www76.pair.com Saturn 1B

Discussion in 'Space & Aeronautics' started by trimman62, Aug 24, 2005.

  1. trimman62

    trimman62 New Member

    I'm collecting cardmodels of American space rockets, and the Saturn 1b is one that I'm missing. I've read in numerous places on the web that the model is available for free download at www76.pair.com, but that link is no longer valid.

    I was wondering if anyone knew an updated url where that model can now be found, or if you have the Saturn 1B files, could you share them with me by attaching them to your reply? Thanks.
  2. trimman62

    trimman62 New Member

    I'm collecting cardmodels of American space rockets, and the Saturn 1b is one that I'm missing. I've read in numerous places on the web that the model is available for free download at www76.pair.com, but that link is no longer valid.

    I was wondering if anyone knew an updated url where that model can now be found, or if you have the Saturn 1B files, could you share them with me by attaching them to your reply? Thanks.
  3. NYC Irish

    NYC Irish Member

  4. NYC Irish

    NYC Irish Member

  5. Jim Krauzlis

    Jim Krauzlis Active Member

  6. Jim Krauzlis

    Jim Krauzlis Active Member

  7. jparenti

    jparenti Member

    Speaking of Saturn 1-B, has anyone seem these edits floating around? I always liked this model, and the versions here would go well with my collection.

    Attached Files:

  8. Dyna-Soar

    Dyna-Soar Member

    They wil be available from the Lhvcc in the near future. I e-mailed their site about them not long ago.
  9. Hans Christian

    Hans Christian Active Member

    Whew!!! Finally, the Lost Saturn Rockets!!! Now I can complete the whole Project Apollo!!!!!!!
  10. dhanners

    dhanners Member

    With a little work, the Precision Space Paper Models Saturn 1B builds into a nice model. It is fairly well designed. I built a couple, with some modifications, and you can see them here:

    I should point out that since I built those models, I've gone back and replaced the Launch Escape System tower latticework on each with much thinner "piping," so it is more to scale. Haven't shot new photos, though. Maybe I can do that and add some to my Gallery here.

    Also, I made up my own First Stage tanks, changing the font of the "UNITED STATES" and adding details with the "Draw" function in Word. That was, however, on a computer I owned three years ago, and I don't have that stuff anymore. I did that largely because I wanted to model the ASTP launch vehicle, which had all white RP tanks on the First Stage instead of the alternating black and white. (In reality, the RP tanks were Redstone rockets, oddly enough.)

    There's a goodly amount of research stuff out there on the Saturn 1B, but one of the sites I found quite helpful was this one:

    Good luck with your model!
  11. milenio3

    milenio3 Active Member

    Dhaners, the link to download the 1B in your site returns a not found message.
    Any updates?
  12. dhanners

    dhanners Member

    I don't have a link to download the Saturn 1B. Wish I did, but I didn't. I stuck three links in my e-mail -- two for my Saturn 1Bs in the Readers Gallery at starshipmodeler.com, and one for the Saturn 1B section of apollomaniacs.web.
  13. Jim Krauzlis

    Jim Krauzlis Active Member

    Hi, Gerardo!

    Try the link I posted above, it's the internet archive location for the original link...the archive page seems to be temporarily down due to "scheduled maintenance", but try again in a day or two.

  14. Hans Christian

    Hans Christian Active Member

    Sir David...

    pls put up a tutorial thread on how to redetail card model rockets! I could certainly use some help in my builds... :-D
  15. dhanners

    dhanners Member

    That's kind of you to ask about a tutorial, and I'll try and do that this weekend. Today, I've got a doctor's appointment and work, and then tonight I've got to play a gig. This weekend, though, I promise....
  16. Jim Krauzlis

    Jim Krauzlis Active Member

  17. Hans Christian

    Hans Christian Active Member

    No need to rush sir!!! Just take your time!!! :-D

    Thanks again!!!
  18. dhanners

    dhanners Member

    Ok, this isn't a tutorial, as such (the rest of the builders on this forum have set a pretty high standard for that sort of thing) but I thought I'd pass along a few general tips for how I built my PSPM Saturn 1B, and many of the tips can be applied to other models.

