Bachmann has really upgraded their basic line and dropped what used to be the basic line of trains. What is standard now is what used to be Bachmann+. They offer decoder equipped locomotives now for under $30.00, I think. You want to buy quality rolling stock, Athearn, MDC, Atlas, Accurail. Athearn and Accurail make the easiest kits. The kits are a bit less expensive than ready to run. MDC isn't bad, but they use diecast underframes that need to be painted black and need flash trimmed off. Buy cars with body mounted couplers. All of the cars I mentioned have body mounted couplers. Cars wth body mounted couplers can be backed easily through switches, around curves, etc. The typical train set cars have truck mounted couplers; and, if you try to back through a curve, the coupler will push the car off the track. You will need a good powerpack/throttle, or dcc. You can get a good throttle for under $50.00, I think basic dcc set ups come in at around $100.00-$150.00. The advantage of dcc, is you can program an address into the decoder of a locomotive, and then assign a throttle to that locomotive. That way you can run one train independent of others on the layout. If you get a locomotive with the decoder installed, and don't have dcc, they will run on dc. The decoder looks for dcc on the rails and if it doesn't see the dcc signal, it defaults to dc. If you are only going to have or run one train, dc is fine. If you are going to design a layout that will allow the running of two or more trains at the same time, dcc is really the best way to go. I would also reccomend flex track. It comes in 3 foot lengths, and you can bend your own curves into it as you put it down. If you get cork roadbed to lay the track on, it will quiet things down a bit. I take a wooden yard stick and drill a hole right at the 1 inch mark to provide clearance for a drywall screw. I then drill holes at any radius I want to run up to 35 inches. Remember that because the pivot hole is at 1 inch, you have to add 1 inch to each measurement, ie-18 inch radius is at the 19 inch mark. I screw the drywall screw into the plywood at the curve center, and use a pencil through the hole at the correct radius to trace out my curves. The cork roadbed comes in precut pieces that are split in the center. If you split it apart, you get the tapered shoulders for the ballast. I you lay 1/2 piece of cork down on a curve with the radius line along the vertical edge, and the tapered edge to the outside. Then put the other half of the cork against the first half, the center line of the cork will correspond to where the center line of the track should be. It is easier to do than it is to write instructions. If you get started, and have questions, just put up a post here, and we'll chime in and help you out.