Discussion in 'Aircraft & Aviation' started by Billy Leliveld, Aug 15, 2007.
So, I put the skin-parts together, to avoid fitting-problems..
Only to find out that it doesn't fit in an another place
Wow - I'm finding it surprising that a kit printed in 2005 would have this many fitting issues. Your model is still coming along nicely and I believe you will have something to show for it when done - but it sounds like it could be a lot easier on you getting there...
It looks as if it is a computer-generated model, surprising to find so much misfits... Anyway despite all that your model still looks great!
I don't know, but there's something wrong with this model, maybe the designers had a hangover , or there was something wrong with the scanner, or the computerprogram they used, I can't figure it out, it still has beautyfull details, if only they would fit...
Did the wings.. looks OK..
it is quite astonishing for me, how good you are in compensating the faults of the kit!
Keep on your good work! :thumb:
I have had trouble finding the right glue to fasten the clear canopy film to the paper. Nothing seems to stick and I end up with a smeared mess that comes apart. Very frustrating to cut out all the openings for the canopy several times only to have it ruined trying to glue it to the film. Suggestions?
I have found that only superglue will work. Great perserverence on your part despite the poor fit.
I have a clear drying glue I picked up in the 'stick and tissue' section of my local hobby store that works well. I'll take a pic of the bottle and link it up sometime this weekend (I don't remember the brand).
Hello Tim, When I glue canopies I use this stuff, I bought it in a model-shop here in Holland, but it's from America, so it must be available over there, It's called Clear parts cement & window maker from Model master
It becomes clear when it dries
Really a nice build so far! The fit problem is another issue.
I discovered something the other day when I was reading some translated instructions from GPM on a plane I have plans to do......and there it said" formers have to be cut on the INSIDE of the black outline!!" And in my case that usually means 1mm totally!! I always cut parts on the outside and rarely in the middle of the outline.This issue is defenately something to think about since 1mm here and there can be the difference of failure and success!!
JOZR5007 JOZ SUPER RCZ56 GLUE
Her's what I'm using for cockpits. It's a white paste material, not too bad to work with using a toothpick and it dries completely clear.
You've got a point there, but this model has more problems, I noticed when you build a model of Nobi, you better cut away the black lines, then you have a better looking and fitting model, but with this one the lines are so thin, less than 0,05 mm,they disapear when you cut them..
To fill the gap between the wingroots at the bottom I printed the scan I made, and cutted some banana-shaped parts to cover the 4mm gap
Did the wheels from polystyrene...
I just finished the XP 55...
It doesn't look that bad, but I have some mixed feelings about this kit, The fitting problems should'nt be that big for a model from 2005, probably computer-assisted design. It would help if the instructions where more detailed, So here's my advice; If this one is on your "to do list", just put it on the bottom.... (and leave it there for a while)
The difference between my build of Nobi's XP-54 is that, even though Nobi's design is not that detailed as the Orlik-models, it was so much fun to add more detail to it, building the XP 55 you are just solving problems, which should not be there... I guess it is just this model, not that long ago Flutecrank build the ME 163, from Orlik and he apperently had no problems..
BTW, the models are not the same scale..
I just think you did a great job there Billy!!
Thanks, Johnny, here's another pic..
And one more..
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