Weathering Track

[rockislandmike]

So I've been busily working on a diorama for the photo contest (the diorama will also fit into my final layout). I took a couple of pics last night just to see how it looks in pics, and everything looks really kewl, **EXCEPT** for the shiny bright track !!!

Does anyone have any good tips for weathering this, with the proviso that I really don't want to tear it up, and I don't have an airbrush.

 

[billk]

Mike - Look into "paint pens" (the brand escapes.me) at an artsy-craftsy store. I got some at Michael's a while back. They're kinda lika a felt tip marker, except that they apply real paint. Various shades of brown are available. If you don't have a lot of track to weather, it's real easy to use them on the sides of the rails, without getting any on the tops.

 

[RaiderCTE]

re

I was in your boat not too long ago. Here is a pic of what I used. I run HO and I use the medium size. I took the applicator out and then used my xacto on it. That way it didn't get all over the ties and ballast but it worked well because it did hit the tie spike heads, close to what the proto looks like in my parts. The hard part is the turnouts. I was lucky enough to run into a mis colored paint at the local lowes that almost exactly matches the pen. I use a brush to hit some of the turn outs where the pen doesn't hit. The pen I got at the local Micheals. I probably did about 75 to 80 feet with Three pens. Check my pic in the photo contest for the results. I think they are pretty good for a rookie.

 

[60103]

Mike:
I just use a brush and paint. I've used various browns and rusts, but rust tends to have a fresh look. Humbrol makes a Track Colour, not sure what the number is. Avoid painting the contact surfaces on turnouts.
I usually use polly-s, but sometimes old Floquil (adheres to metal better).
If it's a small diorama you can get away with brush painting; for a layout you would want to take it easier.
One fellow used Cdn Tire auto primer in spray cans. Then he bought one batch where they'd changed from red primer to grey! (spray at a slight overhead angle; cover the rest of the scenery; clean rail tops afterwards.)

 

[Gary Pfeil]

Mike, I use a brush also. I use Polly S roof brown. It is not difficult to keep the brush in the web of the rail, and you can just use a bright boy to remove paint from the railhead.

 

[Lighthorseman]

Painting Rail...

I do the same as David and Gary. A small brush works well, and although a little patience is required, the end result (I think) looks nice.

For this picture, I used Floquil's "Rust".

 

[farmer ron]

Mike, I also do like the others, I use a brush, yes like Steve says it takes patients. I took a short length of rail down to the art supply store and got the right one for doing the sides of the rail and use it only for that. I use floquil rail brown on mine, I also use ceramacoat's charcoal for around switches and areas where loco's are sitting, dry brush, wide flat brush, it on ties. rail and ballast, feather it out. After ballasting, which I do last, I take a very diluted coat of rail brown and go over the rails again, only in areas where you will have the chance to see it up close, this allows the rust colored thinner to run down into the balast beside and underneith the rails, giving it that realistic appearance. Very happy with the results. Again it takes time and a little practice but the results I think are well worth it. Ron...