What to Use to Keep the Corners True

Discussion in 'FAQs' started by TomPM, Jan 7, 2004.

  1. TomPM

    TomPM Another Fried Egg Fan

    I am in need of something to keep the corners of my structures at 90 degrees while they are drying. What kind of corner brace/jig/clamp should I purchase or make?

    I was looking at the magnetic corner jig that Micro Mark offers. Is this something I want to invest in?
  2. Tileguy

    Tileguy Member

    I use magnets,however,there is a new corner clamping jig out there designed for our models that looks like just the ticket.It was in last months MR i believe.It even allows the ability to glue after setting clamps.Looks like an ingenious little device and if i were investing in anything,i believe this would be it.I wish i could remember what it was called:confused:
  3. MasonJar

    MasonJar It's not rocket surgery

    Hi Tom,

    Saw your question over at Train Board as well, and the negative feedback on the magnetic jig. That is disappointing, as I was thinking about getting one of those...:(

    This just occured to me - if you have an adjustable/combination square, could you not remove the "right angle part" and clamp your sides to it with magnets? Will magnets stick to it? I am going to try tonight... (see picture)

    Lee Valley has all kinds of little tools to keep things square, like these Engineer's Squares as small as 2", and this Set-up block kit that is nice and square, but made of aluminum, so magnets won't stick.


    Attached Files:

  4. Bill Stone

    Bill Stone Member

    The corner clamp Andrew mentioned does look like a nifty little rig. It was recently reviewed in either MRR or RMC.

    But angle plates work nicely, particularly with magnets. There are some details on using them for structure assembly in both magazines' February issues. Model Railroader, page 65. And Railroad Model Craftsman on page 59. The RMC article also mentions something called a machinists 1-2-3 block.

  5. MasonJar

    MasonJar It's not rocket surgery

    Credit where credit is due... ;) The jig was actually mentioned by Tileguy. And it does look cool... :)

    I think :confused: the machinists 1-2-3 block would be the same thing as the Lee Valley set-up block.

  6. Catt

    Catt Guest

    Set up blocks and 1,2,3 blocks are two different items.

    Set up blocks are used for setting clearences between straightedges and sawblades or drill bits to ensure a consistant spacing for cutting metal or wood or plastic to a specified width.They are also used to ensure that a drilled hole is a consistant distance from the edge of the stock.

    1,2,3 blocks primary function was to keep clamping devises level when anchoring dies and fixtures in a machine.They get their name from the fact that they are 1"x2" x3" insize and are machined to very close tolerences.They are also used as stop blocks ,and have several threaded holes used to hold threaded rods for attaching lineclamps for collant hoses and other things.

    Now I use my 1,2,3 blocks to steady the walls in a building I am bashing or scratchbuilding.By the way these blocks come in other sizes also.I have seen 2,4,6 and 4,8,12 blocks.The 2,4,6 blocks could be of some use for modeling but the bigger blocks IMO would mostly just get in the way.I believe there other sizes beyond these.

    Ok,that's it for Machine Shop 101 today,class dismissed :wave:
  7. Tileguy

    Tileguy Member

    I'm not greedy, i'll share the credit :thumb:
  8. satokuma

    satokuma Member

  9. MasonJar

    MasonJar It's not rocket surgery

    Can't get your link to work, even when I cut and paste it.

  10. Catt

    Catt Guest

    Try this one.


    Don't ask why mine works and his doesn't cause I don't know.

    Edit again,I now know how to fix his link but this isn't my forum so I can't repair it.:(
  11. Fred_M

    Fred_M Guest

    Square corners in buildings? What a novel and non prototypical idea.;) Several years ago I worked for a flooring company. Most buildings are not square. The worst I remember was an old skating rink dating from the 1940's that was being remoldeled. The building was 40 by 60 feet and was 10+ feet different in the diagonal measures. The owner was a XXX and gave us grief about the pattern in the linoleum he purchased not being straight. I had to show him three times that his building was crooked and not our product. DASH
  12. jon-monon

    jon-monon Active Member

    hehehe I have an almost 100 year old home and three things I've noticed, a 2 X 4 is 2 inches thick, and 4 inches wide, 100 year old pine is a hardwood, and a carpenters square was invented less than 100 years ago.

    When I replace a bunch of the flooring and moved the heater duct outlets in the living room, I had to reuse as much as I could, then make my own fir flooring, because modern lumber is almost an inch narrower.

    When tiling a floor, your supposed to make a line down the middle of the room, parallel to the largest wall, then draw a line 90 deg to that. Forget that, just eye ball it, or else it will look really crooked.
  13. Fred_M

    Fred_M Guest

    Down here they used oak. After 50 years oak becomes rock. I stripped the gears in a 3/8 inch drill trying to drill a 1/2 hole in oak with a spade bit. I lived in a 2 story house where the studs went from foundation to peak in one long oak 2x4. It had lathe nailed on them and the nails were easier to cut off than try and pull. We used lots of liquid nails in that house. DASH
  14. MasonJar

    MasonJar It's not rocket surgery

  15. TR-Flyer

    TR-Flyer Member

    That's called balloon framing and was used at and before the turn of the last century. Most everything today is platform framed. Uses shorter lumber, younger trees.


Share This Page