Wing Trailing Edges?

Discussion in 'Aircraft & Aviation' started by wyverns4, Apr 10, 2006.

  1. wyverns4

    wyverns4 Member

    I'm rather new to card-model aircraft and have a question about the wings, elevators and rudder. How do you get a nice, even, straight edge on the trailing edges of these parts? I'm afraid any sort of clamping scheme will leave an unwanted "step" at the TE, and trying to hold and glue "in the air", by hand, will result in a warped surface!

    Working on a Halinski P-40E and really enjoying it! Quite a change from the plastic kits I'm used to!


  2. Bowdenja

    Bowdenja Active Member

    Well for me........... I run a line of glue down the entire length, next to the edge. I then fold over the wing and press down the entire length on a FLAT smooth surface. If you use a thin line of PVA(elmer's) the paper will adhere very rapidly. Hope this helps.


    I also score the edge if it has a fold-in glue tab. I do not score the leading edge as this will not yield a rounded leading edge.
  3. Darwin

    Darwin Member

    My technique is to place a thin bead of white glue down the trailing edge, about as close to the edge as I can get. Assuming no undercamber in the wing, I then lay the bottom of the wing panel on a flat, relatively non-stick surface, like a pane of glass (or my favorite...a plastic CD case). Taking care to keep the wing bottom flat, mate the upper wing surface trailing edge to the lower. Then use a straight edge (or a second CD case) to evenly clamp down the trailing edge until the glue sets....usually not too long. The clamping device only has to contact about one thirysecond of an inch or so (chordwise) of the upper wing surface to be effective....this will not be enough to make a really noticable step. For very large wing panels, you could try one of those plastic snack-bag clamps. The suckers are about 8 to 10 inches long. If you line the clamping surfaces with thin cork (available in most crafts stores and better electronics stores for use as non-scratch pads on electronics cases, jewelry boxes, etc.), it will give a fairly good grip on the part you are clamping, but has a disadvantage of giving the clamp a surface that excess glue absolutely loves to stick to.

    If you are really fanatical about the appearance of the trailing edge, you could try making a gluing strip out of some really cheap (about 20 lb or less) copy paper that extends the length of the trailing edge, and about 1/2 inch wide. Sharply crease and fold (a full 180 degrees) the gluing strip down its length. Glue one face of the gluing strip to the lower wing panel trailing edge and let it dry...the portion of the gluing strip that will contact the upper panel should be about 90 degrees to that glued to the lower surface (in other words, take care not to glue the two working surfaces of the gluing strip together yet). When dry, crease the gluing strip so the half for the upper panel lies flat against the half glued to the lower panel. Put a very thin film of glue on the upper trailing edge. Holding the lower wing panel so it is flat against your building surface, fold over the upper panel and mate up the two trailing edges. When the glue is fairly well set up (but not yet completely dry), carefully run a thin, flat edge (like the blade of a butter knife) down between the upper and lower wing panels to separate any tack-glued regions in the gluing strip, allowing the strip to act like a hinge holding the upper and lower wing panels together at the trailing edge. If you are really persnickity, locate the crease in the gluing strip about 1/64th inch inboard from the trailing edge of the wing. It's a bit of a hassle, but gives as near perfection to the TE of the wing as humanly possible.

Share This Page