WIP: Very simple TIE Defender (1st ever build)

Discussion in 'Science Fiction & Fantasy' started by Spartacus, Mar 2, 2013.

  1. Spartacus

    Spartacus Member

    :wave: Hello All :wave:

    This is my first ever build, kind-of. I started on the small Mass Effect 2 Normandy SR2 Cerberus, but it started getting fiddly quickly so I've put that to one side to get a simpler model done, learn the ropes & get the confidence up.

    An experienced modeller could have done this in a couple of hours, but I've been spreading it over a couple of nights, hour here and there.

    I've found the UHU glue I had laying around is a bit tricky. Dries very fast, which is nice, but goes tacky so quickly can leave "spider strands", some of which have hit the model (many - not all - of which I've got rid of with the needle-nosed tweezers). Might look at getting some basic "school white" glue. Probably a lot more novice-friendly.

    I must have set the PDF print wrong. The wing sheets didn't quite print out (and I'm too cheap to re-print on this test model). If you look at the black cut-out wing notice the top-edge which should be grey is white, along with the tips on the left (it's not camera flash glare). Those are literally the edges of the paper. You can see the un-cut wing overlay is missing it's edge on the bottom too. I'm just going to cut at the colour's edge on that one, the wing it goes on has a fully coloured edge.

    Anyway, more cutting out to do of solar panels and wing struts...


    Attached Files:

  2. kolacho

    kolacho Member

    nice model!
  3. Revell-Fan

    Revell-Fan Co-Administrator Administrator

    A good start! Try Uhu white glue, it doen't make a spider web between your fingers! ;-) . But be careful, it is water-based. Use it sparingly and apply it with a brush (if you have one). Use regular Uhu glue for larger areas to prevent the paper from wobbling. You may fix the missing texture on the paper by colouring the white parts with water colours. Good luck!
  4. dnalor

    dnalor Active Member

    it looks great.
    And speed isn't everything :)

    And when it is starwars it is ALWAYS good :)
  5. Revell-Fan

    Revell-Fan Co-Administrator Administrator

    Right, I forgot... Any scratch, dent and smudge adds to the realism of the thing. So if there are any missing parts, misprints or missing wing tips, call it "battle-damaged"! :thumb:
  6. dnalor

    dnalor Active Member

    you know the drill :)
    Used galaxy, so any defaults...are realistic
    And my ships are VERY realistic :-D
  7. Revell-Fan

    Revell-Fan Co-Administrator Administrator

    Recently, on the last model-con:
    "Hey Jim, your SW models look so realistic. How do you do that?"
    - "Well, I simply build them oob and then let the dog play with them for five minutes."
  8. Spartacus

    Spartacus Member

    Thanks for the comments. I was busy last night but tonight after work (I work 5-11pm) I'll be trying to finish it off.

    I have ordered a metal ruler (to help edge scoring), some more X-Acto blades (still on my 1st one!), and some white glue, though that'll have to be for future products.

    Probably need to check my paper's GSM, I have whatever random el-cheapo white paper was in the printer, though the body is sturdy enough and the wings should be as they are two pages glued together plus a strut either side too.
  9. ShadowHawk141

    ShadowHawk141 Member

    If this is your first papermodel then yeah don't try the realy hard one's to soon.
    I started a model that I thought was simple but turned out to be a real ordeal. You learn a lot that way but it can also be frustrating.

    I like the Tie Defender, better then the normal Tie, the three wings etc.

    My first model was made with 180gsm which is fine but my next model will be build with 160gsm, a bit thinner and I think it produces a cleaner model because of that.
    When I need thicker parts I'll laminate it or use 1.5mm cardboard on which I glue the 160gsm cut-out.

    Just my two cents.

    For a testbuild it looks pretty sharp :)

  10. thyrrus

    thyrrus Member

    I think you're doing quite good ^^
    For the fold lines i suggest you use a scoring tool AND a metal tuler (those that are really thin) it takes a little more time since you prepare all the folds with the scoring tool but the results are there.

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