walthers kit
- Thread starter deeredriver
- Start date
Hi,
What kind of a kit are we talking about here?? Structures (buildings, water towers, etc.) I'll generally paint first (and apply window glazing) before assembly.
Cars generally come painted, so I'll assemble first and then touch-up and weather.
Gus.
What kind of a kit are we talking about here?? Structures (buildings, water towers, etc.) I'll generally paint first (and apply window glazing) before assembly.
Cars generally come painted, so I'll assemble first and then touch-up and weather.
Gus.
I've built lots of model airplanes in my life and I've always painted first. On the grain kit, I put it together first and have yet to paint it. I think this was a mistake. I wish I had painted first.
In most cases, build first, paint later. With the Walther's kits, I usually paint the doors, windows, etc. first, while they're still on the sprues, but I assemble the bulk of the building, minus details, before painting it. To properly cement any kit together, there should be no paint on the surfaces to be joined. It's simple to mask the gluing surfaces of windows and doors on the sprues. By painting the body of the building after assembly, you don't have to scrape paint off the gluing surfaces, and the joints, (and any touch-up you might have had to do to get a neat joint) will all get an even covering of paint. You can add the "glass" to the windows and then the windows to the structure and then weather the whole thing at the same time.
I built my free-lanced GERN INDUSTRIES Flux Mining and Milling Division using the Walther's ADM kit, plus the add-on siloes, plus Walther's Red Wing Milling, plus a lot of similar-style scratchbuilt structures to tie the whole works together, along with an attached scratchbuilt shipping warehouse and a small tank farm with shipping facilities. I built all of the kits as three-sided structures, using all of the walls facing the viewer; (shallow end walls and extended front -facing walls, and the unseen rear walls from blank .060 sheet styrene). The finished complex is almost 7' long and 20" high and occupies a footprint about 22" deep, with the mainline cutting between the structures. The siloes are elevated over a siding serving up to 6 covered hoppers at a time, and there are spots for 6 boxcars and a tank car at any one time. I built it as four major subassemblies, painting each upon completion, then adding the pre-painted windows and details, then painted the roof areas (with care, you can spray areas like this without masking), and finally assembled the complex together on-site. After the glue had set, I removed the by now cumbersome structure and added reinforcement and bracing as required, then weathered the whole think with washes of thinned Polly Scale black (using a brush), and when that had dried, took the whole works outside for an airbrush weathering of various Floquil colours. After planting it on the layout and finishing the scenery around it, I have not only a great traffic generating industry but also a fairly sizeable area for which I will not have to make trees.
Finally got a picture of what took me so many words to describe. Hope you like it.
Wayne
I built my free-lanced GERN INDUSTRIES Flux Mining and Milling Division using the Walther's ADM kit, plus the add-on siloes, plus Walther's Red Wing Milling, plus a lot of similar-style scratchbuilt structures to tie the whole works together, along with an attached scratchbuilt shipping warehouse and a small tank farm with shipping facilities. I built all of the kits as three-sided structures, using all of the walls facing the viewer; (shallow end walls and extended front -facing walls, and the unseen rear walls from blank .060 sheet styrene). The finished complex is almost 7' long and 20" high and occupies a footprint about 22" deep, with the mainline cutting between the structures. The siloes are elevated over a siding serving up to 6 covered hoppers at a time, and there are spots for 6 boxcars and a tank car at any one time. I built it as four major subassemblies, painting each upon completion, then adding the pre-painted windows and details, then painted the roof areas (with care, you can spray areas like this without masking), and finally assembled the complex together on-site. After the glue had set, I removed the by now cumbersome structure and added reinforcement and bracing as required, then weathered the whole think with washes of thinned Polly Scale black (using a brush), and when that had dried, took the whole works outside for an airbrush weathering of various Floquil colours. After planting it on the layout and finishing the scenery around it, I have not only a great traffic generating industry but also a fairly sizeable area for which I will not have to make trees.
Finally got a picture of what took me so many words to describe. Hope you like it.
Wayne
I guess it's to each his own. I do N scale, and on most kits, I'll paint first, then assemble. A bit of touch up and weathering after. It's just so much easier to do it that way, especially those kits where the windows and doors are separate, and especially brick walls. Now there are exceptions, like a storage tank or an industrial structure that isn't a building. I'm working on an electrical substation and I'm pre-painting some parts, and will wait until after assembly to paint the rest.
fifer
Active Member
Nick , I have to disagree with most of these guys.
On that kit you will need to build first then fill the seams of the grain bins and then paint. The kit is very similar to the old Medusa cement kit and I have constructed 2 grain kits and 2 cement kits.
Here is a pic of the completed Medusa Cement.
Mike
On that kit you will need to build first then fill the seams of the grain bins and then paint. The kit is very similar to the old Medusa cement kit and I have constructed 2 grain kits and 2 cement kits.
Here is a pic of the completed Medusa Cement.
Mike
That's a nice structure Mike.:thumb: Like I said, that's one of the exceptions I was talking about. But, even then, if there are parts that are hard to reach after assembly, it might require a bit of pre-painting before assembly. I think the approach to each kit is different.
fifer
Active Member
Don , you are correct. I was just pointing out that this particular kit is poorly designed with the seams in the most obvious viewed corner , which indeed makes it's construction unique.
Even the type of material the kit is made of makes each different. :thumb:
Mike
Even the type of material the kit is made of makes each different. :thumb:
Mike
I agree with Don that each kit needs to be looked at differently. I have assembled two of the ADM kits and fifer is right, the seams are in a terrible location. I assembled the shells first, filled in the seams, painted and then installed the windows. Meanwhile, I painted the roofs and other details before adding them.
Well, I guess I screwed that up. Posted a picture, finally. however, I used the "Edit" option to slip it in, so the thread didn't move up like I thought it would. I hope I'm not being rude by posting this little blurb to get it to move, but I am so darn pleased that I'm finally able to accomplish this. Thanks for your indulgence.
Wayne
Wayne
fifer
Active Member
Fantastic job, good looking structure, you should be proud.
One thing, you would be best to add the picture in a new post, that way it will "bump" the thread to the new post. By using "edit" as you found out, it didn't do that, plus your picture is now in the beginning of the thread and some might not realize that and not go back. Just a word of advice for future posts.
One thing, you would be best to add the picture in a new post, that way it will "bump" the thread to the new post. By using "edit" as you found out, it didn't do that, plus your picture is now in the beginning of the thread and some might not realize that and not go back. Just a word of advice for future posts.
doctorwayne said:
Thanks for the "blurb." I just click on the little new post icon on threads I've been following. Without your "blurb", I wouldn't have known to scroll back to look for a new pic. Great scene!!!
Russ
For most, I prefer to do most of the assembly esp parts that will be the same color. Doors and windows are usually best let on the sprue to be painted and attached latter. One problem I have with some Walthers Cornerstone kits is the the windows are cast with the mullions on them. For these like the attached ADM kit, I had vinyl masks made on a vinyl cutter, spray painted them, and attached them after painted the main structure.
