TR-1 Hazel Gundam: Final Guide

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-TR-1 HAZEL GUNDAM GUIDE
By: ******* ********* -Soaring-
Log 1-
Alright, so this is the FINAL time I will make a guide for TR-1 Hazel. I never really did finish one...But I promise, this one for sure! So please, be patient with me,ideas, helpful tips, and addons would be a great help to this. Like my previous failed guides, I'll hopefully go into AS MUCH DETAIL as I possibly can. I'd also really appreciate it if at least one person participates and follows the guide by posting pictures of their own WIP. Just anyone from the crowd.....

To start off, let's cover what you should get for this Model.
Materials:
-Loctite Super Glue Gel Control (3)
-Loctite Super Glue Gel Control Gel Squeeze (2)
--------------------Total Glue Amount: Estimating 13 Dollars
-20-40 pages of Cardstock
--------------------Total Cardstock Amount: Estimating:2-3 Dollars
Colored, Black Ink (2)
--------------------Total Ink Amount Estimating: 80 Dollars
Toothpicks
Cutting Mat
Scissors
X-acto
needle
Plastic Baggy
SMILEY CUBE!
--------------------Total depending on Brands, 15 Dollars
Soft Cutting mat (Pricless)
Time : 2 hours a day (Pricless)
Total amount which will be used: 111 Dollars give or take a few.
Now remember, you can still reuse most of the materials, so you won't be going into a waste. Plus, you'll end up with a FANTASTIC Model in which you can pose and display!
Programs:
Pepakura
Pepakura Designer
Paint.NET
Pepakura for viewing, pepkura designer for fitting your needs, and Paint.NET for when I -Hopefully get his permission- To release the joints.

In Conclusion: Expect in the next posts to basically be numerous paragraphs upon paragraphs, and mostly posts made by me. I'll try my best to reword my context to fit everyone's needs so this can be understandable. I hope you have a wonderful time, and enjoy the guide.

 

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Log 2

Log 2-
Gathering the Materials
Alright, so the attachment below shows you what your desk or workplace should look like along with the materials placed onto it. In the next posts I'll make sure to go over those materials and their uses, and what each one should be used on.

So, let's get cracking! If you don't have the materials here, grab a little pencil and paper, list the ones following these posts, and go down to the store! What are you waiting for?

 

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Log 3

Log 3
Gathering the Materials
-First Glue, Needle-

Loctite Super Glue Gel Control
Why? Well, this will be great for small areas in which there will be MANY in this Gundam. It'll clog up a few times, so you'll need to keep caping that glue after you use it. Use a sharp object and pierce the nozzle if glue starts to "Crust" Around the nozzle. This costs, at Target, at the STORE $2.69. Preety expensive, but it's worth your money...

Needle
Why? Well, first of all, you'll need this for 'clogage'.
Aka, Clog. The Loctite Glue tends to clog up after a while if you don't cap it and or smeaer it with the nozzle. And TRUST ME, you will do it and you won't even know it.
Also, you'll need it when piercing the JOINTS.
Yes, it gives you a sort of marker when you have to actually cut the hole with your X-acto knife.

Go get these things and come back for the rest!

 

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Log 4

Log 4
Finish Gathering the Materials
-Scissors,X-acto, Glue Squeeze, Cardstock, Rag-

Scissors
Preferably, for all those who can't handle the X-acto, like I, I would say use the scissors.
Why? Well, this way you get more grip and can hold the Model without accidentally cutting off the edges. Again, this is optional.

X-acto
Prefereably, for all those who CAN hande the X-acto knife, go ahead, by all means, use it. But that means you'll also need a RULER.
Ruler- For Lining up the X-acto Knife's path.
Why? Well, obviosuly with the X-acto knife you want professional cuts, so you'll need something to keep your cuts going STRAIGHT. Again, the X-acto knife is Optional, it all depends are what you're most comfortable with.

Glue Squeeze, Loctite Super Glue Control Gel
I know, I know, why would anyone use this when you have a bottle already?
WHY?
Well, this one is Special! It doesn't clog up, however, excess glue does form around the nozzle...But it does not affect the glue's performance. Each time, all you need to do is give this a Teensy weensy squeeze. Let's put some emphasis on that. All you have to do is give a TEENSY, WEENSY, SQUEEZE, every time. Plus, this'll be alot of help when you're doing long tabs....

