2' x 5' layout in two interstate moves now (although I have yet to check on it's condition after the most recent move a week ago). I built a crate for it (http://home.att.net/~bluecreekrr/c9/bc-crate.html), and the movers loaded it along with the other...

Actually, the body and "nose" are cast as one piece. First, the body, walkway, and handrails come off of the frame in one piece (like the Bachman shell off it's frame). Simply work it off, there are no hidden catches or anything, just don't force anything. The fuel tank is it's own piece...

Didn't we see a series of articles in one of the magazines where someone put a Z scale figure eight (large, well-scenicked figure eight, no toyish stuff). in the underside of a dining room table. The result was very artistic and modern. ---jps

You can find thin wire like that in other places without having to gut a new mouse for it. You can get "magnet wire" from Walthers. Alot of very cheap stereo and video cables (with RCA plugs), like the kind you get in the box with a new DVD player, has thin stranded wires. Wires from an old...

I'm sorry, but spaghetti would be way too big for rebar, even in HO scale. Something like .010" thick copper or phosphor bronze wire would be better. Paint it, or dip it in vinegar to discolor it, and you've got it. ---jps

The printer doesn't have to be too high-end. Like 88 said, most of those kits come for inkjets, and resolutions as low as 600x600 should at least work for railroad names and car numbers. Even before you lay out for a decal kit, you could print some trial lettering on basic white paper, and see...

Depending on the desired color of your lettering, have you considered a print your own decal kit? It might be alot easier, quicker, and a neater, better aligned job. I can appreciate that there are considerations like cost (maybe, I don't know), what you are comfortable with, etc., so it...

That has been my experience on places like eBay. That's the nice thing about the alcohol, it is so much friendlier to plastics than commercial strippers. I can't say that I've stripped every kind of plastic out there, but I haven't run into a plastic, resin, or styrene that is affected by a...

Intermountian offers (or at least used to offer) all of their un-assembled cars undecorated, and I've been able to get them from my normal online and local shops. Atlas offers some of their items undecorated too, and should be available direct from them (when they are released), or from the...

I agree with deez guyz. Optimum depends on a few things. For example, if you primarily run 4 axle engines with 40 foot cars, a 2x4 layout will work. But if you prefer 6 axle engines with modern 50-60 foot cars, then you should look more towards a 3x6 table top (for the larger radius curves)...

I've sketched this out on the first picture. And I've sketched that out in the second picture. Both of these are rough sketches, to give you an idea of what I'm talking about with arrangement. They might not fit the same when you lay things out exactly with whichever planning software you...

Yeah, what he said. ---jps

I can understand your desire for an "S" curve, to get the look of trains snaking through. It's a very cool effect. The problem is that if the "S" curve is too sharp, it will look awkward instead of smooth, and you won't get the effect you want (even if you only have short engines and 40'...