White Edges...

Discussion in 'Tips, Tutorials & Tools' started by RichBohlman, Nov 18, 2006.

  1. RichBohlman

    RichBohlman Railroad Card Modaler

    Looking for suggestions as to what others do with the white edges that show on a model after they are cut out?

    THANKS - Rich
  2. gwssms

    gwssms Member

    Rich, I use Sharpies sometimes, but you have to be very careful with them because they bleed so badly. Another option is colored pencils, which i have had some success with but they are pretty tedious to use because the tip of the pencil has to be wet, and then the danger is that you will soak the edge of the paper. I have heard of people using watercolors, but I'm afraid of this. A better option might be to use acryilic paints which are not so "wet". I have also heard that some people use pastel crayons or chalk. I have not tried either. I think mainly it depends on what model you are touching up as to which medium would work best. I hope you can find something useful out of one of these ideas.
  3. SCEtoAux

    SCEtoAux Member

    I use Prang colored pencils to color the edges after the part is cut out and before it is glued to any other part. I also color a little bit of the glue tab close to the fold line because sometimes some white shows, escpecially when I always don't get the fold just right.:roll: :oops:

    Some models have a large, flat uncolored area on some pieces where another piece is glued. In those cases I also color in around the perimeter of the designated glue area.

    The Prang pencils have sort of a waxy feel to them that helps in applying the color. I keep a small container of water close by too. A real quick dip in the water allows the color to flow like a water color pencil. I have never had any trouble with over soaking the edge of the paper. Like I said, a real quick dip. I have found that it also helps cover some unsightly white areas after the parts are assembled, even if they have some glue residue on them. I always seem to miss some edging, or don't always get the parts together correctly.
  4. jleslie48

    jleslie48 Member

    I believe Nancy Reagan in the 1980's said it best:

    Say no to crack.

    Obviously she was a paper modeler. ;)

    It is very important that absolutely no white edges, backsides, uncolored paper
    show on your model for a truly finished look. I would imagine a good 30-50% of my time building a model is dedicating to coloring the edges and backsides of the paper to ensure that from any angle the white side of ALL SIX SIDES of a piece of paper that are visible are colored. Yes a piece of paper is 3 dimensional and like a cube, has six sides.

    Ironically, it really doesn't matter much what color you use to fill in the white, just as long as its not white. I've built the Nautilus using a Purple marker to fill in the gaps because someone once suggesting that the patina on of salt water on copper flux would be purple. I thought at first it would look ridiculous, but the result blended in perfectly.
  5. popala

    popala Member

    I usually buy paint with colors matching the model I am currently building (I hate painting and mixing paint). For Halinski's Hurricane I bought Humbrol RAF dark earth, RAF light blue and RAF dark green. They matched perfectly. You have to dilute the paint quite a bit (about 1 part paint to 3 parts thinner) and touch up from the back of the paper. If you touch up from the side, the paint can soak through the painted surface. The thinning does two things: it allows the paint to soak into the paper and it lightens the paint. I found that touching up with colors slightly lighter than the print of the model is much less noticeable than touching up with colors darker than the print.
  6. Kaz

    Kaz Member

    I use a flat paintbrush and watercolour pencils, mixing the paint on the pencil tip itself. and dragging the edge of the brush along the papers edge. Thats when I remember to do it!
  7. rowiac

    rowiac Member

    I use different methods for coloring edges depending on the application and color.

    For colored edges of different shades, I use watercolor pencils. These look like regular colored pencils, but when you dip the tip in water, you can blend them like watercolor paints, and sort of paint with the tip of the pencil. The set I have is made by Staedtler, but they are made by other companies as well, such as Derwent. I got my set at Staples. Some people have said that wetting the tips of regular colored pencils works for the them, but the Prang brand ones I have don't seem to work very well.

    If the colors are brighter and easier to match, I use a set of Pentel felt pens. These will bleed into the edge of the paper if you aren't careful. The Pentel set I have has about 20 different colors. A few of them, such as the lightest gray, get used a lot more than others and have run out of ink.

    For pure black edges, I use a black Sharpie pen.

    For gray colors, you can either use a gray watercolor pencil, or my latest find is the Prismacolor Premier Art Marker, which comes in many shades of gray. I have the 20% and 40% Cool Grey colors. The 20% is so light, you can hardly see it. The 40% is more useful, and I'll probably buy a 60% to get more of a range. These pens do not bleed like the Pentels. I found them at Michael's.

    You really need to try different methods to find what you like the best.

    Hope that helps.

  8. cgutzmer

    cgutzmer Guest

    Roger, I have to disagree. My prismacolor markers from Michaels bleed like the dickens. Have to be super careful with them. Maybe I just got an overwet one :) course maybe they are just too new. I am still on my first model with them.
  9. davelant

    davelant Member

    I have seen some good results with "Fibracolor" water-based markers; the set of 100 different shades and colors is often available for $20 or less. The "Tombow" art markers, also water based, work well, but are quite expensive. Any solvent-based markers I have tried bleed too much ("Copic" brand, for example.)
  10. rowiac

    rowiac Member

    Are you using the wide fat tip or the small pointy end of the marker? I use the small end to avoid getting too much ink on the edge. It might take a little longer, but seems to do a better job. Also, since the gray markers I use are a light gray, a little bit of bleeding doesn't usually hurt as compared to a darker gray or black.


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