what's my camera

Discussion in 'General Card Modeling' started by papertrain, Mar 8, 2007.

  1. papertrain

    papertrain Member

    I have been in digital photography for about 8 years. MY first camera (digital) was, and is an Olympus D-360 1.3 mp. Cost me over 400 when i got it. It has a great closeup feature and i found i can get about 2" away from an object and get a great clear picture. This last month I decided it was time i upgraded to a "better" camera. I found a nice Kodak 7.1 mp on sale for 150. I thought to myself what a great thing this is going to be for my models. ( I also take a lot of pictures of real trains and it is great for that,) maybe i just dont know how to use it, but for closeups, it leaves a lot to be desired. They are not clear and I am not pleased. Back to the old one. My workhorse. The new one has some nice features but they are not that good for close work. I guess that not all cameras are created very equal. Just becasue it has better mp does not mean everything.8) :cry: I also got a $20 digital 1.3 mp...it is okey but it is to slow for what i do and the pictures really are not what i like. For somethings i guess it would be okey:oops:

    I am wondering what others experiences have been with different cameras. I am thinking that for closeup work and posting to the net a camera does not require much in the way of mp.:-D

  2. Zathros

    Zathros Guest

    I just purchased my second digital camera. My first was a Canon Digital Elph 2.1mp. I have just purchased a Canon SD600 6 megapixel. It record 1 Gig of video with sound. It was $209 at Circuit city with $29 more for a 2 Gig SD card. My 7 year old Elph works perfect, I just wanted longer video capability. The SD600 can record 1/2 hour clips at 640 x 800 and that takes 1 gig of space. The camera then needs to process a little bit but then can record the next 1/2 hour. Anything less, like 20 or 30 second clips can be done however often you wish. The Macro pictures are really good, so no complaints here, you just have to make sure the lens is retractd all the way and the little macro flower is pressed.
  3. cgutzmer

    cgutzmer Guest

    Olympus is known for its high optical quality. What is the minimum focal range on your new camera? I bet its not at close.
  4. Zathros

    Zathros Guest

    @cgutzmer, not sure I understood you question but I can get the camera about 1" from the object then press but button softly and 2 focusing orange boxes come up and let you see the sharpness of the photo, the click. They look god. I will be using on "My Ekranoplan" when I restart the project next week.
  5. papertrain

    papertrain Member

    i think the Kodak has a focal length of about 3 miles.8) :cry: :grin:
  6. Bowdenja

    Bowdenja Active Member

    Hey............ check out my Free Model build to see what I used................ hint..........webcam.

    I just ordered a new one to try, this one will take 1024 x 768 still images, where the one used for the build thread was limited to 800 x 600.

    We'll see if it makes any difference. I have NEVER been able to take pictures, as my hand tremors and thus the picture is ALWAYS out of focus. That is one of the reasons I'm trying the webcams............ hands free pictures!

    You guys do not have any idea how much I envy the pictures that are posted here......... maybe one day I'll splurge for a great big megapixle camera with a small tri-pod and shutter remote.......... but for now I'll stick with the under $25 webcams with all that built in.:grin:
  7. ekuth

    ekuth Active Member

    I use an Olympus FE-120 6.1 Megapixel that I bought about a year ago after wasting money on other, cheaper cameras. Haven't looked back since. The initial investment pushed $300.00, but it's been worth it.

    In addition to an actual optical lens vs. just a sensor, the Olympus will record sound and video as well. This thing has more options than my stereo... one feature that I use constantly in my build threads is the Macro and Supermacro feature- I can get insanely close to what I'm working on and get great pics. It also has a 12 second delay feature which comes in perfect for getting steady shots.

    It has built in flash, but I hardly ever use it because the optics on this camera are just superb and ambient light is often more than enough.

    Here's the link:

  8. paper warrior

    paper warrior Member

    I've got a high MP camera myself, just put a magnifying glass over the lense for close-ups.
  9. Alcides

    Alcides Member

    Lens. The more important component in a camera is the lens.

    With 3 megapixels you have enough for family prints. More is only necesary if you are going to do something very big.

    You need a lens with a good close-up distance at macro setting.

    Another important thing is you have to put the camera in Macro mode.

