Using other material

Discussion in 'General Card Modeling' started by dakwinner, Apr 30, 2007.

  1. dakwinner

    dakwinner New Member

    After trying several attempts at building card models using only card stock, I have concluded that much better results can be obtained by using either thin balsa sheets or thin birch ply sheets instead of card stock.

    Any comments?
  2. David H

    David H Member

    What kinds of model project?

    I can mess em up regardless of the materials, but it is a fair point.

    I have been playing with blue foam to bulk out a hull recently.

    None the less I think there is a way to go with card and paper yet. Look at the various treatments, varnishes and glues we have at our disposal. And the endless variety of paper and card!

  3. I may be wrong but I'm not sure you're going to receive much agreement on that point in this forum. Of course much can depend on your subject matter...

    Having said that, I have had better results using glossy cover stock through a color laser printer than lacquering regualr cardstock to obtain a shiny finish. The glossy laser paper is different than glossy inkjet paper and does not suffer from most of the disadvantages that plague glossy inkjet paper. And no funny finishes you can get from a lacquer. I'm sure plenty in this forum would disagree with me on this one too. I can't say I have much experience with any of these mediums...

    I feel like I'm off on a tangent. Sorry. Let's talk about wood vs paper!
  4. John Griffin

    John Griffin Member

    Wood, eh? Do you know if it's possible to run balsa sheet through a printer? I think white sheet styrene would be a good material. I think it's available in near-A4 size and various thicknesses. And would take ink maybe. Then you'd end up with a plastic model!
  5. lizzienewell

    lizzienewell Member

    Whatever works is fine with me.

    I like paper because it's cheap and it doesn't split out. I use polystyrene at times.
  6. dakwinner

    dakwinner New Member

    Balsa or ply?

    My main interest in card modeling is ships; maybe this discussion makes more sense considering those types of models.

    I was thinking about using the wood for structural components only such as hull frames and decks. The paper stock could be laminated right to the wood. I never considered printing directly onto the wood.

    I remember reading a piece a few years back by a award winning European paper modeler who said that he used wood exclusively for at least decking. He also stated that a wood sub-deck makes it easier to install railings. It made sense to me. I can't recall his name.
  7. Rick Thomson

    Rick Thomson Member

    I figure what ever works for you is ok, I use 1mm card for structural frames mostly, and find it strong enough for my needs. The company I work for uses it for protective packing, and it is a bit of a bear to cut with a circle cutter, a real blade killer.

    Teak deck planks would look really nice on a warship though, and I know of a couple people that have used aluminium beer cans cut down and polished as cowlings or propellers.

    Hearesy I know...
  8. Maurice

    Maurice Member

    Can't see that there's a problem with it.
    Check the works of eatcrow2, Peter makes much judicious use of balsa reinforcement and support. No one's ever thought twice of it.

    Full blown plasticators are usually referred to
  9. paper warrior

    paper warrior Member

    I think it depends what you're doing. I'd MUCH prefer paper when building my tanks. Eh, posts for thought...
  10. gippolot

    gippolot Member

    I built the hull of the Schreiber & Bogen model of the Great Eastern, but instead of just using the card in the kit, laminated 1mm card to the bulkheads, and 2mm card to the central piece. It is about 1100mm long and incredably strong.

    But note, the good folks at Schreiber had the good sense to design a box section down the length, which acts as a cantilever to take the load, and helped make it so strong. The structural integrity of the hull is the easy part, getting the hull plates to fit smoothly &/or look "right', is the more difficult aspect.
  11. In a previous life I worked as a printer repairman. I worked mostly on HP Laserjets, but one printer I saw once in a while was a Tectronics (since bought out by Xerox) Phaser thermal wax printer. Talk about beautiful color finish. The thing is, the wax tended to crack, especially with earlier models. Apparently, Xerox has developed a wax that is much less prone to cracking. Just wondering if anyone has ever tried this method for a paper model?
  12. 46rob

    46rob Member

    Print your parts reversed on that paper used to make iron-on stuff for shirts. YOu should be able to tranfer to balsa or light plywood. Don't recommend it for styrene.
  13. paperbeam

    paperbeam Member

    Full Page Decal Sheets

    I've heard that these peel-off sheets (which I used for making large labels to go on retail bags and was very pleased with) can be easily transferred to many materials and stick really good.

    Much less expensive I believe than the iron-on T-shirt labels...:twisted:

  14. k5083

    k5083 Member

    Yes, I frequently print on the full-sheet Avery label stock and stick it on either sheet balsa or sheet foam where I wish to use those as structural parts. It sticks very well; in fact it is almost impossible to remove without leaving part of the bottom ply behind.

    For structural material, wood has two advantages over thick cardstock; it's less prone to bending/warping and you can sand the edges more easily. Cardstock, though, is less prone to splitting or cracking, plus cheap and easy to get.

    I started using foam to replace much of the thick cardstock in models that were supposed to fly, but I liked the properties of it so much that I began using it instead of thick card even in static models.

    Although I am a plastic modeler, I tend not to use styrene with paper models because it requires nasty toxic adhesives and there are not many things that will bond it well to card.

  15. Rick Thomson

    Rick Thomson Member

    <Although I am a plastic modeler, I tend not to use styrene with paper models because it requires nasty toxic adhesives and there are not many things that will bond it well to card.>

    Duct tape...the handymans secret weapon...
  16. Dave Treby

    Dave Treby Member

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