Groan.....it's a tough life, but someone has to do it. Eat a crab for me, Ted. I am using 3M brand multipurpose transparency film, part number CG6000. My guess is that any name brand inkjet film will work as well. It is a bit pricy compared to paper (package of 100 figures out to nearly 50 cents per sheet), but very cheap compared to photoetch. I've also found that, if I didn't print the entire sheet, I can trim off the unused partial sheet and run it through the printer a second time. I am using an Epson Photo 820 using generic ink cartridges (in other words, no extra-hootie-special printer), and am getting good, crisp copy. The film makes nice, tight bends without splitting, and it holds shape well after it's formed. I use superglue to apply it to the model (again, I cheat and use a superglue brand that has a brush applicator bottle....kind of like nail polish, come to think of it). I carefully tack the piece in place, and then brush on as small an amount of glue as possible onto the full length of the join. I try to touch the brush against the paper rather than the film, and let the glue be "sucked" into the joint by capillary action. That is the theory, anyway....my hands are not quite as steady as they once were, so plenty enough glue winds up on the film. It is apparent it's there on close inspection, but does no craze the film like plastic glues would, and is transparent enough that it is not really noticible from normal viewing distance. Anyhow, I figure if the film is good enough for JSC, it is OK with me. Another big advantage is that you can draw up "custom fit" stanchion spacings, and can depict "drooping" chain across gangway openings, etc. I"m even planning on using it to depict the anchor chain on this build.