Woodland Scenics Sawmill

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shamus

Registered Member
Dec 17, 2000
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Well folks, Jon-Monon bought this little gem for my Birthday (Week early) and all I can say is it is a real beauty. Took a while to clean off the flash (White metal kit) and assemble it but well worth the effort. I sprayed it all black first then dry brushed it with various colours. Painted the drive wheels red and as per instructions, made the little tiny bands out of paper. Wow, this was tiny to work with, I have not got the smallest of fingers:D

All in all, to me, this is a real winner for Woodland Scenics.
Bottom photo I am holding it to show how small it is.
Shamus
wsaw1.jpg

wsaw.jpg

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S

shamus

Registered Member
Dec 17, 2000
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Thanks kindly, what is needed now is a small building to house it all in. Hmmm, next project maybe.

Shamus
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RailRon

Active Member
Nov 23, 2002
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Beautiful little diorama, Paul!

I like the slack you put into this transmission band - can almost hear the flapping of the leather belt. (A sound I often heard as a child in a sawmill in our vicinity. Now and then the belt slipped off the pulley and flew across the sawmill. :eek: That's why the workers always chased us kids away. Todays safety inspectors would simply faint if they saw something like this :D :D :D )

Oh yeah - this sawmill in a little, rickety shed - would just be great!

Ron

BTW: WS should be proud if they could use your model for ads! :)
 
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MasonJar

It's not rocket surgery
Oct 31, 2002
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Glue

I recently got a WS kit - the sand tower and caboose service shed - and am wondering how to assemble it.

Specifically, what kind of glue do you use? I was thinking about the gel-type superglue.

Any comments? What did you use Shamus?

Thanks.

Andrew
 
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shamus

Registered Member
Dec 17, 2000
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Hi Guys, the glue I used for the white metal kit was cyanoacrylate and the fixer that comes with it.

As for the paint, this was a black spray first "Chaos Black" made by Citadel colours. the rest were just humbrol dry brushed paints and the finish was again Citadel Colours "Purity Seal".

Shamus
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jon-monon

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Aug 15, 2002
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www.2guyzandsumtrains.com
Need to remove all residues and oil with a thorough cleaning before painting any metal parts. Best to prime with a primer made for aw hell, I'll just post my brass painting instructions:

Brass Finishing Instructions

Please follow all applicable safety precautions when using any solvents, chemicals, paints, power tools or hand tools.

Some minor filing to remove burrs and excess solder may improve the appearance of your part.

Unfinished brass should have any flux from soldering removed with a solvent such as acetone. If pure acetone is used and the part is not handled after cleaning, it should be ready to paint.

If the part has been handled or if it was cleaned using finger nail polish remover (not pure acetone), it should be cleaned again with acetone or a mild detergent (dish soap) to remove oils.

One the part is clean, dry and free of oil, it's best to prime it with a thinned primer made for metals. Cheap automotive spray primer works well for this, but must be used out doors following the safety precautions on the can. This step may be skipped if the part will be placed on the layout and handled lightly/infrequently.

Paint to desired colors using your favorite modeling paints. Water based acrylics look good and are safe and easy to use indoors. I've had very good luck with inexpensive Testors acrylic available at Walmart or other discount stores.
 
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