    I'll try and cover it in three categories:

    1) Making new parts to replace kit parts;
    2) Modifying kit parts to make them more accurate;
    3) Fabricating parts that aren't in the kit.

    I added six photos of one of my Saturn 1Bs to my gallery (dhanners gallery) so you can see some of the things I'll be talking about. So here goes. I'm certainly no master, and I've learned a lot by trial and (lots of) error. Hopefully, my errors will save you some trials....

    I can't remember how many parts are included in the PSPM Saturn 1B model, but I used just four of them relatively stock on this model. All the other kit parts were used as patterns for new parts I made.

    Perhaps the most prominent (or at least most numerous) "new part" on the model are the eight RP tanks on the first stage. Most of the Saturn 1Bs launched had alternating black and white tanks, but I had wanted to model the launch vehicle for the Apollo-Soyuz Test Project, AS-210, which featured eight white RP tanks. As with the black tanks, four of them had a vertical "UNITED STATES" down the sides, along with horizontal "SA-210" on them. The font used on the PSPM RP tanks is incorrect; I can't recall what the correct one is, but I found it online and downloaded it. (And I might point out here that Rick Sternbach, a talented modeler and artist, helped me with this and with other background information on Saturn fonts and whatnot. One tidbit he gave me was that the fonts on the different stages were generally different, as were the colors; different stages built by different contractors, all using different types of paints, he said.)

    Using the kit parts as guides, I designed replacements using the "Draw" function in Word. If you're adept at using more advanced computer design techniques, have at it. I'm not, but I can use the simple tools in Draw. I first started by drawing a box on the page that was the size of the kit part. Then I added the lettering using Word Art. It took a few attempts to get things at the right size.

    I did the same thing for the body of the S-IVB.

    In looking at detail photos of the RP tanks and S-IVB, I saw they had seams and panel detail and what appeared to be rivet lines, so I replicated those using dotted lines (in light gray) spaced at proper intervals vertically on the tank. You can create a rounded box or rectangle with Draw, and replace the solid lines with dotted lines. That's how I made the panel detail. I added lines and tunnels using strips of posterboard, and vent details were made by using Draw to drawing circles on the tanks; for added depth, I used a paper punch to cut out the upper vent holes and backed them with black paper.

    Speaking of paper, let's speak about paper. In all, I used 11 different types or colors of paper on this model, including our normal 65-pound stock, plain typing paper, posterboard, different types of textured paper and at least two different types of metallic papers. We're card modelers, so we shouldn't limit ourselves to just the usual white stock that we use. Make a visit to your local art-supply store and spend awhile going through their selection of papers; you'll be amazed at what you'll find and the ideas you'll get.

    For example, a lot of launch vehicles -- the Saturn 1B included -- use sections of corrugated or ridged metal in their construction. It can be a fairly prominent feature, and on the normal card model, there's really no easy way to replicate this. But I found several different types of corrugated paper at my local art store, and each came in a variety of colors and corrugation widths. I realized two of them would look good on my Saturn 1B. One type, with deep corrugations, would look good on the very bottom of the first-stage thrust structure, and around the top of the first stage. Another type, with lighter corrugations, would look good on the interstage and on the S-IVB, I decided. So I cut sections of them and used them to replace parts on the kit.

    Other kit pieces from the model, such as the Spacecraft Adapter (the conical section connecting the S-IVB to the Service Module) were used as patterns for replacement parts. I added detail to the SCA with thin strips of paper, using photos and drawings of the real launch vehicle as a guide.

    Some of the kit parts can be used, but they can be "spruced up" to add detail or make them more realistic. The fins are an example. The kit parts have each fin as one part, which you fold in half to make two sides. It is a simple design, but not that realistic because the actual fin should have a somewhat triangular cross-section.