Cardstock
Obviously, you'll need this for your model because....WHERE ELSE WILL YOUR MODEL BE PRINTED ON?
I highly suggest, White Cardstock from Staples,v 67 lb, and 148 grams.
Rag
Well, you'll see why.
Why?
For joints.

 

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Log 5

Log 5
Finish Gathering those Materials
Part 2- Toothpicks, Time, Cutting mat, Plastic Baggy
Smiley Cube
Toothpick
You'll need this for several things...
Why?
Well, you'll need to wipe off excess glue, and what better way than to use toothpicks? Also, when building those nasty joints you'll need this as well...You'll see...

Time
WHY?
Well...How else are you going to make you model? You need a smidge of time for this thing. Preferablly, I would suggest at LEAST 2 hours of this each day. I've estimated and measured this time before, and each pag consists of at the most, 2 hours to build. 6 pieces only... However, you may go faster than me...

Cutting Mat
WHY?
You need somewhere to use that X-acto knife. Also, it's nice for some quick measurements, and, hopefully it'll designate an area in which you'll remember. NEVER BRING LIQUIDS NEAR THE MODELING AREA. Also, make SURE to keep those Tissues with you. It is allery season, and you don't want a greeny surprise to detail your model...

Plastic Baggy
WHY?
Well, you'll need a place where you can keep your finished pieces without them getting destroyed by natural disasters of an everyday Cardmodeler. Aka, Water, Glue spills, Etc. However, for extensive protection, use a container. I know most of you have kids, so you may rerally need that container :thumb:

SMILEY CUBE!
WHY?
You may be asking yourself...why not a different cube? Well, like the description says, this cube is uplifting! So USE THE SMILEY CUBE.
Dowload link is here: http://forum.zealot.com/downloads.php?do=file&id=44

 

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Log 6

Gathering the Modeling Programs

What you'll need:
-Pepakura
-Pepakura Designer
-Paint.NET
The download links for each are followed below...

Here you can get both pepakura and pepakura designer. No, I'm not asking you to buy it, just get the free versions.
Pepakura Designer

As for Paint.NET, you'll need this when customizing your own joints and cylinders. Here you can test out which one fits the model, and your own needs.
Paint.NET

All these downloads are FREE.

 

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Log 7: Starting the Project

Log 7: Starting the Project
Pepakura Model: Page (Foot)
Alright, so let's start off by opening up pepakura. Oh! That reminds me, here's the download link to the pdo file of Hazel Gundam.
papercraft
Scroll all the way down until you see Hazel Gundam. Click it, and save the file. Wait for the download to finish, then procede in opening the PEPAKURA FILE. there'll be the JPG files, but only use the PEPAKURA FILE.
Why?
Well, this guide is basically focuse ON the pepakura file, however, if you wish to use the more decaled, but low resolution JPG's that's fine. Just apply these instructions to your build.
So: After you've opened up the file, locate the page with the foot. NO. Do not print out the page of the foot that is scrambled. I'll instruct you on what to do with that later.....
To print, count the number of pages there are pieces of the model on them. Locate the page in which the unscrambled foot is. Click print, and arrange the retype the page number in it. This all depends on how your printer menu looks. After, get ready for some modeling.

 

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Log 8: Let's model!

Well this sucks. I tried to upload 6 images and 5 paragraphs
-.- No way Am I going to retype what I just did. I'm sorry guys, but this'll be divided into 2 parts.

 

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Great...So now it shows up....Sorry, I'll redo the descriptions...

 

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Log 8: Let's model! Part 1

I'm sorry, but it won't upload large descriptions :cry:
So, let's put the printed foot aside for now.

 

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Log 8: Let's model! Part 2

Alright, I think the problem is too many links. So lets continue with the guide. Set aside the first page of HAzel, the foot into your baggy, and place that in a safe place. If you scroll back up to Log 5, you'll be able to find the link to the Smiley Cube. Click it, download it, and print it.

