What do you use...?

Discussion in 'General Card Modeling' started by gman95687, Jan 9, 2009.

  1. gman95687

    gman95687 Member

    I am just wanting to pick the brains of some of the experienced card modelers here on the forum and ask them, when building a kit and it calls for thicker cardstock for making formers, bulkheads, frames, etc, what materials do you use for this type of construction.....?

  2. Lex

    Lex Dollmaker

    Cereal boxes! :D
  3. SCEtoAux

    SCEtoAux Member

    Laminate cardstock using a spray adhesive. Sandwich between books and use weights on top to help prevent warping.

    The thick cardboard from the back of pads of paper.

    Cereal boxes (already referenced).

    Foam core.

    Corrugated cardboard.

    Some use balsa wood.

    You can buy an inexpensive digital caliper to measure the thickness of the various materials so you can determine how many layers would be needed to get to the final thickness needed. :)
  4. Mousemuffins1

    Mousemuffins1 Member

    I use card in the thickness required from a stationers. it's not that expensive, and comes in virtually every thickness I could desire up to 1mm. For smaller, more detailed pieces that need to be a bit thicker than regular card, I find laminating paper makes for more control, and no chance of delaminating.
  5. Darwin

    Darwin Member

    Soda pop cartons. If undressed, my models could be recycled as Coca-Cola billboards. For larger models, I use mat material that is used in picture framing. Bass wood is also an option, but more expensive than the others. If weight is ever an issue, I use styrofoam from food containers.
  6. sakrison

    sakrison Member

    I scrounge cardboard from note pads, writing pads, junk mail, retail packaging, cereal boxes, gift boxes, candy boxes . . . the list goes on.

    I don't use corrugated cardboard, though I have some very thin, very stiff corrugated stuff from a gift box--still looking for a use for it.

    I don't use picture framing mat board because it's too hard to work with--too dense. For the same thickness (about 2mm), laminating two layers of 1mm from a legal pad gives me a 2mm card that's easier to cut and more than strong enough.

    I sometimes use basswood, mainly strips for wing spars.

    I laminate parts with Avery Glue Sticks or Aileene's Tacky Glue, and roll the laminated parts with a wallpaper seam roller. Larger parts sometimes get clamped between books, but the seam roller really works well.

    With the Avery Glue Sticks, I often have to touch up the bond around the edges with a little Tacky Glue. But that's easier than trying to spread Tacky Glue evenly over a whole part and a lot less toxic than spray adhesive.

    No worries,

    Attached Files:

  7. David H

    David H Member

    My contribution is card backing from new shirts and just about any packaging that comes into the house or office.

    I found that the packaging used by the ladies lingerie chain La Senza is just right and almost bang on 0.5mm (lucky Mrs H)!

    Trusty callipers to measure and use a thick black-marker to write on the thickness.

    It is wise to rub the surface of the more shiny cereal boxes with some sand paper before gluing.

  8. gman95687

    gman95687 Member

    Wow!!! Thank you all for your input I got excellent suggestions all around! now, my next question is about painting card models, what kind of paint and do you need to dilute it....? Thanks Much!!!!!
  9. sjsquirrel

    sjsquirrel Member



    I use watercolor paints from an art store. They come in a tube as a medium-thick paste. I generally dilute them a bit so they spread more thinly. I often have trouble getting a good color match (I'm no expert at mixing colors) but as long as it's close I find once I paint it, walk away for a couple hours, and then look, I'm generally quite satisfied with the results.

    Happy modeling,

  10. sakrison

    sakrison Member

    I use watercolor pencils from the university book store. My favorite brand is "Aquarelle" by Faber-Castell. I have:
    Light and dark grey
    Light and dark green
    Several shades of tan/brown
    and black

    I dip them in water or lick them (they're non-toxic) for a nice even coat on paper edges--with no wicking into the paper.

    I find that matching the color isn't nearly as important as matching the contrast. So my greys and black get the most use.

  11. David H

    David H Member

    I use several different brands of acrylic paint and domestic "wall" paint.

    "Decoart"is one I like although it is quite similar to poster-paint, it even comes in small plastic bottles one squeezes out.

    I usually add some water and go for two or three coats even though this stuff has very good covering power. Patience little one!

    I have also copied Johnny example and taken the printed kit to a paint store which scans and mixes up the colours (I am useless at mixing colours!). So far so good on this one. It is surprisingly inexpensive for the smallest tin (250ml about £3.00) which is just about enough to paint a good-sized piece of furniture. A lot less than model-strore paint.

    I have yet to try and spray this domestic paint but I think Johnny has applied it from an air brush.

  12. Lex

    Lex Dollmaker

    Anything that works for plastic, I have the Revell range with me. Though water-based acrylic ones aren't that good because water soaks the paper, so you'll have to go for the more harmful enamel ones

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