    I cut out the kit fins and made the fold to fold it in half. Then, I took a think strip of balsa (about 2mm wide) and glued it along the inside bottom of one of the fins, but recessed it slightly, the width of a piece of paper. After that was dry, I folded the other half of the fin over and glued it to the balsa, making sure to work the paper so the fin was symetrical in cross section. When that dried, I cut strips of paper to cover the bottom of the fin, as well as the outward tip of the fin. Once everything was trimmed and sanded, I had realistic fins.

    The Launch Escape System tower on the kit can also use improvement, particularly the latticework that connects the LES motor to the Boost Protective Cover, which is the part that covers the Apollo Command Module. I laminated a couple of layers of 65-pound stock, then when it had dried, I cut it into v-e-r-y thin strips. Using the kit part as a template, I cut and glued the strips into the latticework. I added detail to the BPC with thin strips of paper, much like I did on the SCA.

    As we all know, the surface of the Apollo Service Module is silver. For this, I used aluminum foil, rolled around the kit part. The SM also features several white, ridged radiators, which I made from 65-pound stock. I cut the radiators to size, then cut thin strips from paper and glued them on in horizontal lines to represent the raised portions. These were then glued on to the SM.

    While PSPM's kit is pretty decent, there are parts it doesn't include. Most of these parts are left off as a nod towards keeping the model from becoming too complex.

    I'll cite a couple examples of pieces that I made that you can see in the photos. On the bottom of the first stage, the outboard four nozzles can be gimballed, and the gimbal mechanism is covered by a flexible fabric boot. To make mine, I started by making a mold, carving a small piece of wood to the shape I wanted the boots to be. I then glued a wooden "tab" to the bottom of it so I could hold it during the following steps.

    I took plain typing paper and cut it to the approximate shape of the boot, but a bit oversized. I made radial cuts along the sides so the paper would fold down over the wood mold easier. I put the paper over the mold and used white glue (with a little water added to thin it a bit) and formed it over the mold. Once it held its shape -- but before it had dried on the mold -- I took the paper off and let it dry. Once dry, I trimmed the bottom so it would be flat, then glued it to the first-stage thrust plate. I repeated this three times to get four boots.

    Once the boots were dry, I painted them light gray. When that was dry, I cut a small "X" where the nozzle would go, then inserted the nozzle and glued it to the thrust plate.

    On to other things.... There are a number of conduits, cable raceways, ullage motors and various other bits and bulges on the rocket. Where possible, I like to make these out of laminated posterboard, which I cut and sand to shape. When laminating multiple layers of posterboard, I find it helps to alternate the direction of the paper's grain with each layer. Use plenty of glue (you want to avoid glue "voids") and use clamps or clothespins to keep the layers pressed together while they dry. Once dry, you can cut each piece to the approximate shape, then sand it to an accurate shape. Paint it if you need to.

    That's about all I can think of for now. If you have any questions, just holler, and good luck on your model....

    P.S. -- I thought I'd add that you'll probably notice all my model photos have the same blue background. Instead of going out and buying a big roll of background paper like the one photographers use, I went out and got a roll of wrapping paper. I attched an old dowel to one end of the paper, then strung a long wire between both ends of the dowel. I push my dining room table up agains the wall near a cabinet, hang the wire from a hook in the cabinet door, then unroll the paper so it goes down the front of the cabinet and down across the top of the table. That's my high-priced photo stand. I also set my digital camera on a small tripod and use the camera's shutter timer to take the pictures. Because I don't use any extra lights or flash, the tripod holds the camera steady, and the timer doesn't introduce any hand movements into taking the picture and it can therefore use longer shutter times. Hope that makes sense.
  19. Hans Christian

    Hans Christian Active Member

    Ok!!! Pretty straightforward!!! I'll do it!!! Many thanks!!!

    BTW, about the aluminum foil thing, what side do you recommend, the shiny or the matte side? I also want to do this to the Apollo CM...
  20. dhanners

    dhanners Member

    For the SM, I used the matte side of the aluminum foil. For the CM, use the shiny side.

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