WS Realistic Water

Discussion in 'Getting Started' started by TruckLover, Oct 1, 2008.

  1. TruckLover

    TruckLover Mack CH613 & 53' Trailer

    How come when i put this stuff down ontop of my scenery (Plaster Cloth with rocks and ground foam) it sinks into the scenery as it dries? like when it first goes on, it has depth to it, but as it dries, it sinks into the scenery and by the time it dries, theres no depth to it all :confused: :confused: :confused:

    This happend to me on my CAT Rental Module as well for the creek i did, i had to keep re-applying coats to it, and it would keep doing the same thing, sinking into the scenery :rolleyes: :confused:

    Im doing small little puddles of water along the mainline where water would collect in the cracks and crevices of the embankment following the mainline and by the time the stuff is dry its completely flat and sunken into the scenery with no depth at all remaining :confused: :confused: :cry:

    Anyone have any idea why this is happening?
  2. Mountain Man

    Mountain Man Active Member

    My understanding is that it soaks into any porous surface, and the particular brand you are using may (?) shrink as well when drying. I think the Golden Rule is to seal any surface that the 'water' will come in contact with. I do remember one guy somewhere telling about his whole river or lake leaking through onto the floor under his layout because he hadn't sealed the surface.

    I'm sure we have some experts on the forum who can offer better information, but that's my humble opinion.
  3. sumpter250

    sumpter250 multiscale modelbuilder

    I do know that the WS Real Water product WILL find the smallest "leak", and escape through it! :eek: I also know that the water area of my Ntrak module, which was plywood, sanded, painted, and sealed with clear varnish, built up depth with each new application of Real Water.
    Plaster cloth, plaster of itself, is porous, and until it is sealed, will absorb anything applied to it*. Real Water will lift some paints, and diffuse the color in the water. In the case where I learned that, it was a happy mistake, as the result looked all the more real.
    I would recommend using latex paint to color and seal the "basin" into which the Real Water will be poured. Also, follow the recommendation that only 1/8" depth, be the limit for each successive pour. This can also be used, to create details at different depths, such as water plants, flowing in the current of a stream or river.
    With any product, there is a learning curve. Some of the discoveries can be surprising, and not commonly known, even by the manufacturer. I guess there is some value in "playing with a product" before using it as you intend......and, sometimes, the playing can be fun.

    edit: * I found that hydrocal, once dry, will absorb laquer paints. I still like and use Floquil, and thinner, for all my airbrushing. I dump the dirty thinner, from cleaning my airbrush, in a jar. the resulting mix of color, and thinner, is what I use to stain the plaster to look like rock, adding extra color, or thinner as necessary. It acts like stain, and I can use multiple applications to darken the rock.
    BTW, latex paints, thinned with water, can be used the same way, and don't smell as bad! :mrgreen:
  4. Kevinkrey

    Kevinkrey Member

    I recently poured a river. I painted the bed with craft paints, but on the backs to the side made out of the pink insulation, the "water" wicked up into the foam. If you are simply poring it ponto foam (it sounds like it) try covering it in plaster patch or something like that (sculpamold) and paint it, than pour the water.
  5. TruckLover

    TruckLover Mack CH613 & 53' Trailer

    thanks guys for the help

    I did use WS Plaster Cloth and i did paint it with FolkArt Honeycomb Acrylic Paint. I only did one coat however and i have a feeling i should have done more then one coat wall1 wall1

    Now i know for the future lol

    Is there anything i could do RIGHT now tho that would still make this work without tearing up the affected areas and re-doing them? I want to avoid that if i can... :rolleyes:

    heres a couple pics showing what the WS Realistic Water did where i put it down



  6. eightyeightfan1

    eightyeightfan1 Now I'm AMP'd

    Not an expert, but a guess.
    I do see a lot of tiny little holes in the scenery. A couple really sticks out and looks like where the Real Water might of seaped out. Try plugging them up with some of those rocks you have. Then try re-pouring only a little bit in the spot you plugged.

    Attached Files:

  7. TruckLover

    TruckLover Mack CH613 & 53' Trailer

    WOW i didnt even notice that, thats a huge whole lol

    think scenic cement would plug the wholes better?
  8. Kevinkrey

    Kevinkrey Member

    Do you have a hot glue gun? if you use clear glue sticks youd never know it was there. Make sure you cover any future plastercloth with a second coat of something. I use plaster patch or joint compound because I have it laying around.

Share This Page