    By the way the digital cameras are very good for macro work. Could you tell me wich model is your camera?
  10. paper warrior

    paper warrior Member

    Sony CyberShot. 7.2 mp. Model #DSC-W7.
  11. Kaz

    Kaz Member

    I have to disagree with you, a bit, in the lens quality. The most important factors (IMHO) is the sensor, followed by the transfer software from RAW to JPG, followed by the lens.
    I am still a dinosaur inasmuch I use a film based camera for all my important photowork, but will admit to having a 3mp pocket OLYMPUS MJU around for quick photo uploading and a 2MP camera on my cellphone.
    Papertrain, put a rule on a flat surface, put your camera on selftimer and if possible on a tripod. This will dispel and camera shake errors. Place it above the rule at one end, and pointing very slightly down take a shot. This will let you know how close your camera can take a macro shot, that part of the rule will me in focus.
  12. Ashrunner

    Ashrunner Member

    Alcides is correct...the absolute most important feature of ANY camera is the lens. Without good glass, you won't get a good image. There are minor difference in the CCDs or CMOSs used in cameras these days, but for most part, all of them produce similar images. Sure, there are different megapixels, but they mean nothing past 3 megapixels unless your goal is fine art or large prints. RAW images are great for the true photographer who wants to do "darkroom" work. But almost every camera available today also shoots in JPG mode which means the conversion from RAW to JPG is eliminated.

    But the glass...oh yes...the glass. You can't get good images without it. The inexpensive cameras and some of the webcams use plastic. It produces images with very little contrast. Poor glass does the same, but not as badly. The only problem is paying for good glass. It is expensive. The best thing for model photos is a camera with a "close focusing" lens. Some companies call this Macro and even fewer call it Close Focusing. A camera with macro or close focusing will allow for smaller apertures values which will increase the depth of field. If you want good close up photos, set your aperture to one of the highest numbers...i.e., f/11 or /f16. That will provide a deeper depth of field. Then focus in on the central section of the object you want to photograph. Everything in front and behind the central area should be in focus then.

    Macro...close focusing...these days, they are almost interchangeable capabilities meaning the same thing. However, when shooting most cameras today, there is a setting on the dial strictly for Macro or close focusing. Most use a flower like symbol for it. Make sure you set your camera on that mode. The camera then knows to set for maximum depth of field. And always use a tripod or something to keep the camera steady while shooting.
  13. rlwhitt

    rlwhitt Active Member

    I have the Canon S2 IS. In addition to a huge image stabilized zoom (12X) and about every other bell and whistle you need for a general purpose cam (including an excellent movie mode), it has dual macro modes: a normal mode that is comparable to many cams out there, and a "super macro" that can focus to the front surface of the lens. In other words, you can get close enought to a subject that it touches the lens! (Not that you really want to do that...)

  14. SCEtoAux

    SCEtoAux Member

    I use a Canon PowerShot A80. For close-ups using the macro function I put it on a mini tripod and use the timer. Less jiggle so less fuzziness. The LED screen can be swung out and positioned at different angles so it makes it easier to see what you are shooting. I use the view finder most of the time, though, to keep from draining the batteries too quick. But sometimes, as in taking some close-ups, the LED screen is a must.:)
  15. Kaz

    Kaz Member

    Hmmm... Well the Canons and their very good lenses use a CMOS sensor (as they own most patents to them) and an Olympus with its lack of 'Professional' status uses a more common CCD sensor.
    I know which I would rather have out of the two.
  16. Ashrunner

    Ashrunner Member

    And Nikon uses CCD. Canon makes their own CMOS sensors. Most other camera makers use the sensor the few CCD makers there are. This includes Nikon and Olympus. The two sensor types do basically the same thing to produce the image. Without good glass, that image is degraded. My photo gear is Canon...because their glass is some of the best on the market.

    When doing macro or close-up photography, depth-of-field is most important to getting an image where everything is in focus. Experiment with various f stops in the larger numbers to see which works best. And do use a tripod or some other form of support. With the very small tolerances of most focusing fields when shooting close in, it is very easy to see the subject in focus just before pressing shutter release, and that movement will throw the subject out of focus. A support keeping the camera still will eliminate this problem.
  17. Kaz

    Kaz Member


    Not wanting to get into an argument with you, I suppose we will have to agree to disagree on the glass vs sensor part.
    I wasn't questioning the CCD vs CMOS either, both have good and bad points, but the Foveon sensor, is, (imo) quite awful. Mind you the Big Boys, Canon, Nikon, Olympus and Kodak et al, will produce more than acceptable results for most peoples needs.

  18. Rick Thomson

    Rick Thomson Member

    I'm quite happy with my Olympus Mju400, suits my needs sofar, and if I want to go back to film, I have my old reliable Pentax ME, one of the last of the all metal frames I think.
  19. Zathros

    Zathros Guest

    I guess one could regard any other camera as "Canon fodder". I'm sorry, just couldn't resist that.............
  20. rowiac

    rowiac Member

    This is sort of off-topic, but have you ever wondered how a camera lens is made?


    By the way, my camera gear is also all Canon - my 35mm cameras (an old AE-1, an Elan IIe SLR and a SureShot 105) don't get used any more because my S400 Digital Elph has supplanted them.


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