 

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Hold up! I think there should be some music while modeling. So I suggest These two links: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5P8C5gkd4CE&feature=related

 

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Log 8: Let's model! Music

Music for modeling: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iU_LtRDtlms&feature=related

 

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Log 8: Let's model! Part 2

Looks like I can't post more links...Sigh.
So, set your Hazel foot into the plastic baggy, and set it in a good palce away from 'Bad things'. Go back to Log 5 and download the Smiley Cube.

Succesful Modeling
Step 1: SCORING
Definition (In my opinion) I think scoring means to shave layers of cardstock off of your model to allow easier folds.
So, now, grab your Smiley Cube that you printed, and let's do this!
Why the Smiley Cube? Well, like it says, it's uplifting!
Why the Cube? Well, it provides an assumption of measurement without using a ruler. I think it's simpler.
I suggest, for somethingas such, that you score HARD and FAST. Make sure to use the X-acto knife, I've picked up form Lex, a moderator here, or admin, that a wasted Ball point pen works nice too.
So, to score, follow the valley/mountain lines, and run the blad over it, also go over the tabbed lines.

 

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Log 8: Let's model! Part 2

Step 2:
Alright, so after scoring, let's do some cutting. To cut, you can use either the x-acto knife, or scissors, depending on your comfortable situation and your experience with the object. Cut around the tabs and outlines, in which you should come out with the template for a square.


Step 3:
Next, fold. Since you've already scored the lines, folding should be a cinch. Just give it a little push, and viola, you have a fold! Continue folding until you've folded each valley/mountain/tab line.
Valley/ Mountain Line: The lines inside the template which direct you to fold
Tab line: The lines which direct you to fold outside the superstructure. This guides you when you glue.

STep 4:
Almost there, now use the LOCTITE SUPER GLUE SQUEEZE GEL, give it a little squeeze and meduim sized glue should come spurting out. Apply glue to each tab. After, glue each tab to it's corresponding side. If you didn't get that, just look at the beginning of log 8, where the pictures are!

 

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Log 8: Let's model! Part 2

Step 5:
Toothpicks?!?!?!Of course! This is where they finally come into play. Use the toothpicks to smear any excess glue off the sides of the cube.

Step 6:
Show your friends! Family! And What not! After, lay it down to the side and let's actually begin modeling HAZEL.

Hopefully, this should have been as informative as I couldv'e done so far. I'm going to keep going, I still have..20 pictures worth of descriptions left before I have to start modeling again!

In conclusion: For this entire guide, you will use the same 6 steps.
Score, cut, fold, glue, clean up, and display and put away. The rest of the guide's format will revolve around this. Hope you enjoy the rest of this guide! I'll continue it as soon as I check my bag...

 

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Log 9- Hazel's Foot

Alright, so set your cube off to the side, take a deep breath, and let's grab that plastic baggy! Open it up and grab your Hazel Foot page out.
What you should start off with-

In modeling this foot, you should begin with the Blue piece which the X-acto knife is pointing to.
Why? Well, this piece is the beginning of your model, it's what it stands on. So let's do that first.

Step 1: Using your X-acto knife, score LIGHTLY on every section of the model. This means score lightly on the Valley/mountain Lines, and even the Tabbed ones. To see what I mean, view the second attachment in this post, and look at it very carefully. You can practically, see no line that left a scored mark. This is what you want for this section.
Why? Well, If you compared this finished foot to the Hazel I'm currently working on, you'd see the major difference. There's a white line producing after you fold a mountain or valley line IF you scored it too hard. Otherwise, if scored lightly, it'll come out with most of the color still on it.

The first image points to a Valley/mountain fold line.
The Second image points to another Valley/Mountain Line.
The Third image points to a tabbed line.

 

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Log 9- Hazel's Foot

Step 2: Cut the piece out of the paper. What does this mena? Exactly? View the attachment shown in this log.

Semi Step: After removing the foot piece from the rest,finish scoring the piece, and you should have scored lines end up like image 2.

 

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Log 9- Hazel's Foot

Step 3: Cut.
Like before, cut around the piece, using the outlines of tabs and sides for guides. Your ending mark should end up like the image shown in this piece of Log 9.

 

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Log 9- Hazel's Foot

Step 4: Fold.

Not really much description I can really can go into here, but just fold what you scored. Use the lines , in which you scored, I should say. You should end up with an object much like the one shown in the attachment. Here, the Smiley Cube! Is used to portray an assumption of size upon your mind.