Discussion in 'Gallery & Designs' started by kooklik, Feb 7, 2007.
More interesting and detailed than a Halinski kit....
This is just coming out marvelously. Such detail! And your coloring so far is superb! Are you planning to get this published commerically? (Sorry if it's been covered already in the thread).
Hi Rick and John
Thanks for your kind comments. Yes,I'll release in *.pdf format on CD , but not soon. There's still more pages to be colored.
The kit contains with
967 pcs in 29 pages of parts , 11 pages of assembly instruction and 3 pages of drawings. (All A4 size format)
Both colored and non-colored version are provided in the kit.
---- kooklik ----
I am ignorant. How difficult is it to change limber holes and markings on the sail? Each UBoat was, in a sense, hand-built. When it returned from a war partrol, it would be refit (repaired and modified) according to the desires of the UBoat Commander, who was considered (almost) a God by the German people and the Naval High Command.
The number of limber holes were often increased to make the sub dive more quickly. Camoflage schemes evolved to meet the increasingly sophisticated ASW threat of the Allies. Of course, each Sub had the unique markings of its parent Squadron and the personal tastes of the Commander. As a sub returned from each war patrol, particularly during the "Happy Time" when U-Boats operated virtually unmolested off the Eastern Coast of the US, its crew would paint new kill markings on the sail of the sub.
Towards the end of the war, when teak decking was more difficult to procure, U-Boats used more steel decking and less teak.
So, how hard is it to produce those kinds of changes with the program you are using? If it's easy, you are going to be able to sell a "boatload" of U-Boat models!!!
Good news about the uncolored scheme. That means that printed on heavy paper, I/other builders could paint it whatever camo if we want some sub for a specific reason like interest in that sub, family member served on it, prestigous service record, etc.
Really impressive, bet you could fetch a king's ransome for it.
If i send cofee, will it be done faster?
Thanks for your suggestions and questions. Some Q i don't understand well (cause my poor English).
I don't understand the meaning of Limber Holes. Did you mean these holes ?
It's easy to edit on *.pdf or photoshop. Even markings you can open original on CD (*.pdf) and edit by photo editing applications. There're many varients schemes of Type VIIC. I may provide the a few most common sign marks for the options. But the camo , it's rather difficult to edit in 2D. Cuase camo pattern must be done since 3D develop time. It's difficult to add or edit after unrolled to be pieces. This kit the deck floor will be teak , light grey (Hellgrau50-Kriegsmarine Colors)for upper hull and dark grey(Schlickgrau58)for lower hull scheme.
---- kooklik ----
Coffee ? Oh yes please. Not be done faster but you'll have new camo pattern , "Coffee Drop camo !!" :mrgreen::mrgreen:
I was once building a lovely DN Yamato untill it took a broadside from a lovely big cup of coffee....well who knows...sometimes it is good to have a cry
Apology, Kooklik. I forget about your English. But, it is excellent!
You are correct, those are the limber holes.
CAUTION! Do not texture the teak in a wood color. The salt water turns all teak a very dirty grey. I have actually been on the deck of the U505 in Chicago. I can help with the colors if you post an image.
Beautiful work! I admire your creative talent.
I have an idea. NYC Irish's cofee spill(tragic) gave me an unusually good idea. What if there was a coating that could be sprayed on (flat, satin, semigloss, or gloss depending on desired finish) that repelled dust and liquids. And cdavenport is correct about the dark grey teak, ive seen uboats with the same dirty wood. It sohuld look something like this http://static.dailycandy.com/content/articles/24853/photo.jpg
not perfect, but since yer weathering the rest of the boat, may as well weather the wood.
Gainer, surely you jest! You must know that you can actually waterproof any card model with correct and judicious amounts of an appropriate varnish, VOC, acrylic, or polyurethane. For our purposes, any clear acrylic finish will completely seal the card as long as one applies enough coats.
There used to be a model ship combat club whose sole purpose was to build and destroy in actual on-the-water combat wooden replicas of famous cruisers, battleships, etc. These guys were fabulous maniacs! They designed CO2-powered cannons, firing BBs. The sides of the ships were covered in paper, sealed and painted. Of course, the point is that the sealed paper would repel water indefinitely but the paper would give way under the onslaught of the CO2 cannons!
I wish I could have seen one of these naval jousts in person.
Well, thanks fer the info. You like foiling my ideas, don't you? Oh well, shoulda known an idea like that should have been thought of already.
Great !! And very thanks for the teak coloring advise. I still have no idea of teak coloring. I have some pics of U-505 in displayed museum in Chicago. But those are so dark. So I can't see real teak color is. I'll post my teak coloring and please give comments.
---- kooklik ----
Shamelessly stolen from a couple of ship researchers:thumb:
this is a question regarding color of the
: decks of our ship models. I will say
: that all newly laid (Teak)wood deck has the
: yellow/brown colors. dependant on type of teak
: & where supplied from! Different varieties different shades
: But as today wood decks exposed to harsh sun
: and salt water over time become more and
: more light gray (Teak sometimes silvergray).
: Take a walk at your nearest yacht club and
: look at the boats decks
I have used this chaps advice for more yrs than I care to remember, he was a member of a German sub crew who "invaded" sth Oz in 1944
Hi cdavenport and Gainer
and Happy new year to all
I finished hulls coloring. Now starting on deck. I painted some samples of Teak. Please give me some opinions.
Which one is closest to U-505 deck ?
---- kooklik ----
More pics for better compare.
Number starts from left to right.
Number 2 and 3 are probably the best for a boat that has been in service, but the others are good for new boats. Very nicely done artwork, were all still looking forward to the day you release this masterpiece to us.
Frank in Tampa :thumb:
"Maintaineth thy airspeed lest the ground come up and smite thee"
Hi to All
Thanks for all waiting. I'm still here working for preparing the kit. And soon it will be available. The kit contained with 3 versions
2. Basic grey
3. Grey with weathing
and 11 pages of 3d graphic softeware generated assembly instruction. Plus 2D , 3D drawing of the boat.
Now we are preparing online shop for your ordering. It will be finished soon.
And here is a sample of assembly instruction.
---- kooklik ----
Great work, kooklik! :thumb:
Cant't wait to get my hands on it!
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