windows

[eric halpin]

I have just about finished the assembly of the Walthers Cornerstone kit 'Glacier Gravel'. However, I do not like the appearance of no window glass in the window openings. I see in the Walthers catalog under scratch building supplies by Midwest that they have several products which I could use for glass BUT i don't know the difference between them! Can you advise as to the difference between clear pvc; clear polyester & clear polycarbonate and what is recommended in my case. I also remember a clear pvc? that already had window panes marked on it but can't seem to find it anymore! Is it still made?

Thanks folks

 

[Russ Bellinis]

If the windows use mullions, and the glass area between the mullions is about 1/4 inch or less, the easiest method might be to use Microclear (I think that is the correct product name). It is a gel that is painted between the mullions. It looks milky like elmers glue when wet, but dries clear. You put it on your paint brush and touch it to a corner of the window and then kind of drag the brush around and the product will build up to make a bubble across the window, then dries clear.

 

[MasonJar]

Eric,

Microclear is one solution. As Russ said, it's a liquid that dries clear, much like Modge Podge or white glue. It does not give a perfectly flat finish though, and the windows will tend to be thicker at the bottom unless you can get the windows flat on the desk for "installation".

If you have any clear plastic "clamshell" packaging sitting around, that will do fine for windows. Secure it with a *tiny* drop of CA (super glue) at each corner. Too much will run across the glass and spoil it.

You could also use any kind of shiny black plastic, if you do not want the interior to be seen. Plastic from the lid og the President's Choice ice cream (at least the older plastic tub) worked well.

Hope that helps.

Andrew

 

[doctorwayne]

For windows in structures, especially those made of styrene, splurge on a package of Evergreen .010" clear styrene sheet. The product number is 9006, and for about four bucks, you'll get three 6"x12" sheets, enough to do tons of windows. Even better, you can use the same styrene cement that you used to assemble the structure. It won't yellow, like acetate, and the windows won't drop out after a couple of years, like they do when cemented in place with ca.
Live it up! :-D

Wayne

 

[eric halpin]

Thanks fellas for the info

 

[csxengineer]

glacier gravel

Other than that, how did you like the kit? Mine is on back order.

 

[eric halpin]

Glacier Gravel kit

Its a nice, real nice kit. I spent a fair bit of time with it so it would look good and I think it looks great. Went together without a hitch. I added windows, chains to the hoist, safety gates to the upper hoist bay, weathered it with powders, painted any steel components a solid rust color as they suggest and stuck a worker standing on a hidden platform looking out the hoist bay.

I did have to file part of one wall to make sure the steel hopper assembly slid inside easily. IT IS A GREAT STRUCTURE.

Eric

 

[olamat]

Or, you could use a sheet of clear overhead foil, the kind you use in the office, that you can write on. Or even better: Use the kind of overhead foil that can be used in a laser printer, make the window mullions as graphics and print them on the foil. If you have a color printer or copy machine you could color your windows - great in dirty industrial buildings.

This stuff is also great for making signs in windows - the use is stopped by your imagination ;-)