What Should I Do First?

Biggerhammer

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Mar 22, 2001
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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Charlie:
DON'T PUT OIL ON YOUR TRACK!! Every kind of dirt in the world is going to get stuck in that, & you'll just end up with a big ball of nasty!
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Again I accent my lack of experience. Oil in the sliding spots was specifically suggested by at least one book that I read. What do you use to keep your glue from binding where it should not?
 

Woodie

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Mar 23, 2001
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Bigghammer,

I wish there was such a glue!!!
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I'd be first in the queue to buy some!

TOOT!
 

Drew1125

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Jan 28, 2001
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Biggerhammer,
As long as you're not using anything stronger than 50/50 diluted white glue, & you haven't ballasted the throwbar, you shouldn't have any problem.
Diluted white glue, while an excellent adhesive for bonding ballast, & other scenery materials, is ineffective for bonding metal & plastic, the components of a commercial turnout. Like I said, if the throw bar feels like it's stuck after the glue has dried, then MANUALLY move the throwbar, & it should break free easily, & remain free.
Now if you've ballasted & bonded your throwbar, THEN you've got a problem. Once again, keep ballast off the throwbar.
If you feel you need to lubricate the moving parts of your turnouts, use powdered graphite. Kadee makes it, & it comes in a little tube, so you can squirt it wherever you need it.
 

George

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Jan 1, 2001
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I'm so sorry most of you cannot procure Homasote where you live for a sub-roadbed.

It sounds like WT&C and I should go into a business of shipping Homasote around to hobby shops and exporting paint!
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And find that book that says to put oil on your track and shred it to make some scenery!

Charlie, you really don't want graphite anywhere near your locomotives. Try a dry lubricant on the turnout if you really need one. Since 1965, I've never heard of anyone needing to lubricate a turnout.

I tend to think that if you have trouble with a turnout and it's old, the best thing is to replace the entire thing.

george.