Treating paper

Discussion in 'Tips, Tutorials & Tools' started by GT5500, May 19, 2006.

  1. GT5500

    GT5500 Member

    Hi guys I have now started building a few models but I have noticed that the printed sheets turn green if the white glue touches them. I have heard some members talking of spraying the sheets first but what do you use? keep in mind that I am in the UK so I may not have heard of some of you brand names. And once the model is finished can I just spray it with a model matte coat like you would a plastic kit to enhance the finish?
  2. jasco

    jasco Member

    Welcome to the incredibly addicting world of cardmodelling. I use a product called Krylon spray fixative. It helps protect the ink from the ravages of water. (I tend to drool whilst I work!) After the model is built, or as it progresses I finish each sub-assembly with with acrylic matte varnish found in craft stores. It's not my favorite, but I haven't found my favorite yet. For a final topcoat I have tried water-based spray varnish straight from the spray can, but the varnish does not atomize very well and I get a rough surface. I'm going to try an airbrush should the glorious day come when I actually finish a model! 8^)
  3. Hueydriver

    Hueydriver New Member

    I'm building some 50's era aircraft that have the natural aluminum finish....will Krylon satin help with the finish? Will it warp the cardstock?

    Thanks all, a great site for us newbies to card modelling.
  4. jasco

    jasco Member

    The best advice I could give you is to do a test build of a wing or something-nothing fancy- and try it! If the wing turns into a pretzel, you're not out much.

    GEEDUBBYA Active Member

    Howdy Huey,

    I dont know if you are "versed" in the use of an airbrush, but, you can achieve some really good results on paper with paint if you use one. The trick is not to apply too much paint and with an airbrush, you are in control of how much paint you actually spray. Always start with a very light coat....a dusting even, just remember you can always add more paint on following coats but you cant remove too much. And we all have a good idea of what too much of anything liquid will do to paper.
    Testors makes a nice inexpensive airbrush, I have two of them along with my more expensive ones. I use the testors and my other airbrushes for camoflauging rifles and shotguns for ppl I work with and ppl around town that enjoy hunting. The testors airbrushes are comparible to the more expensive ones in most applications.
    I think that you could "metalize" an entire model with an airbrush w/o any real trouble as long as you remember "less is more".

    Hope this helps, have a good day,

    Greg aka GW

    Testors Aztek A270 Airbrush Set with Propellant - A2706
  6. Hans Christian

    Hans Christian Active Member

    Most plastic model paints go well with cardboard, I've benn juggling plastic & card building for years and not experiencing any glitches...

    As for glue, I rarely use white glue, I usually use super glue, makes assembly faster, adds more strength & doesn't mess up the ink
  7. Fishcarver

    Fishcarver Active Member

    Krylon is Good!

    Krylon Spray fixative, or Grumbacher Tuffilm is what I use, )although you have to watch the fumes). Krylon now has a lo-odour acrylic- based? fixative called Preserv_It which also works well.
  8. Hueydriver

    Hueydriver New Member

    Thanks Epson 820 gives a reasonable aluminum color, but a bit flat. Did an initial spray of a test sheet with good results. Will see on a finished model (McDonnell XF-85 Goblin parasite fighter). And while I'm here, any readers know of a good UH-1D model in card....i.e. with clear windscreen?
  9. rickstef

    rickstef Guest

    Well, not exactly.

    Nobi has an excellent D model Huey, as does CFM, but as for a D model with a cockpit and interior, you will need to look at Fly Model's UH-1 (I think it is a B model)

    plus Aaron Murphy, of FA-61 Fame, is working on a B model Huey for Fiddlers Green.

    Resident Helo model Nut

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