Troop sleeper conversions

Discussion in 'Scratchin' & Bashin'' started by absnut, Jul 15, 2003.

  1. absnut

    absnut Member

    Last year, when there were only rumors and speculation after MT's release of Allied trucks, there was some discussion on the forum about the possibilities of either scratch-building or (hopefully) kit-bashing some of the post-war equipment some railroads built using retired troop sleepers. It was suggested to me that by the time I got one scratch-built, MT would have released a troop sleeper and, of course, the suggestion was correct! Now that I have troop sleepers in hand, I am eager to get started bashing a Bangor and Aroostook "buggy" and have been planning and thinking the project through but I am hung-up on "blanking out" windows. Just painting over the clear plastic inserts doesn't look like it will be satisfactory. Therefore, a question: have any of you out there begun a bashing project with these cars and, if so, what method did you use to plug the unwanted window openings? I eagerly await your responses.

  2. jon-monon

    jon-monon Active Member

    Dick - haven't tried it, but I know what you're trying to do. I would try to cut thin styrene to fill the gap (indentation) as close as possible, then use putty to level it hte rest of the way and snad it smooth. I've used "spot putty" or "glazing compound" which is like auto body bondo, but you don't mix it, it quickly air dries and sands easily. It's made as a sort of top coat to bondo to fill in tiny air bubbles, sanding marks and the likes.
  3. sumpter250

    sumpter250 multiscale modelbuilder

    Sorry Jon, I can't resist........

    Snadding, it's how you make Eoads less edgy! :eek:
    :) :) :) Pete
  4. Russ Bellinis

    Russ Bellinis Active Member

    I've never seen pics of any of the prototypes with the windows blanked out after the war, but I am wondering if the railroads went to a lot of trouble to hide the fact that the cars had windows? I've seen pics of cabooses that had windows blanked out with sheet metal, and they just fitted sheet metal where the glass was. You could still see the outline of the window's shape.
  5. billk

    billk Active Member

    In which case, just painting over the windows would be OK for the model, right? No snading required.
  6. shaygetz

    shaygetz Active Member

    Many times they didn't bother to hide the blanked over windows, check your prototype. I don't beleive the company brass would have tolerated painted out windows except on MOW equipment. Even the most shoestring of companies took pride in their passenger fleets. The thinnest styrene or shim brass would do the trick, and no "snadding" required.
  7. billk

    billk Active Member

    My points (if you disregard the "snading" comment) was, yes, you could replace the windows with styrene or something, and paint the styrene, or just paint the windows. If it's painted, who knows what's underneath (except for the Shadow, of course)?
  8. jon-monon

    jon-monon Active Member

    Yuo gyus aer juts plian maen nad hte snadman si nto goign ot brign yuo yuor bozo cookie!:D :D :D
  9. absnut

    absnut Member

    Thanks for all your input, I appreciate the interest. I considered just painting out the unwanted windows but, the clear plastic insert does not come out flush with the car sides. Also, there is noticeable "space" between the "glass" and the window frame.Simply plating over the opening won't work for this model as the BAR recessed the plating so that it was flush with the car sides. I will ponder all the suggestions I've received and experiment to see what works best (and is fairly easy). I will not be put off by difficulties :) There are no problems..... there are only solutions!!! Here is the item I wish to model only I will paint mine in an earlier scheme.


    Attached Files:

  10. sumpter250

    sumpter250 multiscale modelbuilder

    Not sure what the Troop sleeper kit looks like, but Evergreen .005 styrene might be usable for the blanking plates. The bay windows will be fun too.
    I'll have to check out my old color slides, I might have a picture of one of those, that I took while on the 1968 fan trip on the BAR.\
    That was "before lawyers", and we rode on folding chairs in open gondolas, with a GP9 pulling. Got a couple of nice shots at the Derby shops.
  11. 60103

    60103 Pooh Bah

    Dick: if you have some window "glass" in place, you might use your favourite body putty to level everything up, then snad.
  12. shaygetz

    shaygetz Active Member

    I love that bay window, you jus' gotta perservere so we can see how it comes out.
  13. absnut

    absnut Member

    David, I have some of that Squadron Green putty (white too) and that was one of my original thoughts......... or even trying to fill in the entire opening with it. But, I dismissed it out of hand because, (1.) experience has shown me that I do not work well with the stuff, and (2.) I would be quite concerned about "snading" off the fine rivet detail that surrounds the windows. I have had several fine suggestions, including yours, and I will just have to experiment until I find one that works for me (or I can work). Hopefully, I won't ruin any shells in the process.

  14. Keith 55

    Keith 55 New Member

    Absnut, get yourself a MP or BM caboose for $3-$4 and practice on that-I'm blanking windows to make an SP RR Police bay window caboose and practiced the tape/epoxy method on a spare-waiting for the epoxy to cure right now. Keith
  15. Dick;

    I'm surprised that no one has mentioned the May 2003 Issue of Railroad Model Craftsman; on p. 80 of that issue there begins an article titled "Kitbashing a Bangor & Aroostook Caboose". This is for an HO model but you may find some very useful tips and photos...

    Jim Harr :cool:
  16. Russ Bellinis

    Russ Bellinis Active Member

    I just had an idea that might work for you. Get some machinists blue layout dye, and put a coat around the windows that you want to fill in. Then put a piece of plain white paper against the windows, and the bluing will transfer the outline of the windows to the paper. If you then cut out the windows in the paper, you will have a pattern to cut "sheet metal" window plugs out of thin styrene sheet. If you make the plugs close enough to the right size, you should be able to plug the windows just like the prototype did.
  17. philip

    philip Guest

    no snanding required

    preserve those rivets!!! Try this stuff sanding required.......smooth out with wet finger or wet cloth ..... sets up rock hard in about 6 hours. :)

    Attached Files:

  18. Blake

    Blake Member

    Also try some products by Aves. They have some great stuff. Their Apoxie Sculpt (Apoxie is their name brand) is about the best epoxie putty I've expeirienced. It's non-toxic and has very fine grain. The Milliput is good stuff too but it has talc in it which makes it a bit gritty.

    Aves Studios
  19. absnut

    absnut Member

    Thanks, Jim.....

    I have that issue and I have been "studying" it for a couple of months. A lot of the construction methods will work well in N scale.

  20. rich maiorano

    rich maiorano Member

    hey Dick got one of the cabosses think its MP you can have to practice on got two of them cars at my LHS waiting to next week too.......good luck and hope you are feeling better to :eek: :eek: :eek: :D :D :D :D Rich

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