Undoing glued up parts

Discussion in 'Tips, Tutorials & Tools' started by Lionheart, Feb 17, 2005.

  1. Lionheart

    Lionheart New Member

    OK guys I need some help. I'm working on the Halinski P-51. I've begun gluing the skin to the frame work but have discovered I glued some parts of the skin to the wrong side of the frame piece. I'm using a white glue called Tacky glue. Is there ANY way I can undo these parts without totally distroying them? I've thought about trying to steam them apart but am afraid it will soak them with condensation. Do I just cut my losses and buy another kit? I know I should copy the things first for backups, but I don't have any kind of printer capable of that. Do you guys take plans to PIP or something?
  2. Leif Oh

    Leif Oh Member

    Since your alternative is to buy a new kit, why not attempt steaming them off first? If it's lost, it's lost, and you're no worse off than in your worst-case scenario. Might work though, particularly if you dry the parts out under pressure and layers of soaking paper afterwards. In any case, do tell the rest of us how it worked out...

    But first, wait up a bit, there might be a guru waiting in the wings with a miracle solution or solvent. Gil, or the rest of you Very Experienced People, are you reading this?


    VEPs for Very Experienced People - there, I even created a brand new acronym, almost like right out of Winnie the Pooh. The antonym, applicable to most of us, I guess is NOt So Very Experienced People, NOSVEPs... (All of this in retribution for PIP, which I just couldn't figure out.)
  3. Texman

    Texman Guest

    I'll add my own, MEP's, Moderately Experienced People. This MEP
    has had some luck very carefully slicing through the glue with a
    brand new #11 blade. The point allows you to get in really tight
    to release the parts.

    Might help, might not, but whatcha got to lose?

    Good Luck!!

  4. Lionheart

    Lionheart New Member

    Leif Oh - My apologies. I forgot not everbody lives in America and sees these places everyday as they drive to work. PIP = Postal Instant Press. It's a place you can go to to have all sorts of things printed... It's a franchise type printer, I think. Anyway, you're right, what have I got to loose? You and 'ol Tex are correct. I'll probably try a combination of both steaming and slicing..... Maybe we'll get some other good ideas along the way.
  5. jyduchene

    jyduchene Member

    I am with Tex. I have had some luck cutting and even gently tearing parts free. I fear that steaming will most certainly destroy the work. Paper and water nver mix whatever the form. I think if you can get a fine blade in and start the process sooner or later you will have opened it up enough to work with more conventional tools. Good luck.

  6. thomas-r

    thomas-r New Member


    I don't know Tacky Glue and can only share my experience with
    "unglueing". Mainly using UHU type glue I got good results with
    acetone (nail polish remover). (Attention: It solves the colour
    of laser printed copies. Offset print or water soluble ink jet print
    will not be harmed)

    My white glue smells slightly like vinegar - just try it with vinegars
    (first on a test assembly, not the real model).

    Good luck!

    GEEDUBBYA Active Member

    Hi Guys,

    Well, I am not sure about "tacky glue", but I do have some and I will be going back to work sunday night. I am senior machinist in a transformer factory and we have several solvents there, some that you might find in other manufacturing settings. But, we also use "vapor degreasers" such as trichlorethylene (111) and "perco" which are dry cleaning fluids. I will adhere a few peices of paper together with tacky glue and run some "tests" sunday night, I have an inkjet printer and not sure of the differences between them and laser printers, but, if the inkjet ink survives, then i would assume the laser copy would too.
    But, I do know that regualr glue is made from geletin and i know that geletin will revert to a liquid when heated, especially if there is some moisture in the heating process, you my dab a drop or two of water on the "joint" and place it in the microwave for a VERY FEW" seconds. Just long enough to saturate the joint with steam, this would prevent the steam from affecting other areas of the model. Or, try a hairdryer on high, blowing on the joint for a few seconds, maybe the heat will release the joint.
    Another suggestion is, make copies of your kit "pages" when you get them, then if you do mess up a part or parts, you can use the "copied piece" in lieu of the original, hopefully the ruined part wont be a major piece and the difference wouldnt be noticable. (This is where a good friend at the local kinkos, kwik-copy etc comes in handy, get to know the ppl there, they could save ya a headache in the future).
    I am not suggesting making multiple copies for re-distribution, merley a back up copy for ruined parts.
    Anyway, I will check out the dry cleaning fluids, and if they work, you can ruin to the drycleaner and ask them for a baby food jar of the fluids.

  8. Swinger

    Swinger Member

    I usually use a VERY sharp blade to "unglue" the parts. Of course, with a lot of care.
  9. Gil

    Gil Active Member


    Yes, I'm listening. I always make copies because I am sure that I'll need them for such exigencies. I really haven't tried dissolving PVA (tacky glue) with solvents. The issue is what the solvent will do to the paper structure and print. The model in question uses printer's ink which most likely is petroleum based which would be totally destroyed by most any solvent. I'm afraid that your best bet is to "cut" out the part. One area that might work though is to raise the temperature as was mentioned. I'm not sure whether this will sufficiently soften the adhesive to the point where it can be gently pulled apart but is worth a try if cutting isn't an option.


    GEEDUBBYA Active Member

    Its me again guys,

    Well I tried the dry cleaning fluids/degreasers I mentioned in the above posting and, although they did "unjoin" the glued surfaces, there was some damage to the colored areas in some cases minimal damage and in others alot of "running" of colors.
    These fluids might be ok for "white" models, but overall I would have to say that they are not suitible for anything with printed color. I know that, like I said, they are dry "cleaning" fluids and they are made to get stains out, but I thought maybe it was worth a try, but NO.
    They did however unjoin the glued surfaces very quickly. Anyway I did my best, but thats not the remedy for this type problem.


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