Discussion in 'HO Scale Model Trains' started by pierce, Jul 4, 2002.


Size of layout (not counting aislways, etc.)

  1. 50 sq. ft. or less

    1 vote(s)
  2. 51 to 100 sq. ft.

    0 vote(s)
  3. 101 to 150 sq. ft.

    0 vote(s)
  4. 151 to 200 sq. ft.

    1 vote(s)
  5. 201 to 300 sq. ft.

    0 vote(s)
  6. 301 to 400 sq. ft.

    1 vote(s)
  7. 401 to 500 sq. ft.

    0 vote(s)
  8. 501 to 1,000 sq. ft.

    0 vote(s)
  9. 1,001 to 2000 sq. ft.

    0 vote(s)
  10. over 2001 sq. ft.

    0 vote(s)
  1. zedob

    zedob Member

    I used the Envirotex and gloss medium techiques and believe that the latter is the easiest to use and gave me the most flexiblilty to to work. IT really pays to build a mini test diorama to try out base painting, brush strokes and silicone for rapids.

    I show how I made the water for my mill scene for the last Layout Party, which is not exactly what you are trying to do, but the techniques are the same, pretty much.


    Attached Files:

  2. doctorwayne

    doctorwayne Active Member

    Good looking rapids, and the scene around them is nice too. The stonework is very effective.

  3. Wyomingite

    Wyomingite Member

    Wayne and Zedob

    You both modeled some beautiful water scenes. Sure enjoyed
    your pictures.

    Ron :thumb: :thumb: :wave:
  4. Old 'n' Weary

    Old 'n' Weary New Member


    I tested some acrylic gloss medium on aluminum foil and it dried cloudy. Shouldn't it dry clear? Am I doing something wrong?
  5. hooknlad

    hooknlad Member

    Hi all: I watched this getleman use Future floor wax - he just poured it onto the area, let it dry and viola, instant water feature. For a water fall feature, he used some cotton, pulled it stringy, added some Future floor wax and viola, an instant water fall.. He was featured on " TLC's Working on the Railroad with Chris Chianelli.. Great show indeedy.. I have the entire list of shows TIVO'd, just waiting for my lazee butt to get around to putting them all on DVD.. 12 episodes so far...

    Hope that helped...
  6. Thoroughbreed

    Thoroughbreed Member

    Dr. Wayne, looks like I need to get a john boat and some jugs and get me some catfish from that there riversign1 :thumb: :thumb:
    Our river here locally doesnt get that high till Oct, but its definitely that wide. I need to study your method more whenever I build mine.
  7. Thoroughbreed

    Thoroughbreed Member

    Hooknlad, when you get chance to put that on pc, maybe ya could share w the rest of us? I'd love to see that, checked my cable listings, and not even avail here:cry: .
  8. hooknlad

    hooknlad Member

    Will do... pm me with your addy, and ill see what I can do for you.... THE GAUGE wouldn't have server space for 6 hours of "Workin' on the Railroad" on DVD, or would they????? I'll MT my TIVO onto DVD, then ?????????????????? this is where i get lost... Do you havea high speed connection? I have the fast DSL, but I dont think your ISP would appreciate me filling up your Email...hmmm.... I guess ill mass produce these things and snail mail them.. They're being madeas I type this..
  9. Nazgul

    Nazgul Active Member

    I used the easy plaster, paint and gloss medium method...the color can vary to suit your taste....this was my first try at modeling water and the method proved easy enough...Harold's stream is truly awesome though:thumb:
    on the top waterfall I used WS water effects, spread it out on a non stick surface and raked it with a tooth pick for texture...on the lower one I used plain old latex caulk and did the same. I added a little paint for color and then cotton for foam effects. They still need greenery and such. I obviously still have a lot of work to do!sign1
    View attachment 30229

    View attachment 30230

    Attached Files:

  10. Thoroughbreed

    Thoroughbreed Member

    If you could convert to divx, mpeg and then post to http://www.xdrive.com/ (5 gig free storage) and give us the links
  11. Gary Pfeil

    Gary Pfeil Active Member

  12. Tayder

    Tayder Member

    I have had excellent results using two-part epoxy. Actually the first time I used it I borrowed the epoxy from a fiber glass repair kit that I had sitting around. It worked great! Epoxy is easy to work with but not especially inexpensive. I haven't looked around lately for small quantities but I do know that Envirotex is pretty pricey as well.

    I really like the impression of "depth" that a little bit of epoxy provides.
  13. Jim Krause

    Jim Krause Active Member

    I can't make any comparisons. The only thing I've used is WS Realistic Water and that only as an experiment. As someone said earlier, " it takes awhile to cure".
  14. Alan Bickley

    Alan Bickley Member

    I recently visited an exhibition where one layout had rivers made with sheets of glass, painted underneath. Mind you, the layout was at least 30 years old!
  15. Jim Krause

    Jim Krause Active Member

    Now, back in the old days (oop's, here I go showing my age again) yes, glass was used as a water surface quite commonly since there was no plastic medium that looked or could be used as water. We have some really neat stuff now that wasn't available even 15 years ago.
  16. ejen34

    ejen34 Member

    WSRW :thumb:
  17. stripes

    stripes Member

    Magic Water!

    Magic Water is a 2 part mix, but by far is the easiest to use! It does not yellow with age or crack! And can be tinted any way you like! It can be poured all at once and drys within 24 - 48 hours depending on temp.



  18. hiscopilot

    hiscopilot Member

    I was at hobby lobby and 2 bags of the realistic water were priced at 3.89 when the others were priced at 10 something, so I bought the mispriced ones and I guess thats what I will use! :)
  19. MadHatter

    MadHatter Charging at full tilt.

    Water- Using resin

    For waterfalls I agree with the above- also do a few tests. :thumb:

    I suggest using resin, that dries clear, it will probably cost cheapest.

    First seal the bottom of your lake. Then depending on how deep you want the lakes to look you can- from the middle- paint the "deepest" point black and then as you get closer to the shoreline feather in dark to light blue, near the edges you can also throw down some small stones and "garbage".

    After everything dries, you can move to the resin pouring stage. Make sure you work where it is well ventilated and also make sure that your lake is level- otherwise your resin will move to one side!!- and pour as many coats as you want.

    Each coat takes +/- 48 hours to dry properly. From experience from working on other peoples layouts I find that seven thin layers work well. On the top layer, just before the layer dries, you can use a tooth pick to create "white caps" for a windy day or even to form waves- not that I've seen lakes with waves, just an idea for all the others that read this post. :cool:
  20. Jim Krause

    Jim Krause Active Member

    As others have mentioned, Envirotex for ponds and other still water. Works great, but needs a well sealed undersurface. I tried Woodland Scenics, Realistic water but it took so long to cure that I had dust specks embedded in the surface and it seemed to be slightly sticky to the touch for days after it was poured. I haven't gotten into the waterfall thing yet.

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