I heard that if you spray the wood peices on these with dullcoat before assembly, it prevents warping. Anyone ever heard of this method? Do you spray both sides, or just one side?
wood kits
- Thread starter stary
- Start date
Stary I've never heard of using dullcote as a sealer but I think it would be the same as painting both sides. Pat
Use an acrylic lacquer like Krylon Crystal Clear and do both sides. Spray several very light coats and rub them with fine steel wool in between coats. This will keep the parts from warping.
Yes. you would have to procede much the same way you would with styrene, after sealing the wood. Staining first, and sealing with dullcote sounds like the right way to go, if you want a stained finish.
Pete
Sealing the wood first would prevent it from soaking up the stain, and providing better control on the depth of color. No different than for furniture. Just one thing, there is a difference between a wood sealer and a clear coat finish. Always stain before you apply a finish coat.
If you are going to seal, do both sides and let dry thoroughly after. But brace with stripwood wherever you can before sealing. If doing a multi-story building in wood, consider bracing between floors. One can never have too much sturdy bracing across the grain.
I've run into more lumber in the past year that has warped but should not have than ever before. Mainly, that lumber has been in laser-cut kits by several manufacturers. Don't know what the deal is.
And, for what it's worth, I stopped using Dull-Cote about a year ago. I've replaced it with Testors Model Master Clear Flat Lusterless spray finish. I believe the number is 1960. Jeff Wilson said the same thing in a freight car weathering clinic I heard him give a month ago.
Good luck.
--Stu--
I've run into more lumber in the past year that has warped but should not have than ever before. Mainly, that lumber has been in laser-cut kits by several manufacturers. Don't know what the deal is.
And, for what it's worth, I stopped using Dull-Cote about a year ago. I've replaced it with Testors Model Master Clear Flat Lusterless spray finish. I believe the number is 1960. Jeff Wilson said the same thing in a freight car weathering clinic I heard him give a month ago.
Good luck.
--Stu--
George, I found my hobby shop out of Dull-Cote once upon a time. I was in the final finishing stages of a model. Since the Dull-Cote was not expected for another week. Lusterless Flat was recommended to me. I tried it. The model came out great! I tried each on a few other projects and am PERSONALLY happier with the Model Master product. It seems to do the same job with a thinner coat and a more naturally dull finish. No big scientific tests here, just my own impressions. I also seem to get a more predictable color result from pastels when I use Lusterless Flat.
You might get a fresh can of each and try them side by side on similar projects, say two mineral red boxcars. Compare final results in stronger light than your layout room has.
--Stu--
You might get a fresh can of each and try them side by side on similar projects, say two mineral red boxcars. Compare final results in stronger light than your layout room has.
--Stu--
Stu,
I have two or three cans of Dull Coat on hand, but when my stock gets low, I'll test the Model Master lusterless flat.
George
I have two or three cans of Dull Coat on hand, but when my stock gets low, I'll test the Model Master lusterless flat.
George